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Posts for: tonyjag
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Jan 3, 2020 15:38:07   #
DWU2 wrote:
Not being an aperture user, can you clarify for me what "Stacks" are? Lightroom has the ability to stack photos, but perhaps we're not talking about the same thing.

Again, I'm not an Aperture user, but I think the Painter Tool (spray can) on the Toolbar in the Grid view is comparable to Lift and Stamp.

There is a control next to the Navigator window which allow you to change the Loupe zoom amount. You can choose it to be 1:16 all the way up to 11:1.


Thanks. Here is a short youtube on Aperture Stacks:
https://youtu.be/t18dRKU7kb8

You are right, LR has a similar "stack" function in the Photos menu. I found some controls for it in a long list of keyboard shortcuts.

I see the spray can and will try it out. I tried the Loupe zoom, as you suggested.

A new question: In Aperture, you can click on an image with "M", to see the original minus any edits. In LR, you can do that via the history panel or the compare function, but is there anything like the click "M" function to get a quick idea of what you have done to the image? I didn't find it in the list of shortcuts.
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Jan 3, 2020 11:03:46   #
Faced with over 10K pix from our recent Antarctica voyage, i decided it is time to move on from good-old Aperture, abandoned by Apple even though it is a 64-bit app. I installed LRClassic 9 on my mid-2014 MacBookPro (OS 10.14.3) and have 3 days left of the 7-day trial. I am getting used to LR and, with help from many YouTube tutorials and posts here on UHH, have found how to do most of the operations as in Aperture. They are different, but mostly equivalent.

The only major problem so far is that LR would crash immediately upon selecting the MAP module. With some very competent on-line help from Adobe, it turned out to be the NVIDIA graphics hardware, so that is now disabled when running LR. Is that going to slow things down much? How long before Adobe fixes this bug?

Here are a few other shortcomings noticed so far:
1. There seems to be no "List" view as in the Aperture Browser.
2. When publishing to Flickr, it seems that you can only put images into the photostream, while Aperture lets you put them in any existing Flickr album or create a new one.
3. LR accepts .mov files, but there seems to be no way to edit them in any way. Aperture allows you to trim movies, often all that is needed.
4. Lift and Stamp is possible in LR, but clunky.
5. There does not appear to be a "Stacks" capability as in Aperture, but I haven't used that in years.
6. The Loupe in LR seems to have much less zoom range than the round one in Aperture.

Any observations, work arounds, or advice will be much appreciated. Thanks and Happy New Year.
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Jan 1, 2020 22:23:03   #
GoofyNewfie wrote:
3mp is not a significant amount at that level.
A pixel-peeper would have a hard time seeing any difference.
If you printed images with 300 ppi resolution from each camera, they would be about 13.3 x 20 vs 12.5 x 18.5 respectively.
So not really difference in image quality. And the dybamic range is about the same between the two cameras.

With the 7500, the OP gains a better viewfinder with a real prism and the ability to use off-camera flash using the pop-up flash as a commander, a feature some people overlook. (We could use a section here which covers flash) Some other improvements: Higher ISO capability, higher frame rate, better weather sealing, longer shutter life and the ability to use older AF lenses, since that focusing screw in question allows that.
3mp is not a significant amount at that level. br ... (show quote)


Agree. The D7500 also has Auto AF Fine Tune, locking mode and shooting dials, 2 control wheels, 2 user settings modes, illuminated top LCD, 2 function buttons, "Quiet" modes, and allows you to set the image file numbers to other than "DSCnnn". It is often compared with the D500, the top crop sensor NIKON DSLR.
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Jan 1, 2020 21:59:10   #
Gspeed wrote:
Flying off on Friday w/my Nikon D610, my 24-70, 18-24 and 28-300. Sydney, Melbourne, Tasmania, Gisborne, Rotura, Auckland and Wauheke Island. Any advice re sights to see or photo advice? It’s an Oceania cruise so daily ports of call, then 4 days in Auckland on our own.


We visited Australia/New Zealand a year ago, with many of the same destinations. I used a D5300 with Tamron 16-300, plus other lenses that hardly got used. Here are some pix:

https://www.flickr.com/photos/tonyjag/collections/72157705201936521/

Have a great voyage!
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Dec 30, 2019 19:17:22   #
NormanTheGr8 wrote:
That would be a Tamron 18-400mm


