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Nov 27, 2018 08:32:41   #
I have had that idea since a number of cameras and phones had the feature for human eyes. It will have to be fast enough so probably not good for BIF right away. I assume the feature will extend over all of their higher end cameras?

Blaster34 wrote:
Interesting concept, just wondering how well it will work and how far down the chain they can take this application? Sony recently announced at Photokina plans for their Eye AF that is currently limited to detecting human eyes, to also detect the eyes of animals. They gave a short demonstration of this working on birds and mammals, but provided no further details on whether or not it would be limited to certain types of animals....No concrete date was given for the support of Animal Eye AF. However it was mentioned that it may be coming in early 2019.... Guess if it works half as good as their current human eye AF technology does, it would be a definite benefit?????
Interesting concept, just wondering how well it wi... (show quote)
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Nov 23, 2018 15:11:33   #
Haden123 wrote:
Thanks Bob. For years I have been storing my cameras and lenses exactly the way you do. I was hoping the Ziploc bags would keep dust, humidity and fungus away from the cameras/lenses more effectively. Any reason for your discomfort about using Ziploc bags?

I have noticed that some Hogs put dehumidifier sachets in their storage bags but I have been uncomfortable about potential effects of the chemicals on cameras/lenses. Any thoughts?


Just to put you at ease. As a Ph.D. chemist I can assure you that as long as the dehumidifier sachet does not come in direct contact with your camera or lens there is no possible way it can harm either one.
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Nov 20, 2018 08:48:45   #
mpb.com has been very good for me. Also look at refurbished lenses.
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Nov 10, 2018 08:36:46   #
Architect1776 wrote:
Thousand Oaks the off duty police were not allowed to be armed in the bar, let that sink in.
Police are poorly trained unless they take it upon themselves to train on their own.
I am very proficient and do not wander through life in condition white.
Thousands of lives are saved every year by armed citizens that is not reported because it does not meet the anti gun agenda of fake news.
CCW holders are not shoot happy and are trained regarding shooting and the law. Most attacks are subdued by merely brandishing the firearm as in my case.
Today I believe police due to BLM and obummer trashing them and suing them and criminalizing law enforcement causes police to hesitate when instant action is needed. It is a problem of lack of support for police and their fear of being attacked by the left that causes the split second hesitation and costs them their lives.
This is what I have observed. Yes, I have been in many similar situations in SA as these in the service, I won, no hesitation and didn't miss because I practiced as many scenarios as possible regularly.
Thousand Oaks the off duty police were not allowed... (show quote)

Nice rant! Nothing to do with OP though. Maybe a little off base blaming everything on the left. Far left and right are both wrong about guns and gun control IMHO. Everyone should be able to own a gun if they pass background checks and undergo a licensing procedure that involves how to use a gun properly and safely.
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Nov 10, 2018 08:29:12   #
I sincerely doubt that you need to have any fear from other people in wildlife preserves or national parks. I am 70 and hike alone regularly in these places both in my state and across the country and have never had close to a problem. Bear spray is a good idea in some areas. City parks it would depend on where and especially when.A gun is o.k. if you are experienced and competent; if you are prone to anxiety then you would probably shoot an innocent victim. Daytime would not concern me. There are rational and irrational fears. If you have a heart condition then health issues when hiking are legitimate. Otherwise, the biggest risk by far would be driving to the park or preserve.
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Oct 30, 2018 20:44:15   #
Posting one properly exposed picture hardly proves your point. Especially one that is pretty easy to expose for.


selmslie wrote:
The concept is really quite simple.

If you increase the exposure because the background is dark, you risk blowing the highlights on the white feathers. You can't fix blown highlights.

If you reduce the exposure because the background is light, you only get a slightly darker white bird. That's easy to fix.

I took a couple dozen images like this one against different backgrounds using the same manual exposure setting. Some backgrounds were lighter, others darker.

The white birds all came out the same.
The concept is really quite simple. br br If you... (show quote)
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Oct 30, 2018 17:50:15   #
Of course! But using one manual setting also will not work. I find it best to use common sense based on experience and just exposure compensate for the subject. Underexpose for white bird on dark background and overexpose for dark bird with bright background. How many stops will vary but do your best and shoot RAW. Pretty basic..

selmslie wrote:
The same exposure does not work for the bird in direct sunlight and the one in the shade.

But if a bird in direct sunlight is flying and the background changes from blue sky to dark forest, a reflected reading is likely to increase the exposure and blow out any white feathers. I can't count the number of times I have seen people puzzled by blown out white feathers in situations like this.

