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May 28, 2019 07:25:46   #
latebloomer wrote:
I just purchased a new Olympus E-M1-II. As my Pen F it had no include a full manual with it. My Nikons do.

Why can't a manufacture produce an included manual with such an expensive product? I know there manuals are not perfect; yet, they are very useful and can't cost that much to produce. Are the makers just that greedy and selfish? I find it absurd.


Unfortunately many manufactures have moved their manuals to the internet. You can download it easily anytime you want. In fact, I put my Nikon manuals on my phone for easy reference.
But, I, like you, enjoy the hard copies, in fact, for some of my more complicated set ups, I have many pages marked for easy reference, and my manuals are always in my camera bag for easy reference.
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May 28, 2019 07:22:42   #
GeorgeL wrote:
Any thoughts on the Fujifilm gfx100 or phase one 100 plus mp Camaras? Why and when is such a high mp needed ?


I case you want to make a print that can be viewed from the moon.
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May 28, 2019 07:18:44   #
watersedge wrote:
i have a crop factor camera using a 15mm - 70mm lense. what would you suggest the minimum hand held shutter speed would be for getting a sharp photo


Getting a sharp image is a lot more complicated than just considering shutter speed.
There is a unwritten rule about it though, 1/focal length is minimum, this rule is used by many. Many, like me, use a much higher shutter speed.
So, considering your longest focal length is 70, so your field of view on a cropped would be 105 mm, so using the above unwritten rule, your minimum shutter speed should be 1/105 sec. or 1/125 sec.
Then also consider the following:
1. Do you have VR, if you do, that is SUPPOSED to help you at low shutter speeds. Generally speaking, I use VR until I get to 1/1000 sec. But again, it all depends.
2. How steady can you hold your camera, elbows in to side of body, camera held with two hands, left hand under lens, eyepiece firmly held against your face thus with two elbows and face you have made a mini tripod.
3. One foot should be in front of the other as if your walking, not side by side.
4. Breathing, always take the shot on the exhale, slow and easy as you trip the shutter.
5. Push the shutter button slow and easy, do not jab at it because this can move the camera during exposure.
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May 27, 2019 07:04:26   #
Tomcat5133 wrote:
From the time Ken Rockwell reviewed this camera and after some other reviews
bought the RX10 III. The first RX10 that had this Zeiss super zoom that worked great.
At times I see images that seem brighter and have a specific look unlike my other
Sony's. It does do well at long zoom shots even hand helded. I posted here about
shooting an event at a college in Miami. My son didnt want me to get out of my seat
but cover where he was on the panel on stage. I shot first row with an angle stage left.
I had different zoom views on video and B roll of the room. It handled the stage light well.
I shoot soccer ground level with it. A cruise ship shooting long shots of people being
people on another ship. It is F2.4-4 (I wish is what like former RX10's one F stop)
I have not stopped liking this camera. Other photographers
balked at the price. Hey a Canon 70 200 high level could be $2500.
You get a Zeiss 24-600mm lens that is really good. Once is a while is has one
flaw in a darker area zoomed far it may hunt once-in-awhile. You have to go to
manual focus or just start the shot again.
I could see owning 2 of these and no other cameras. And a little blue is some shots. Might be my settings. Am I nuts.
From the time Ken Rockwell reviewed this camera an... (show quote)


My Sony has a Zeiss 24-720 mm lens for $450.00. I get up to and including sharp 20X30 prints and I can shoot in Raw, and, I can put my camera into my shirt pocket or a belt pouch. I am happy with it, does everything I need it to do.
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May 26, 2019 18:03:39   #
jelecroy wrote:
I was incredulous when I read in the user guides for my Nikon VR lenses that VR should be turned off for use on a tripod. I ran some tests, and the guide instructions were correct. Images taken on a tripod with VR enabled were noticeably blurry. I'm not sure I understand why that happens, but the effect is clear and and the reduced sharpness is quite evident.
Maybe later models are better, but I have three Nikon lenses with VR and I saw the loss-of-sharpness in all three when I ran tests.


IT is the NIKON VR system. When the VR system is turned on, it (the VR system) searches for movement, during this process it is moving things around inside your lens. If you hand holding your camera then there will be movement and the system inside you lens detects it and counters your movement and the resulting photo is great.
If, on the other hand, your on a tripod and you have the VR system engaged, the VR starts moving things around inside your lens searching for movement, but there is NO movement cause your on a tripod, BUT the VR system is turned on and does not recognize a tripod so it continues to move things around inside your lens and causes a blur when you trip your shutter.
IF, you turn off the VR when your on a tripod, there is no movement within the lens cause the VR is turned off and things turn out great when you trip the shutter.
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May 26, 2019 06:48:45   #
adamsg wrote:
I have a D7100 and love the camera. Coming very late to DSLRs, I still have my Nikon F and FTn. For those bodies, I have a Nikkor-S Auto, 50mm, f1.4 lens that is outstanding. I have read two D7100 manuals (Nikon's and Thomas' Digital Field Guide for D7100) and it sounds as if there will be no problem with the lens mount. I know I will not have auto-focus and will have to use manual exposure setting, but that isn't a problem. I just don't want to do the 7100 mount or my lens mount any damage. UHH advice greatly appreciated.
I have a D7100 and love the camera. Coming very la... (show quote)


