Posts for: bob_71
Jan 3, 2012 11:25:00 #
Very nice butterfly shots! I would certainly like to see more.
Bob
Bob
Jan 3, 2012 11:11:17 #
Challenging category!
Lots of very nice shots.
Bob
Lots of very nice shots.
Bob
Penta, White
Dogwood
Miniature Rose-Simplex
Jan 1, 2012 19:22:18 #
Stopping the total action might yield a rather unnatural appearing capture. Many of the really good "quick bird" photographers that I have observed, usually try for a slight blur of the wings with the rest in sharp focus.
I am attaching three shots of hummingbird moths along with the shooting properties.
The method I try to use is to set the shutter speed at 1/640, shoot in shutter priority and adjust from there. I hope this is of help to you.
Bob
I am attaching three shots of hummingbird moths along with the shooting properties.
The method I try to use is to set the shutter speed at 1/640, shoot in shutter priority and adjust from there. I hope this is of help to you.
Bob
1/640...f/4.0...ISO 100...EV-1/3
1/640...f/4.5...ISO 300...EV -2/3
1/200...f/8.0...ISO 100...W/Flash
Jan 1, 2012 18:26:19 #
Jan 1, 2012 12:49:14 #
Canon 40D
Canon 100mm f/2.8 macro
First:1/60...f/4...ISO 100...-2/3 EV
Second: 1/1,000...f/6.3...ISO 100...-1/3 EV
Third: 1/640...f7.1,,,ISO 100...-1 EV
Thanks for asking!
Bob
Canon 100mm f/2.8 macro
First:1/60...f/4...ISO 100...-2/3 EV
Second: 1/1,000...f/6.3...ISO 100...-1/3 EV
Third: 1/640...f7.1,,,ISO 100...-1 EV
Thanks for asking!
Bob
Jan 1, 2012 12:27:49 #
Gregory, my general advice to you is that your camera is a good one with excellent controls. Getting all the controls set to your style of shooting is, in my opinion, crucial to being able to allow both you and the camera to perform at your best in all situations. In this group of highly acceptable photos there seems to be questions relevant to sharpness and exposure only. At this stage, I wouldn't worry too much about the subjective area of cropping...cropping will not help the exposure nor will it correct soft-focus or motion blur. Once you have the settings on your camera in a "normal" mode for your style and most frequently captured subjects, it is a very small job to "tweak" a setting, or two to compensate.
What works for me, on exposure for my "normal" setting, is ISO @ lowest setting...generally at around 100. I notice that yours was set @ 400 on the second shot. This is enough "increase exposure" adjustment to have caused the overexposure, even at 1/2000. Not that I am necessarily doing it right, but I just replaced a Canon 40D that had over 60,000 shots on it and I would guess that I changed the ISO away from 100 on less than 50 occasions. In addition to the ISO setting at 100, I also use the Exposure Valuation set at -2/3 stops (this is two clicks left of zero). This puts me in a style of shooting known as "shooting dark"' I edit every picture that I save and I always adjust, or at least, consider using LEVELS to control final brightness. This process helps with an enhanced bokeh as well as retains some pixel value in the highlight areas.
As for soft focus, I fight against camera movement by shooting about 95% of my shots with a tripod. I recently purchased a Canon 70-200 f/2.8 IS II. The improved image stabilization on this new lens is a near-miracle and allows for sharply focused hand-held shots. On days with breezes, shooting flowers, insects, etc., I shoot in Aperture mode so I can offset the degree of wind movement with shutter speed and allow
the camera to select the f/stop.
The final adjustments that I use, concern the focusing. I always have my cameras focusing mode set to A1 Servo AF. I always keep the metering on CENTER SPOT. I have tested many times and I can NOT match, nor improve, on my camera's capabilities to focus automatically. The A1 Servo setting will keep the focus accurate even with a moving subject so long as you half-depress the shutter while panning. The final focus is captured when you fully depress the shutter. I use manual focusing only when using a macro lens with a micro positioning plate on the tripod.
Your impeccable selection of subjects is commendable. Your results are
way better than average. You have an excellent camera and once you arrive at your "standard" settings you should be able to create images that you-your most critical patron, will be most pleased with.
Bob
What works for me, on exposure for my "normal" setting, is ISO @ lowest setting...generally at around 100. I notice that yours was set @ 400 on the second shot. This is enough "increase exposure" adjustment to have caused the overexposure, even at 1/2000. Not that I am necessarily doing it right, but I just replaced a Canon 40D that had over 60,000 shots on it and I would guess that I changed the ISO away from 100 on less than 50 occasions. In addition to the ISO setting at 100, I also use the Exposure Valuation set at -2/3 stops (this is two clicks left of zero). This puts me in a style of shooting known as "shooting dark"' I edit every picture that I save and I always adjust, or at least, consider using LEVELS to control final brightness. This process helps with an enhanced bokeh as well as retains some pixel value in the highlight areas.
As for soft focus, I fight against camera movement by shooting about 95% of my shots with a tripod. I recently purchased a Canon 70-200 f/2.8 IS II. The improved image stabilization on this new lens is a near-miracle and allows for sharply focused hand-held shots. On days with breezes, shooting flowers, insects, etc., I shoot in Aperture mode so I can offset the degree of wind movement with shutter speed and allow
the camera to select the f/stop.
The final adjustments that I use, concern the focusing. I always have my cameras focusing mode set to A1 Servo AF. I always keep the metering on CENTER SPOT. I have tested many times and I can NOT match, nor improve, on my camera's capabilities to focus automatically. The A1 Servo setting will keep the focus accurate even with a moving subject so long as you half-depress the shutter while panning. The final focus is captured when you fully depress the shutter. I use manual focusing only when using a macro lens with a micro positioning plate on the tripod.
Your impeccable selection of subjects is commendable. Your results are
way better than average. You have an excellent camera and once you arrive at your "standard" settings you should be able to create images that you-your most critical patron, will be most pleased with.
Bob
Dec 31, 2011 20:52:31 #
These photos were shot from Kure Beach toward the area of the port of Wilmington.
The shafts of sunlight in the first photo are natural...not Photoshop generated.
Bob
The shafts of sunlight in the first photo are natural...not Photoshop generated.
Bob
The two items at lower left are cranes used in shiploading.
Fifteen minutes later.
Three minutes after the second shot
Dec 31, 2011 20:30:49 #
Gregory, what camera body are you using with the Tamron lens? I agree with "tk" that 1/2000 would usually be adequate to stop the action, but the burned out highlights do indicate an overexposure...of course, the exposure culprit could also be the f/stop used.
A shot that is even slightly out-of-focus will appear similar to one that has motion blur. The other two are nice and sharp, so it would suggest to me that you are using manual focus or that your camera is not set to refocus on a moving subject.
The attached photo of a Ring-billed Gull shows a single subject with a full range of black/gray/white.
A shot that is even slightly out-of-focus will appear similar to one that has motion blur. The other two are nice and sharp, so it would suggest to me that you are using manual focus or that your camera is not set to refocus on a moving subject.
The attached photo of a Ring-billed Gull shows a single subject with a full range of black/gray/white.
Ring-billed Gull walking on new ice.
Dec 31, 2011 20:14:18 #
Gregory, what camera body are you using with the Tamron lens? Are you intending to shoot in manual? An exposure that is not in sharp focus will appear similar to motion-blur. I agree with "tk" that 1/2000 should have been adequate to stop the action, though at the f/stop used, it apparently was not enough to get the whites exposure quite right.
Bob
Bob
Ring Billed Gull walking on new ice.
Dec 31, 2011 20:04:04 #
Gregory, what camera body are you using with the Tamron lens? Are you intending to shoot in manual? An exposure that is not in sharp focus will appear similar to motion-blur. I agree with "tk" that 1/2000 should have been adequate to stop the action, though at the f/stop used, it apparently was not enough to get the whites exposure quite right.
Bob
Bob
Dec 31, 2011 19:13:23 #
Dec 31, 2011 12:43:49 #
Up until last year, I have maintained a butterfly garden to attract various butterflies for my meager photographic efforts. I grew nectar plants as well as host plants in about equal numbers. One of my favorites is the Cabbage White Butterfly...the name is earned because the caterpillars of this species are voracious feeders on the plants in the cabbage family. I even grew potted specimens of cabbage for them. I'd like to share a few of their pictures in case some others of you cheer for the underdogs.
Oct 16, 2011 12:13:01 #
Oct 15, 2011 12:52:12 #
Thanks for the shots! Where were you able to find the Malachite?
I have maintained a butterfly garden for the last several years and have enjoyed taking photographs of them. My physical capabilities have waned so I gave them to a friend in southern Virginia who lost his wife earlier this year...he is in the process of creating a memorial garden in her memory,
Here are a couple of my photos to share.
Bob
I have maintained a butterfly garden for the last several years and have enjoyed taking photographs of them. My physical capabilities have waned so I gave them to a friend in southern Virginia who lost his wife earlier this year...he is in the process of creating a memorial garden in her memory,
Here are a couple of my photos to share.
Bob
Eastern Tailed Blue
Fiery Skipper
Monarch, male
Oct 13, 2011 11:32:39 #
MJL wrote:
Favil Lake in northern Wisconsin
Nice country...beautiful picture!
Bob