DR is similar to original 6D which was good but a little mushy when you bring up the shadows. To your point, incremental issue. However, the 80D vs 6Dmkii at twice the price feels like a stretch. I was excited about he 6Dmkii features but with only one slot gave me pause....now, I will for sure wait. Coming from a 10D ... either will feel like a huge upgrade. 80D, 7Dmkii, t7, 6D, 6Dmkii all would be good frankly....some tough choices. (Articulatimg screen would be nice for the type of photography you are doing...)

New 5DmkIV goes down to -4EV in Liveview, -3EV normally. The D500 at -4EV is a gamechanger for sports and wildlife.
Money is no option= D5nikon or 1Dxiicanon. If sanity prevails....5DmkIV or D500nikon (or D810nikon) depending on whether reach an FPS is important.....now about that Sony A9....beats them all on the specs but still unsure of the use conditions on AF...which has always been the achilles heal of mirrorless. Would love to see an unbiased opinion from someone who has actually used the top of the line cameras in real world conditions. (Not the "I borrowed one to make a youtube video" but someone who spent time in real conditions)

....I have a polarizer. You cant really duplicate the effects of a polarizer in post unless you are prepared to go pixel by pixel and take out the highlights ... not an expert so happy to be educated....as for the other effects...i think they can all be done in post with careful although in some cases , laborious effort.

You do need NDs to do waterful and other motion effects since again....very difficult to do in post to any great quality

You are correct however I was referring to the FF option... I definitely could have worded that better ... :-)

Its the batteries thar create the warmth.
Pop'em out after you have been shooting forna while and you will notice how warm they can get...

80D is excellent. New FF with kit lens (your EF-S lens wont work) is a real kick in the pocket book. 6Dmkii appears to be not much better than the 80D in the Dynmaic range area according to DPReview. A jump to FF is expensive and if cost is the main concern...dont do it. Lens prices can be 2x what an equivalent EF-S lens would cost also (nifty fifty notwithstanding.)

Divorces are really expensive also....guessing that you would get the FF camera in the settlement so you have that going for you....

Photobooks is the cheapest. Not your question related to quality but thought I would throw that out there for those that want a "good" photobook for a low cost. (Printing is done in Malaysia and shipped to your door.) Their customer service is atrocious...really bad...but when the process works....it is seamless. I also used ZNO and found the quality about the same but 30% more expensive....

My yongnuos (560iii, 560IV, 568EX)all get warm in 3 different bodies...on and off camera...but never hot....

Your nuts and need to save your money...
...now go and get it anyway and enjoy re-igniting your passion for the art :-)

You tube. Practice Practice Practice.....
70/30 between shooting and learning post processing. Do them in parallel....watch how you grow :-)

Challenge yourself to always learn 1 thing new everyday you shoot. Look back 2yrs later and be amazed how much you cringe at what you used to think was really good. (There will be a few good ones too! :-)

Wasabi and vivitar.
Both versions worked in all 3 bodies (70d, 6d and 5DmkIV).

Vivitar needs recharging more quickly but they are older than the wasabis. Original Canons outperform the 2 vivitars and also being older than the original Canon from the 70D but still worth it....

Net:
Accessories: speedlights (yongnuo), batteries, lens UV filters (scratch protectors) and modifiers (snoots etc).....buy 3rd party cheap and extras as you like!
Lens and bodies : buy brand body name for your important lens range (holy trinity) and cheap/sharp/3rd party to taste :-)

Not just great vistas but you put some thought into composition. Very VERY well done...

Lowepro Protastic aw450.
...will hold 2 probodies with grips, side holders for tripod and water bottle (no bladder). 5 lenses (2 can be 70-200 size and stay attached).
Moly bands all around so you can add attachments as needed. Its a beast. Weight is not light but then what you described is not going to be light anyway.....is your chiropractor going with you?

Aperature (blurred Or everything in focus? Low F number = blurred background, high F number = all in focus)
Shutter speed (min 1/focal ie 50mm lens, use min 1/50shutter higher to freeze motion)
Lastly, ISO for exposure - watch that little arrow in the viewfinder to be in the middle of the grid. (You can use shutter speed and aperarure too but you will figure that out as you go :-)
Set to raw+jpeg or just raw
Check histogram after each shot as part of your chimping process.


Go play. Shoot chimp adjust shoot chimp adjust....once you know the fundamentals....you will learn faster by playing....then google the specific questions as you go.

Thats how I learned and I would say my ability to quickly capture a changing environment is decent....practice practice practice.

For some , more FPS, others its low-light focusing/noise. In reality, unless you shoot fairly regularly and do you research on both the tech and thoughtfully consider what composition (or fast action), you want to capture, you wont be able to take advantage of the latest tech.

Until someone invents a camera that can see in your head what you want to capture and then postion the viewfinder and adjust the settings automatically, you will always need the operator to adjust the settings :-)

For me, low-LightAF/low noise and fast focusing and reasonable FPS are the majors. (Dual slot for safety on paid events). The rest of the features are making it automated or easier and for me, are often a distraction. Get it framed right, focused, bokeh to taste and with within 1 stop exposure and the rest is done in the digital darkroom. (For non-strobe photography that is...)