If you or anyone else here has a similar question go here
https://www.nikonimgsupport.com/na/NSG_article?articleNo=000026574&configured=1&lang=en_SG
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May 26, 2019 06:43:03   #
Tom Iskiyan wrote:
I have a Tamron 150mm - 600mm on a Nikon D750. I usually use it with a monopole.
Should I have the VR on or off when using the monopole?
Thanks,
Tom Iskiyan


Monopole? That's a new name, sort of interesting, I am assuming monopod is the same as monopole.
Anyway, I digress, and to answer your question, a monopole will not hold the camera as steady as a tripod, so yes, you should use VR. BUT, above 1/500 sec. you really don't need VR, you can turn it off at that point, many feel focusing is faster without VR.
You should also read your camera manual on VR cause all digital camera's are different and use different VR controls. SO, READ YOUR MANUAL FOR SPECIFIC INFORMATION.
For instance, on page 379 of the D500 manual, it says, " Generally ON is recommended when the camera is mounted on a monopod (yes, Nikon also uses the phrase monopod) or a tripod with an UNSECURED head (what ever unsecured means), although OFF may be preferred depending on shooting conditions and the type of tripod. Boy, that really clears things up doesn't it.
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May 26, 2019 06:03:50   #
Doc Barry wrote:
Actually what is stated in the technical note is as follows:
"If you find that certain lenses do not produce the desired results with autofocus, you can fine-tune autofocus for each lens using the AF fineā€tune option in the setup menu. AF tuning can also be used to offset focus from its normal position for a deliberate defocus effect. Note that AF tuning is not normally required and may interfere with normal focus; use only when necessary. Check focus before making any adjustments using Saved value or Default option.

Note that fine-tuning applies only with phase-detection AF (viewfinder AF) and is not available during live view."

I fear that you don't understand what the tech note is stating. Yes, you do the AF tuning at a single distance and focal length (for a zoom), but it should then be correct for all focal lengths and distances. This is because Nikon has carefully designed into its lenses a compensation/correction for the zoom and focus mechanism so that (ideally) once it is AF tuned, it should work correctly for all distances and focal lengths. The guidance given in the tech note is suggesting a distance where the error in the compensation equation is minimal. Try other distances and focal lengths once you AF tune the lens and you should see it works fine. Set it for a different distance and focal length and compare photographs of a target with and without the AF tune. All of my Nikon pro-glass lenses required a slight correction, except two. One was spot on and the other I sent to Nikon Repair to have recalibrated. They confirmed it was off and they fixed it just fine. It too need a +2 AF tune correction when I receive it back, but was now great over the range of distances and focal lengths.

And of course the AF tune doesn't work with Live View as its states in the tech note since the mirror is up and it is behaving like a "mirrorless" camera.
Actually what is stated in the technical note is a... (show quote)


Fine tuning is only good for one distance. Many agree with me, including David Busch. I quote him here on page 164 on his book titled "Nikon D850". "Unfortunately, it's only possible to calibrate a lens for a single focusing distance". Now you show me where specifically you got your information.
And by the way, David states this in every book he has written on Nikon AF camera's.
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May 26, 2019 05:56:36   #
dyximan wrote:
What's school? My apologies no excuses when I'm in those moods I should just keep my mouth shut


No need to apologize, we have ALL gone there, some more times than others.
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May 25, 2019 19:26:38   #
Doc Barry wrote:
I'm glad you are so lucky Bill. I have a fine collection of Nikon pro-glass and have AF tuned each of them. FoCal is a good tool to use to obtain the best AF tune for a given lens. Nikon zoom lens have a proprietary compensation equation that is tweaked at the factory so that it (hopefully) stays sharp over the distance and zoom ranges. Same is true for prime lenses regarding the need to AF tune. However, Nikon can not make every camera body to have the AF and imaging distances be the same. In other words, this is an inherent characteristic of all DSLR cameras. Mirrorless cameras do not need AF tune because there isn't the mirror.

You are a fortunate photographer to have never had to AF tweak your lenses. But I bet you a chocolate chip cookie that I could AF tweak your lenses and improve their resolution/MTF.
I'm glad you are so lucky Bill. I have a fine co... (show quote)


Fine tuning a f4 or f2.8 for a specific distance is fine. If you read what I was responding to first before responding you would see that the OP was taking about a f6.3 lens used at long distance. Which, as any competent photographer knows, fine tuning is unnecessary.
And I am glad you fine tune your lenses, BUT IT IS ONLY GOOD FOR THE DISTANCE YOU FINE TUNE IT FOR. (and this comes directly from Nikon, not me)
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May 25, 2019 17:57:32   #
Doc Barry wrote:
I have the Tamron 150-600 G2 I use with my D810. It is an excellent copy I have. Using the TAP-IN Console to program the lens for a number of ranges and zooms to match a specific camera allows very sharp images over the entire range I found. With the Nikkor 200-500 lens, you can only AF tune for a single value. The Tamron is well suited for an outing in Kenya. Also, take your other lens.

