Totality is when the moon blocks all the light from the sun, and even then the Path of totality is a stripe 50- 100 miles wide -- as you get further from the path of totality you then see a partial eclipse -meaning the sun is not totally blocked.
I am located roughly 200 miles from the path of totality, and even in that small distance I am only 91% Total

The easiest way to understand the big picture here is to remember that the earth's orbit around the sun is an ellipse (not a circle) and the Moon's orbit around the earth is also an ellipse.
So for a total eclipse to occur the moon has to be close enough to the earth to block the whole sun, but even then the darkest part of the moon's shadow (the Umbra) is only about 50- 100 miles wide (depending on how far the moon is from the earth at the time of the eclipse). If you move outside of that you start to see a bit of the sun thus for YOU the eclipse is partial. And a sliver of the sun can cause the same damage as the whole sun.
I hope this helps

I think there are going to be lots of fried cameras tomorrow, and fear a lot of damaged eyes.
Most folks are simply not paying attention to the solid month or warnings.
Be careful, be safe

Canon Put out an advisory reminding people that solar specific filters have a metallic component that Blocks IR & UV that cause most of the damage. They stress Do not use any kind if regular ND regardless of the darkness.
Not only that, they are cheap.
I know nothing about the properties of black plexiglass -- all I am saying is be really sure you are correct.
I have also read that some Welders glass has UV blocking, but my point is why take a chance, when the known alternative is inexpensive.

If it works correctly in AV use that if you are concerned that the shutter speed choices are too slow----and if this is for tomorrow and you are using a long lens you are probably correct.
Again if this is for the eclipse on a tripod you COULD stay in manual and manually change speeds. Not as fast or convenient but you do have some time with the eclipse.
If this is not about the eclipse, a Call to nikon? (but good luck tomorrow, they will be swamped)

There are inexpensive 4-5" hdmi video displays which may require external power or a proprietary battery, video guys use them all the time. Shooting Tethered to a laptop is also possible and you can have your editor available.
You do not say id you are shooting still, video, or time-lapse.
What you want to do is certainly possible and some experimentation would help a lot, even just to be sure of correct cables , power, & settings.....
You do know this thing is Tomorrow Right? Have you tried live view?
Good Luck

You say getting 'back to' Leica, which Leica did you own?
Leica's are exquisite cameras but M- Cameras require a certain mind set.
I have had a gorgeous Leica M3 SS Collapsable f/2 Sumi for 50 years (Just like the one HCB used to use)
I found that I was never any good with rangefinder focusing, took very few memorable pictures with it.
So if your experience with Leica was an M camera and you liked it, go for it.
Otherwise buy a Q2 or Q3, (or at least rent before you buy)
This is just one old failed Leica Guy's experience

Linda , Nice job, Nice work.
Since it was stipulated that we were discussing ways of expressing contrast
And "Tonal Contrast" immediately followed Color Contrast I think it was correctly named.
There is also nothing wrong with negative space as an attribute , and it is there as an element in the picture , but the Tonal contrast seems more correct to me, because negative space is first & foremost a compositional element (that can also be secondarily described as a contrast between nothing and something)
BTW the 'green stuff with wires' is a knock out picture.

I agree with Chg-Canon here
The 24-105 is f/4 already and even if you could mount a 2x you would be walking around with a 48-210 f/8
Optically, extenders need to be matched to lenses or quality suffers. In the case of the 24-105vit physically does not fit an extender.
Only you know how important pictures are to you, and how much you want to carry. The 24-105 is a pretty versatile focal range. If you absolutely need another lens I would recommend one of the 70-200 f/4's, and is the same or better quality as the lens you own.
On the other hand, if you only bring one lens, you never have to think about which lens you should use on any given day.
Remember, it is a given that you will Always see pictures that would be better with a lens you left home or didn't buy. My advice is do not worry about that, and use the 24-105. Frankly because it is F/4 I would rather have a tripod than another slow lens. There are some great churches in Spain and they are mostly dark. The tripod lets you work at base iso & f/5.6-8
Good Luck

I think James Taylor (think that's his name) was a fool for divorcing Her. I have to smile at that little baby near the end of this song.

They are both Great talents, but by James's own account , at the time he was a drug addicted mess, who should never have been married.
I'm a fan of both .... for their music

Regular ND filters DO NOT cut the IR &UV that damage eyes and sensors.
You need a solar filter meant for viewing/ photographing the sun

If you follow a real backup strategy 2 copies local 1 off site and one cloud you are very well protected.
M-disks are great but the weak link is how long readers will be available, although they are plentiful now , but CD's DVD's & Blue-Ray are already 'legacy media' . If you go that route be sure you buy a few well made readers.
Virtually every type of physical storage has not aged well.
M-Disc, makes a lot of sense to me and the world could use a widely adopted standard like that, but last I checked none of the really big digital content creators use them, because they produce too much data.
That doesn't mean they don't work, they do the question is how long.

The color checker passport & software is probably the most convenient and complete.
It integrates with lightroom and other apps even allowing stepped warming cooling.
But any known reliable target, gives you a known place to start.
If you shoot professionally, you really need to include targets in test images.
Plus it makes editing easier and faster, so why not?

Part of your question was WHY do metal prints look so good. They are similar to back-lit large transparencies.
They 'POP" because the print medium is reflective, increasing dynamic range.
They work best for subjects that really benefit from that dynamic range.
They certainly do not work best for everything, but when they do work they work well.
There are also metallic papers and profiles that can be used in high end pigment printers that give that look.

Light is Light what device it comes from is much less important than where it comes from and the apparent angular size of the source of the light. A couple of modern speed lights have more than enough power for nearly any portrait situation. I often suggest to people that they start with one speed light bounced off a cheap bed sheet, and a foam core reflector. You can duplicate beautiful window light 'on demand'
There are of course LOTS of different ways to do lighting, you can use multiple lights and hard lights , soft lights hair lights , rim lights etc, But if you are new to this, starting with one large light source and a reflector, is the best and fastest way to get one tried and true setup that gives beautiful results under your belt.
Look at Irving Penn's "Small Trades" portraits.
When you do that, you can easily move on to more complex lighting.
For lighting on the fly, there is no better advice than that given by Neil Van Niekirk in his event lighting videos for one flash on camera.
Between the two approaches you will be able to get beautifully lit portraits in any situation, quickly and reliably.

There are LOTS of other ways to do lighting, and I am a fan of anything that produces good results, but I am also a fan of results oriented teaching, getting quick good results, builds confidence and provides a foundation for more complexity
Good luck

I have used Maha 8 position chargers which good results. They charge each battery individually and simply charge level individually. These were NiMH. Li ion batteries may be different