Same here, on D7500. First backup: Tamron 16-300 on D5300, used by my son. In Antarctica, i never used the Nikon 16-85 and only a few shots with the Nikon F1.8 50mm. For a couple of days, i borrowed a Sigma Contemporary 150-600 lens from the B&H photo locker onboard the Nat Geo Explorer. I got some good shots from the ship, but found myself frustrated by not being able to go wide enough. And it needed a monopod and was too big to take on Zodiacs, where changing lenses is really challenging. There, i just used the 16-400 and can crop as needed. I also took lots of shots, including panos, with my new S10+ phone. There was usually plenty of light, with only a couple hours of relative darkness when stars were not visible.
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Dec 5, 2019 23:54:10   #
I have the same 18-400 Tamron lens, but with Nikon mount. I fine tuned it with the D7500 Auto AF Fine tune, as others have reported above, with mostly good results. I used Steve Perry's YouTube multi-measurement procedure for each of the 24 points that the Tap-In console lets you enter.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5cHhrWF-pqM
That process essentially uses the camera's live view contrast focus, slow but accurate and independent of path differences like the phase detection method, to determine what the focus point should be. Once the values are in the lens, i either set the camera's Auto Fine Tune correction to zero or turn it off. For zoom lenses that don't support Tap-In console or USB Dock, I just set the AF Fine Tune correction as a function of focal length if it varies a lot. Here are details:
https://www.uglyhedgehog.com/t-604962-1.html
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Dec 3, 2019 10:56:21   #
bsprague wrote:
If it were me, I'd buy a larger card or two to store the files you are used to using. Space saving might not be that important.

That said, try Photoshop Elements. The current version advertises HEIF support and there is a Mac version. I'm pretty sure it does all three things on your list. Photoshop Elements has a free trial you can download and if you buy online from Adobe, there is a return policy if it doesn't do what you want.


Thanks. I have installed a 512GB Sandisk Extreme A2 in the S10+, the biggest possible. I agree that space saving may not be that important and certainly want to avoid any risk with trying a new format on this once-in-a-lifetime trip, so will stay with JPEG or JPEG + RAW. Most of shots will be via a Nikon DSLR anyhow. I plan to leave my laptop home and not do any post until i return home. Backup will be done mainly using a NEXTO DI NPS-10 with 2TB internal SSD. For details, see:
https://www.uglyhedgehog.com/t-616895-1.html

I have Elements 2014, used for operations that Aperture can't do. I have read in this forum that Elements is limited to 8-bit encoding, like JPEG.
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Dec 2, 2019 21:29:57   #
I just upgraded from a Samsung Note8 (3 cameras) to an S10+ (5 cameras) as backup to a D7500 and D5300 for a rapidly-approaching trip to Antarctica on the Nat Geo Explorer. In getting familiar with the new S10+, i'm left with a few questions and would appreciate any comments based on your experience.

Background from:https://gadgetguideonline.com/s10/galaxy-s10-camera-settings-explained/
"- Choose to save photos in HEIF (High-Efficiency Image File Format). If enabled, you can save about 20-30% storage without sacrificing the picture quality. The downside is that some sites or devices may not support this format. When sharing such photos through the Gallery app, you can choose to convert them to normal JPEG files.
- Enable RAW file saving in the Pro mode. When using the Galaxy S10 Pro mode, you can choose to save the RAW file (which can be edited with most professional photo editing/processing apps), together with the normal JPEG file"

This is my first camera that supports HEIF. Tony Northrup just posted a YouTube Video called "Kill JPEG", which promotes HEIF. I would like to use JPEG + RAW on some shots as with my Nikon DSLRs.

1. If i save photos in HEIF, is there any app other than "Gallery" mentioned above that converts them to JPEG?
2. Which photo editing programs* for Mac accept HEIF?
3. Which photo editing programs* for Mac accept whatever RAW format (like .NEF) Samsung outputs?

* I still use Aperture, which does not even accept .NEF files from the D7500. I am evaluating alternatives to replace Aperture, as noted in other posts. Ability to handle HEIF and whatever RAW format Samsung uses are additional criteria for selection.

The S10+ has a burst mode which lets you hold the shutter button to take up to 100 images at a very high rate of about 30 per second, to internal storage.
4. Is it possible to select slower rates?
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Nov 14, 2019 00:52:13   #
Strodav wrote:
Have the Nikon version of the Tamron 18-400mm and am happy with it given a few caveats. My lens needed tuning, but once tuned it is sharp over the whole zoom range. The focus ring turns when AF is active, you have to turn off AF on the lens to use manual focus and there is some chromatic aberration and distortion, which are easily corrected in PP. On the other hand, VR works great and the lens is light and compact for its versatility. I especially like it for family vacations when I don't want to take a lot of equipment with me. Enjoy!
Have the Nikon version of the Tamron 18-400mm and ... (show quote)


I agree with your observations, using an 18-400 with my D7500. Another advantage I don't recall seeing in this thread is that it works with the Tamron Tap-In Console. Here is how that worked out, mostly good.
https://www.uglyhedgehog.com/t-604962-1.html
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Nov 12, 2019 19:33:45   #
C. Loren wrote:
I had thousands of photos in Aperture and they all migrated to Photos, (the new Apple photo processor), very easily. They are still in RAW format. I hope that helps.


Thanks. From within Photos, if necessary for some shots, can you use a more capable editor like luminar?
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Nov 11, 2019 12:22:29   #
In-lightened wrote:
I agree with the OP...so important to fine tune. I have yet to see a perfect match with no correction.

And...to that end, I really wish Nikon would get on board like Cannon or with tap-in console as Tamron offers, so there is a way to store multiple focal lengths for a zoom. The nod goes to Tamron in this case for BIF with a zoom for this ability. Rant over.


Sigma offers a similar product called USB Dock. But, as i noted in an earlier post, Tap-In and USB-Dock only work with the lens maker's newer, smarter lenses.

Tap-In and USB-Dock also support lens firmware updates so you don't have to send the lens to NY. I once drove from central MA to central Long Island through NYC to get 3 Sigma lense's firmware updated so they would work with my then-new D5300. Tap-In and USB-Dock also let you set parameters other than AF Fine tuning, like focus limits, how stabilization works, or focus ring sensitivity for lenses so equipped.

I agree that Nikon and other DSLR manufacturers should offer a similar lens update product, but it too would only work on the newer, smarter lenses which have the capability designed in. Given that basic lens performance may have maxed out, perhaps that could be a marketing strategy to sell newer lenses.
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Nov 10, 2019 22:49:55   #
bleirer wrote:
Plus mirrorless is kind of a special case, since there is no mirror path to sensor path mismatch, but some cameras do have fine tune anyway. Some Canons have fine tune in post using DPP because depth data is stored in the raw file. Go figure.


Yep, I don't think you need AF fine tuning with mirrorless because the focus is done in the sensor plane through the same path, so there is inherently no path difference, as you mentioned. Isn't that one of the main advantages of mirrorless?
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Nov 10, 2019 22:06:49   #
Rongnongno wrote:
I find interesting that this rarely if ever mentioned.

... wait for this thread to develop so that folks on UHH who are aware of this can recommend one method vs another.

Note that fine tuning a lens is only a part of good focusing but a critical one.


Are you looking for inputs? Here a link to a thread describing my mostly positive experience with lens calibration using a new D7500, which helps to measure front/back focus corrections but allows for just one correction per lens, and Tamron Tap-In Console, which allows you to store many more corrections IN THE LENS so it will work with different bodies:
https://www.uglyhedgehog.com/t-604962-1.html
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Nov 10, 2019 21:40:05   #
Carl S wrote:
I used Muck Boots, and wore them on the airplane to Ushuai, and noticed that I wasn't alone! They still have the fragrance of penguin poop when they get wet! Knee pads are also nice to have since you will be kneeling frequently. They are cheap and you can throw them away when the trip is over.


Thanks for suggesting vaporub and knee pads, i will definitely pack them. Neither is check-listed in the expedition guide i attached to an earlier post. Harbor Freight has a good selection of inexpensive pads. And it is good to know the poop range of penguins. A Polar Explorer also warned that penguins bite!

Our MIT Alumni tour Lindblad/Nat Geo Explorer expedition coming up in a few weeks provides a custom parka that will be in our cabin along with rental boots and waterproof pants, which i concur we don't want to schlep by air. I have two PeakDesign 10L camera bags, one for each of us. They are claimed to be waterproof and hold a body and several lenses, but i will probably also bring a bigger WP duffel for Zodiac trips, as suggested by many posts here. No tripod, but a monopod for which i made a handle with Manfrotto plate that also serves as a cane or walking stick (see photo). I later saw a similar product advertised somewhere on line.


(Download)
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Nov 10, 2019 20:43:25   #
FotoHog wrote:
Thanks everyone for your comments and suggestions. All of them are greatly appreciated. However, I wondered about some reasons given for carrying two camera bodies. Did any of you ever experience camera failure?....


Yes, a double failure! In 1999, (still the days of 35mm film) we went on an Alaska trip (Rail+Cruise) to celebrate our 30th wedding anniversary. First, my Minolta x570 film advance mechanism failed, causing major angst when i picked up several rolls of blanks from the on-board photo center. Then my Samsung EX-1 backup became erratic, then quit complexly because the flex circuit connecting the zoom lens fractured.

That was well before smartphones with cameras, so we resorted to getting copies from other travelers, postcards, and using disposable cameras until I could buy my first Nikon from a camera shop in Juneau.

BTW, will you be joining us on the Nat Geo Explorer in December?
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