I recently spent a couple of weeks shooting in Ireland and carried my "heavy" gear. No problem for me, but others on the tour could hardly lift the camera and lens. (They need to go to the gym I think.) I do suggest that you get a good shoulder strap. I like the Sun Snipper because it has some shock absorber built in and it has a steel cable internally to keep from suffering slash and run.

Have a great trip!
I have the Tamron 150-600 G2 I use with my D810. ... (show quote)


Because of it's better engineered lenses, and the fact that they are made start to finish by one company (not parted out to the lowest bidder) Nikon lenses DO NOT NEED fine tuned. I have shot Nikon glass for over 50 years and every lens, manual and auto focus have not needed fine tuning to get sharp images from every distance. My 20X30 competition prints speak for them selves. Not a rotten apple in the bunch.
I am happy that you like your Tamron, I am sure after you spend TIME fine tuning your lens it may give the same result as a out of the box Nikon.
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May 25, 2019 17:01:40   #
Barndog wrote:
From what I have read and heard it is a little soft at 500. I looked at comparisons of the Nikon against the Sigma 150-600 f5.6-6.3 Sport and, I have decided against the Nikon and will go with the Sigma. If that helps at all. The Nikon is suppose to be sharp up to 500mm.


The Nikon 200-500 is sharp throughout it's range. It is extremely sharp at 500. I have used that lens for almost three years and commonly show print at 500 mm to 20X30 without issue.
Again, the Nikon 200-500 is extremely sharp at 500mm.
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May 25, 2019 14:30:54   #
tomcat wrote:
I buy refurbished lenses from Nikon often. The focusing AF and zoom features are restored back to factory specs and cleaned. They look brand new when Nikon finishes with them---no scratches, scuffs, etc


Your quote, "The focusing AF and zoom features are restored back to factory specs and cleaned" is very misleading.
The vast majority, 98% of them at least get only a cursory check, to make sure they are working properly, most all refurbished lenses are actually lenses that customers have returned because they FELT they were not working properly. Most of these lenses have NO PROBLEM, they are run through a general check, they are not restored mainly because they do not have to be restored. And they are cleaned only on the outside, there is no INTERNAL cleaning. They look brand new because they are, they are brand new lenses returned by consumers, and since they are returned, they cannot be sold as new.
So, yes, refurbished lenses are a great value, the vast majority are not SUPER checked over, BECAUSE THEY DON'T HAVE TO BE, because their was nothing wrong with MOST of them in the first place.
I like to refer to these refurbished lenses as someone else's BAD COPY.
Finally, just let me say that the majority of the refurbished lenses are returned by very, very fussy photographers that would not be pleased if they could walk on water.
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May 25, 2019 07:51:42   #
frjeff wrote:
Leave on a two week vacation to Alaska on Tuesday. So,.....packing.

Want to stay as light as possible and have been thinking my best lens options for use on the D7200 will be my Sigma 17-70, 1.9-2.4 and my Nikkor 70-300, 4.5-6.3

I haven no greater telephoto. Other lenses are a 105 Macro and my 35mm prime.

My best options??


Sony HX99V, 24-720 mm Zeiss lens, pop up viewfinder, HDR at 6 stops. Carry in a belt pouch and you will thank me when you return from your trip.
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May 25, 2019 07:47:28   #
David in Dallas wrote:
I just received a message offering the subject lens for $999.95 and I'm wondering what the folks here think of it. I'm going to Kenya, Africa in September for about 2 weeks and my current lens is a DX 18-200VR2; my camera is a D7100. I have been considering renting a longer lens for this trip. I can afford to purchase this lens, but wonder how good it is and how much use I'd get out of it (I'm not a "Birder").

I'm open to suggestions.


You are referring to the current sale on Nikonusa.com that has the refurbished Nikon 200-500 on sale for $999.99.
https://www.nikonusa.com/en/nikon-store/refurbished-cameras.page
Many here have been very happy with Nikon refurbished products. Keep in mind that they also have a new Nikon 200-500 on sale for $1256.95 with a 5 YEAR WARRANTY vs. 30 DAY WARRANTY for a refurbished 200-500.
https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/search?Ntt=nikon%20200-500&N=0&InitialSearch=yes&sts=ma&Top+Nav-Search=
So, this is the question, is $256.96 worth an extra 59 months of warranty?
Only you can answer that question.
As for the lens, it is my go to lens for wildlife photography, it is sharp, sharp, sharp throughout it's zoom range. YOUR DECISION. But either the new or refurbished will serve you well.






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