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Posts for: epd1947
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Jun 23, 2021 19:52:49   #
sb wrote:
Creating great photographs used to require an understanding of light and of composition. Mastering the functions of your camera was essential. For nature photography putting yourself in the right place at the right time, along with a measure of good luck, was also required. Sometimes the results were good, often they were marginal, and occasionally they were great. Great patience was required.

Now we have cameras that will automatically focus on the eye of an animal - even a bird in flight. Taking a 20-shot-per-second series of photos of a bird in flight allows the "photographer" to select the best of dozens of photos - perfect timing, the ability to keep the bird in focus, or good luck is not required. I see snippets taken from what is essentially a video or posts of a sequence of multiple photos of a bird landing or a bird taking flight and I think to myself: "If I wanted a video I would have gone to YouTube".

The last few days we have seen folks singing the praises of sky replacement. Maybe "bird replacement" or "model replacement" will be next (certainly done in the advertising world). But should such dramatically altered photos be posted here without disclaimer? This is a long way from dodging and burning.

Some Hoggers love to splice in a sunset or sunrise into a photo where none previously existed. This is frequently not acknowledged - I always look closely at the light and shadows in the rest of the photo and when I see light and/or shadow that are impossible given the angle of the setting/rising sun I cannot decide whether to laugh or be angry.

Call me a Luddite if you will. Maybe I am slightly envious of the final results of such deceptive skills. But I try to resist the lure (well... I admit that the eye-focus thing gives me a little GAS...)
Creating great photographs used to require an unde... (show quote)


Should the photographer be required to “disclose” manipulations he or she may have used? For photos as art - the answer is no. Why should they? Does everyone need to adhere to some measure of purity to satisfy you? Does the painter have to disclose details about the types of paints used, brushes or palette knives, etc. used to apply the paint. How about a disclaimer that he or she did not paint in any clouds or coloration not in the actual scene as the painting was being created. Photography is a creative art form - restrictive rules are not needed or even appropriate. The only place I would draw a line on “manipulation” would be in the area of photojournalism where truth and objectivity should be a must.
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Jun 20, 2021 14:21:49   #
Iron Sight wrote:
With the 1/2.3 sensor as 6.17 x 4.55 mm is 6.17mm a diagonal measurement?


No, it’s length x width
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Jun 10, 2021 10:01:45   #
Not enough information to give a proper response. Why was it being returned, in what time period, condition, anything missing (box, packing materials, original paperwork, etc.)
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May 27, 2021 13:59:05   #
Lukabulla wrote:
Hi Everyone ,
Did a photo shoot with about 100 or so Raw NEF files .

I need to email the lot as jpeg .
Is there a way that I can bulk convert them instead of one by one ?

I'm using CS5 on Win 7

Thanks


Here’s how I would do it - on IPAD, pull all of the NEF files into an album on LR mobile. Next, “select” all 100 files and then export those files to the camera roll. You will now have an album of jpegs on your camera roll.
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May 18, 2021 12:13:45   #
Longshadow wrote:
Their trigger voltages are different between the ones made in different countries??????


As I recall, later versions of the 283 were made in China and those had a lower trigger voltage than earlier models which were made in Japan. Wein also makes a unit called Safe Sync (or they did some years ago) which would go between the flash unit and the hot-shoe to protect the camera - as far as I know those worked well. Safest approach, as someone already mentioned, is to use the flash off camera with a remote trigger.
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May 11, 2021 17:43:24   #
Thomas902 wrote:
"I seriously doubt that anyone’s eyes would be able to discern any difference in actual photos taken at f/5.6 through f/11, probably even at f/16 ...what does it matter?" epd1947 there is a VAST difference in the visual aesthetic between f/5.6 and f/16 or even f/11 for that matter with the AF-S 200-500mm f/5.6E ED VR. Trust me, I have clients who demand subject isolation... Absolutely no excuses acceptable.

Since you don't shoot commercially for a living maybe you're naive here... And that's understandable since you claim to have managed a retail photo equipment entity for a decade and a half... Straight from your Apr 4, 2021 post "...I managed their (Cameta Camera) used equipment division for about 17 years..."

Please realize that commercial photography is likely one of the more competitive "Crafts" which one might choose to engage in i.e. practice... Commercial Photography is decidedly unique and not really closely related to equipment retail.

There is no way in hell I would shoot a league soccer match at f/16 UNLESS it was doing a team's "group shots" either on risers or half the team kneeling in the first row...

Below is an example of the stellar isolation possible at f/5.6 with the epic AF-S 200-500mm f/5.6 Nikkor.
This same capture would be a trash throwaway at f/16 with all the chaos of fans, cars and trucks cluttering the background area clearly visible...

Maybe do yourself a favor (and others here on UHH) by mastering commercial photography and bring that gift to the forums... Way too many sales persons and far too few actual commercial shooters here on UHH in my humble estimation... btw, you might try pitching your inferences on f/5.6 vs f/16 in the Sport Photographers forum epd1947 and see how much credibility it garners...

Yes I hold that there is a major difference between f/5.6 vs f/16... and so do my clients.
Wishing you all the best in your pursuit of commercial photography epd1947...
.
"I seriously doubt that anyone’s eyes would b... (show quote)


No, I am not naive - my comment was strictly with regard to the "sweet spot" of the lens - As to the rest of your snarky remark - I did a fair amount of shooting professionally for more years than you are on the planet - so keep your asinine remarks to yourself.
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May 11, 2021 12:29:07   #
CO wrote:
LensTip.com does extensive lens testing. This is the chart from their image resolution testing for the Nikon AF-S 200–500 mm f/5.6E ED VR. It has the best image resolution at f/8.


I seriously doubt that anyone’s eyes would be able to discern any difference in actual photos taken at f/5.6 through f/11, probably even at f/16. The issue I find with these charts is that the give the impression that one should always shoot at f/8 to avoid less than stellar results - but if normal views of a photograph will not discern a difference what does it matter?
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May 9, 2021 14:12:26   #
pshane wrote:
First, 'The Rant' -
I use Google Photos mainly BC it's a great storage tool, where you can scroll up/down to a 'year' that you want to check out, and there they are! - There is a 'Share' