Does it work with another photo? That would at least isolate the problem to being the photo or ON1.

I generally sell 11X14 on 16X20 mat for $60. For reference, 5X7 on 8X10 is $20; 8X10 on 11X14 is $40.

After looking at other photography booths, this seems to be the general price. If you have a following, and some stunning photography, you can command much more, but these are prices the average person is willing to pay. Don't get your hopes too high, though. Sorry!

I think it would work. You need to work out a way to totally stop light from the projector and somehow control the exposure on the paper. My last foray into color darkroom used paper that required a few seconds to expose, but not more than 10. And because it was color paper (if I remember correctly from over 40 years ago) you could not have a "safelight" as in the black & white dark room. That means that the projector, which needs to be ventilated and spews light out from more than just the lens, would have to be some how "outside" the room.

I think it is doable, but will be a challenge. Let us know how it works out!

With PS, I think the best way would be to select the bird, nest, etc, and make sure the selection does not include the white fringe. Put the selection on a different background.

I believe the problem is that the image is over sharpened.
Is this straight out of camera? If so, you might be shooting with a setting (vivid for example) that "enhances " the subject. If it was shot raw, maybe start over and let us know what actions you took in Adobe Camera Raw to get to this point.

In Lightroom, you MIGHT be able to use the brush to just affect that fringe (make it very tiny and spend a lot of time making sure you don't affect the sky or subject). Start with decreasing the highlights slider if you take that route - I don't think it will be effective though.

Outdoor Photographer - Geared to the landscape - wild life photographer, so existing light is mostly what it is about. It recently ran a 3 part series called "The Art of Seeing" by Marc Muench - one of the best discussions of photography I have read, covering composition, contrast and color, exposure, and more.
It is one of the few magazines I look through the moment it arrives.

It won't give you sharper photos by default. Focused is focused. However, what it will do is lock the focus on the place you choose as the focus point (eyes of a person or animal, for example) and will not change when you press the release. By THAT reasoning, it will give sharper pictures.

The problem with letting the camera focus when you depress the shutter release is that it makes the decision where to focus, and it is not always the best choice. BBF lets you decide, and does not let the camera change it by itself.

That said, I often go back to regular focus (and pay attention to what the camera is choosing before releasing). Street photography, events, rapidly changing action scenes, etc., sometimes require other focus methods. Check if your camera has continuous focus, tracking continuous focus, etc. There are times one of those would be more appropriate.

As for setup - Google "Set back button focus on <your camera brand and model goes here>". It is not really a setting on most cameras, just a way of moving the function from the shutter release to a separate button. That is to say - there is not a menu setting for "Back Button Focus", at least not on many brands.

Pixels determine resolution, so in that sense, no. More pixels = more resolution.

If you are concerned about noise in the image, the larger sensors will have an advantage. However, the crop sensors are getting better all the time. I have an image I shot with my EM1-MII using auto-ISO. I didn't realize until I looked at the Exif info that the camera had bumped it up to ISO 6400. Nothing in the image clued me that it was shot at that speed!

So, in a nutshell, NO - not a reduction in image quality (check out my website for photos shot with 4/3 cameras www rond-photography.smugmug.com). I am pretty confident that there is no loss of quality.

I bought a lens on E-bay that had a small spider (dead) inside. It was a film lens, Olympus 50/1.4 and cheap, plus I did not notice it right away. Googled "stuff inside a lens" and lived with it. It didn't seem to be noticeable in the photos. Eventually I disassembled it and cleaned it. Not noticeably better. As you say, it focuses out.

I have LR put all imports into the sub-folder "Lightroom" in my "Pictures" folder. Upon import, LR creates a sub-folder there that is the year, and then further sub-divides to put the import into a folder named for the month, day, year (for example: pictures/Lightroom/2019/2019-06-09) If I shoot for a client and want to easily find their photos, I can rename it - WITHIN LIGHROOM - and it will be easy to find. I don't always remember the year I took certain photos, but I can usually figure it out (and then rename the folder if I think I will be revisiting it). Adding keywords also is helpful, but that requires planning and organization...

Put a little blue thread locker (not the red stuff) on the screw. I have heard a few others make the same complaint. Must be the newer screws? I have had the plates on both of my cameras for several years now and no loosening. I have the larger (square) plate. Maybe the newer plate (I believe it is smaller and rectangular) rotates and loosens the screw?

In the Library tab of Lightroom, click "Find" (or just hit the Ctrl and F keys at the same time). On the upper right of the thumbnail panel you will get a search box. Type in the file name and see it.
Also, if you have done any other imports since the missing one, click the "Previous Import" label above the film strip at the lower left of the screen. Choose "All Photographs". You might just not see it because you are looking at the current import.

Peak Design. Made of seat belt material. Quick detach. Arca Swiss plate used to attach lets you put camera on a tripod without removing anything. The wide strap over only one shoulder instead of around neck is all day comfortable.

In Lightroom, I click on the "Masking" slider in the Sharpening section.
Hold down the Alt. The image will change to all white.
Drag to right until only areas you don't want sharpened (sky, shadows, areas with no detail) are dark.
The amount will vary between photos, but you will also be learning what they mean when they say "Unsharp mask". Hmmm. Was going to add a screen shot, but not getting the attachment choice at bottom of this reply. Sorry.

Take a step back and relax. All digital cameras have a zillion bells and whistles. That doesn't mean we need to blow and ring them (or even understand all of them).

You already probably know how to get good photos if you were using an SLR 40 years ago - they didn't do much automatically back then (and only if you went for the more advanced models).

Shutter speed, aperture, and ISO are the basics, as they were in the film days.
In the menus (or more likely a button) you will need to understand auto focus, so concentrate on that before worrying about "focus stacking", "live composite", "art filters", or any other "nice to have, but not actually required" feature. Don't worry that you paid for these features and you wasted money if you don't use them!

Once you have gotten comfortable with the camera and start getting consistently good photos, you can start wondering how you might do more. The problem with menus (or Help on a computer) is that you have to know what question to ask before you can search for the answer. The technology has come a long way in the last 20 years. There are features that could not have existed in the film world, and did not exist in the digital world until recently. For example, how do you find out how to use "Focus Stacking" in a camera if you don't even know it is called that?

Go slow. When you hear about a feature, and it makes sense to you and you think it would be useful (not all of them are for everyone), concentrate on that feature and learn it.

I had my first digital camera for over a year (an all in one) before I realized it worked exactly like my old Canon AT-1 film camera. Low and behold, I started getting better shots because I didn't just let the camera decide all the settings. I still don't spend very much time in the menus, and over time I have picked up enough that the menus do become more intuitive (because my knowledge of digital has expanded).

If you need a starting point to learn in the menus, learn about the AF settings, set up "Focus Peaking" (a great help in manual focusing), and become familiar with metering modes (probably a 5 to 10 minute thing - not rocket science). Then shoot and play. I have not tried most of the features my camera has, nor spent more than 2 hours altogether over the last 5 years in my menus. Olympus OMD-M1 and M1 II, to give you an idea of what menus I am talking about. You can get great photos and not strain your brain over things that will "not be on the exam". Oh! There is no exam! Have fun!