What's even more strange is how many times the suggestion is made to spot meter the moving bird. There is entirely too much time wasted here on misinformation like that.
The same exposure does not work for the bird in di... (show quote)
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Oct 30, 2018 08:29:40   #
Whatever works for you. Of course, it is reflected light that eventually will hit the sensor. Other responses are correct. For shooting birds, for instance, one may be in the sky in full sun while another may be backlit and another may be in the shadows on a branch. To think that the same exposure will work for all doesn't make sense in theory or in practice.
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Oct 20, 2018 22:21:48   #
That may be your definition of a pixel but it is not the generally accepted one. The individual photoreceptors are the pixels. Once the raw voltage data is processed, 20 million for a 20 mp sensor, you actually get a lot more data than the 20 million since you have both intensity and color information for each original data point. Unfortunately, for printing (and other non-photography applications) there are alternate definitions for pixels. This may be what is confusing you.



burkphoto wrote:
A sensor has photoreceptors or “sensels” that receive filtered light. Pixels are the result of processing sensel data from several adjacent sites. Pixels do not have size. Sensels do. Pixels are just numbers that result from the post-processing of raw data.
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Oct 20, 2018 17:10:49   #
In the context of a camera sensor pixels do, in fact, have physical dimension. In almost all dslr sensors they consist of squares in a Bayer Grid. Larger pixels have an inherent advantage in signal to noise ratio since more photons hit them in a given time period, hence better high ISO performance. Smaller pixels have an inherent advantage in resolution as there are more of them in the same size sensor. Each pixel produces one of the data points in your photograph. The raw data is volts for each pixel in a CMOS sensor. Because of the Bayer color filter array the color of each pixel can be calculated from this raw data.



burkphoto wrote:
You're right about equivalence... There is no meaning to the use of that phrase here.

However, pixels do not have a physical dimension. They are just numbers representing color brightness values. They can be made larger or smaller when represented by dots of light or ink. That's what the term 'PPI' means. It's an expression of how many pixels will be spread over each inch of output. The very separate term, 'dpi,' is used when talking about scanner samples or printer resolution. How many samples per linear inch am I scanning from a piece of film or a print? How many dots am I using to reproduce each linear inch of output, regardless of the number of pixels spread over that inch? The terms are not really interchangeable.

DOTS do have dimension. When you "enlarge" an image, you are either creating more *pixels* through software interpolation, each of which will be represented by the printer using the same number of dots as if the image were not enlarged, or you are telling a printer driver to use more dots to represent a pixel over a broader area of the paper. Neither process can replace detail, and in fact, both of them slightly reduce detail (interpolation hides the loss a lot better).

There is no substitute for original data. Cropping discards some of what is captured. Enlarging via interpolation in software uses sophisticated algorithms to create fake pixels based upon the original ones, to fill in the "holes" around the real ones when you send the file to the printer for reproduction at a certain size. The idea is to reproduce the pixels with finer granulation (fewer dots per pixel), to make their edges smoother and less visible.
You're right about equivalence... There is no mean... (show quote)
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Oct 20, 2018 17:06:25   #
In the context of a camera sensor pixels do, in fact, have physical dimension. In almost all dslr sensors they consist of squares in a Bayer Grid. Larger pixels have an inherent advantage in signal to noise ratio, hence better high ISO performance. Smaller pixels have an inherent advantage in resolution as there are more of them in the same size sensor.


Notorious T.O.D. wrote:
Simply put if you crop and try to print to the same size the original would print you are spreading less data over the same area. You can interpolate data to create more data but it is just an educated guess and won’t improve sharpness.
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Oct 20, 2018 12:39:56   #
I believe that what you are getting at is: what crop on a full frame would give an equivalent amount of pixels on an APS-C type sensor. The APS-C gives a 1.6 magification (linear). Therefore, since the number of pixels is proportional to the square of the linear measurement, to get the same number of pixels as a 20 mp APS-C sensor from cropping the FF to the same content you would need about a 50 mp FF camera sensor. Of course, since the individual pixels in both sensors would be the same size you would lose some of the advantages of the FF, assuming the individual pixels are identical in both cameras (prob. not true), such as better ISO performance from larger pixels. Theoretically the smaller area of the 50 mp FF sensor could act just like a 20 mp APS-C sensor. Without an EV display for focusing it might be a little more tricky with the FF since all objects will appear smaller in the viewfinder.
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Oct 20, 2018 12:23:08   #
Pixel enlargement does not/cannot restore the original resolution though.
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Oct 18, 2018 07:41:33   #
I look forward to your results. My own limited experience with 1.4x with the 100-400 II lens indicated a significant loss in IQ at 400mm max. aperature. So much so that it wasn't any better than the 400 cropped. I am told the extenders work much better with some lenses (esp. primes) than others and many pros seem to use them so my results may have been flawed. I did use a tripod and static subject matter and manual focus for the test.


CHG_CANON wrote:
They were, yes, with a 2x behind a 500mm prime. The experiments I've observed with a 70-200 f/2.8L is that doubling this lens can be as good as the 100-400 for image quality. But, those experiments tend to be images of lines are charts and don't include tracking birds in flight. The 100-400L II provides the option of extending out to 560mm on an ever growing number of EOS bodies. I have a stream of posts now prepared of real-world results with various extenders and lenses. Stay tuned at a UHH near you

For our OP, before buying, you should address the earlier question and comments about using an EF 70-200 F/2.8 IS II (or now available III). If you have a version that is a good candidate, try renting both the 1.4x and 2x and make a hands-on experiment and analyze the resulting images to determine how best to address your need.
They were, yes, with a 2x i behind a 500mm prime.... (show quote)
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Oct 16, 2018 12:18:20   #
Your camera is fine. You might want to try the Nikon 200-500mm lens. It is much sharper than the Tamron for not a lot of price difference. Most of my Nikon friends that do bird photography swear by that lens.
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