It works on my Nikon D7100.

It depends on the camera you are using too. If it is a cropped sensor camera you need to multiply the focal length by the crop factor of the camera. For Nikon the crop factor is 1.5x and for Canon it is 1.6x. So for example with a cropped sensor Nikon and a 70-200mm lens you would want to use at least 1/100 at 70mm and 1/300 at the 200mm extreme. For a Full sensor camera it would be 1/70 on the short end and 1/200 on the long end.

I bought my first SLR an "Asahi Pentax Spotmatic II" in 1972 and I still have and use it now. When I went to a DSLR I was checking the same as you. I went with Nikon and got an adapter so I could use all of my lenses from the Pentax on the Nikon so if you have many decent lenses you may want to consider using them too. The only downside I found was that they work as purely manual lenses. I have a found that you can't really go wrong with either Nikon or Canon. I don't believe one is any better built than the other in the same price range. The price of the cameras and their lenses are pretty much the same too. FX (full frame) vs Cropped sensor is where the difference in prices cone in. The FX are more expensive as are their lenses but there are advantages to both FX and DX (ASP-C) cropped sensor. If you can afford the difference in price, generally I would recommend going FX (either Canon or Nikon). It depends somewhat on the type of pictures you will be mainly shooting. Many consider a cropped sensor camera to be a better choice if you plan to shoot a lot of wildlife. For Wildlife right now I would definitely recommend the Nikon D500 if you get a crop sensor camera.

I don't know about DNG and PSD either. DNG being a RAW format, I doubt if it would work. I think just all or most programs that would create a PSD should also be able to use them as filters withing the program itself.

If you are wanting to use the NIK software as stand-alone tools you have to drag and drop pictures onto the executable file for each application to use them that way. For when I want to use them as stand-alone, I put a folder on my desktop and created shortcuts to each NIK program's executable so that way I can just grab open the folder then grab a picture and drag-n-drop it onto the shortcut for the program I want to open it in.

On my computers, the executables are located in the following locations as an example (there is a separate folder for each application).

Analog Efex Pro => c:\Program Files\Google\Nik Collection\Analog Efex Pro 2\Analog Efex Pro 2.exe
Silver Efex Pro 2 =>c:\Program Files\Google\Nik Collection\Silver Efex Pro 2\Silver Efex Pro 2.exe

These are the ".exe" files you would need to create the shortcuts pointing to. Then just repeat for each application in its individual folder.

I have never used support from Photoshop or Corel Paintshop Pro so I can't really offer an opinion on them. I have older versions of Photoshop (CS6) and Lightroom (LR5.7) as well as Paintshop Pro X9 and I like all of them. Lightroom gets used just about all the time, but depending on what I am trying to do, I find that I like to use which ever I feel is easiest for the project. I also have "Photoshop Elements 15" as well as "Affinity Photo" and "ON1 Photo RAW 2017.6" and work with all of them too. I haven't gone with the Photoshop and Lightroom CC package because I don't want any reoccuring monthly payments at all. I like working with the ON1 quite a bit and I feel it is getting better all the time. If you are primarily only interested in Paintshop Pro or Photoshop you will find that Paintshop Pro will do just about anything your are likely to want to do. Photoshop does do some more but for me not enough to matter. Either should do a good job for you.

Focus then release the focus button and then recompose and shoot. You can't keep the back button focus engaged while you are recomposing or your focus will change.

I use an Altura flash with my SX50 and it works very well and is a lot cheaper. It comes by itself or with a set of wireless triggers (which also work very well). If you want to check them out her are links to them on Amizon.

https://www.amazon.com/Altura-Photo-Professional-AP-C1001-Accessories/dp/B00HK0A6LQ/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1504896482&sr=8-1&keywords=altura+flash+for+canon

https://www.amazon.com/Altura-Photo-AP-C1001-Speedlite-Auto-Focus/dp/B00KEYRI0C/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1504896482&sr=8-2&keywords=altura+flash+for+canon

I have purchased from them several times but the only extra included was a free microfiber cleaning cloth. I have always been satisfied with orders from them.

I did use "store original". I realized some may not be able to see or open the NEF file so I attached a "JPG" to a reply to my owe post figuring anyone the needed a JPG would be able to see it OK.

I just now remembered that the NEF picture won't show so here is a JPG copy of the NEF. No adjustments have been made to the picture.

(Download)

My wife & I went to Georgia to visit my brother and his wife and to photograph the eclipse. We went to Monetta, SC in a ball field to set up and shoot. Here is one shot with a Nikon D7200 with a 55-300 mm lens.

Eclipse NEF file
Attached file:
(Download)

I have had Elements 13, 14 and 15 all installed at the same time and had no problem running and of them. They co-exist fine.

My advice would be to stay out of "Auto" mode entirely. If you get a chance for a quick shot that won't allow any time for figuring out adjustments use the "P" programmed mode rather than "Auto" since you will at least have some control via exposure compensation. In most circumstances would normally shoot in "A" (Aperture Priority) to control the depth of field the way I want it. If stopping action (movement) is the primary objective, use "S" (Shutter Priority) and set the speed to whatever is needed. I would also recommend using the VR if your lenses have it available unless you are using a tripod for the shots, then I would shut the VR off. Also try to keep your ISO as low as you can allowing for the light available.

I don't own a D3400 myself, but I have used one. You should be able to get some great shots. Watch some videos and read your manual to familiarize yourself with the metering system and modes, and the auto-focus. Once you are comfortable try switching to shooting some in "M" (Manual) mode. Having used the 35mm Yashica, you shouldn't have too difficult a time learning to use Manual for when you want the extra control in your shots.

One last thing, if you don't already have a flash, I would recommend getting a decent "iTTL" (Nikon's TTL) compatible one. There are a number of reasonably priced ones available rather than paying a lot more for an actual Nikon brand flash. I have and use two different ones, an "Altura Pro AP-N1001" and a "Vivitar 583 (DF-583) for Nikon". Both work work extremely well and cost much less than one made by Nikon. "Yongnuo" and "Neewer" also are popular brands that offer "iTTL" flashes. Any of these will give you much better results that you would get using the built-in flash.