Question on shutter speed.
Oct 1, 2017 07:23:43 #
paulrph1
Loc: Washington, Utah
I suppose I could figure this one out myself but thought I would ask for more information. I have been in photography for so long and the old rule of shooting he shutter speed is 1/over the focal length of the lens. In other words if the the focal length is 200 the minimum shutter speed you should be using is 1/250 of a second. So my question is if you are using a zoom lens that it 70-200 and you have it set to 70 mm should you be using 1/100 of a second or the 1/250 of a second? Thanks in advance.
Oct 1, 2017 07:28:08 #
paulrph1 wrote:
I suppose I could figure this one out myself but t... (show quote)
You base the shutter speed on the actual focal length you are using.
Oct 1, 2017 07:31:49 #
paulrph1 wrote:
I suppose I could figure this one out myself but t... (show quote)
What ever the focal length you are using so 1/100 should work.
I was told 1/focal length.
Some say twice the focal length is what to use.
It's just a rough guide for 35mm cameras before VR.
Have a friend who was a sniper in the military who could hold long lenses really well.
And if you're using something other than a 35mm or full-frame sensor, you need to use the crop factor to get the equivalent focal length for the minimum shutter setting.
Oct 1, 2017 07:51:06 #
I set my minimum shutter speed to the longest focal length of the lens that I am using since I do not know when I want to zoom in or out
Oct 1, 2017 07:52:11 #
there is another argument that shutter speed is at least reciprocal of the focal length because the length and weight of any lens are approximately proportional to the focal length and therefore need increasingly higher shutter speed to hand hold.
If that's the case, then a zoom lens should be used at the reciprocal of the longest f length. Goofynoofy hits the spot with his sniper friend - it all depends how steady your hands are.
Image stabilisation also confuses the issue as does aperture - some manufacturers quote 4 stops of image stabilisation (which implies a 200m lens could be used at 1/25s with acceptable results.) And i know from using a friend's lens that a FF 300m f2.8 lens weighs a ton so wouldn't think of using without a monopod or tripod.
Like all rules of thumb it depends on so many factors, so when in doubt err on the conservative side :)
If that's the case, then a zoom lens should be used at the reciprocal of the longest f length. Goofynoofy hits the spot with his sniper friend - it all depends how steady your hands are.
Image stabilisation also confuses the issue as does aperture - some manufacturers quote 4 stops of image stabilisation (which implies a 200m lens could be used at 1/25s with acceptable results.) And i know from using a friend's lens that a FF 300m f2.8 lens weighs a ton so wouldn't think of using without a monopod or tripod.
Like all rules of thumb it depends on so many factors, so when in doubt err on the conservative side :)
Oct 1, 2017 07:53:49 #
And of course, in theory the image stabilization can reduce the normal camera shake the equivalent of several stops, so at 400mm, instead of using a 1/500 shutter speed, you SHOULD be able to get a sharp photo at 1/125 or even 1/60. My experience is that at those shutter speeds the image might be usable, but it is not going to be sharp!
Oct 1, 2017 08:06:28 #
There's nothing like empirical data. Do some experimenting. At each of the focal lengths you use most, take the same photo at different shutter speeds, paying close attention to proper holding of the camera and compare results. Then you'll have the answer for your particular gear and physical ability. Have fun.
Oct 1, 2017 08:08:28 #
Oct 1, 2017 09:33:10 #
Oct 1, 2017 09:41:39 #
Oct 1, 2017 09:42:44 #
The 1/focal length rule should be multiplied by the crop factor of the camera sensor. If you shoot with a 1.5x crop sensor camera your shutter speed should be a minimum of 1/300 second for a 200mm lens.
Oct 1, 2017 09:51:10 #
NikonCharlie wrote:
My opinion, fast shutter speed, always. That rule is not to be obeyed.
The 1/focal length guide is a minimum, not a single recommended setting.
Oct 1, 2017 11:14:53 #
As stated, 1/focal length for FULL FRAME, and 1/1.5*focal length for DX. However, stabilization mitigates the issue. I wouldn't use the 4 X improvement factor either. When I first started with film camera back in the 70s, I had a camera that was shutter speed preferred only or manual and used that rule extensively.
Oct 1, 2017 12:25:04 #
1/focal length is minimum to get some sharp photos. Keeper rate increases as you go higher. Best thing for sharper photos is keeping your shutter at 2x 1/focal. Only risk the shutter dropdown when you cant stomach the noise and you are willing to have an increasing number of photos have camera shake/blur. VR/IS helps but doesnt guarantee....technique and practice is just as / more important. (Or get out the monopod/tripod :-)
Oct 1, 2017 13:26:07 #
Paul... I work primarily in the active sport genre... Motion blur here is a HUGE issue...
For my soccer gigs I never go below 1/2000 of a second and prefer higher shutter speeds whenever practical...
btw, if you are using a DSLR then mirror slap will nearly always rob perceived acuity...
I assist many top commercial architectural shooters in my market... They all (without exception) use massive tripod support systems for their DSLR's, and always shoot mirror up...
Occasionally I'll shoot BIF to keep my timing keen... Again 1/2000 is the basement for me here...
I'm baffled why some of the recent higher end DSLR camera bodies from Nikon have retrogressed to 1/4000 and abandon 1/8000. a.k.a. D610, D750 etc. Even worse, the D750 will actually "crash" at 1/4000
https://www.digitalrev.com/article/nikon-d750-fast-shutter-speed-crashes-camera
Speaks volumes about Nikon's targeted "consumer" audience... fortunately their pro bodies still support 1/8000
Hope this helps Paul or is at least food for thought...
I wish you well on your journey...
For my soccer gigs I never go below 1/2000 of a second and prefer higher shutter speeds whenever practical...
btw, if you are using a DSLR then mirror slap will nearly always rob perceived acuity...
I assist many top commercial architectural shooters in my market... They all (without exception) use massive tripod support systems for their DSLR's, and always shoot mirror up...
Occasionally I'll shoot BIF to keep my timing keen... Again 1/2000 is the basement for me here...
I'm baffled why some of the recent higher end DSLR camera bodies from Nikon have retrogressed to 1/4000 and abandon 1/8000. a.k.a. D610, D750 etc. Even worse, the D750 will actually "crash" at 1/4000
https://www.digitalrev.com/article/nikon-d750-fast-shutter-speed-crashes-camera
Speaks volumes about Nikon's targeted "consumer" audience... fortunately their pro bodies still support 1/8000
Hope this helps Paul or is at least food for thought...
I wish you well on your journey...
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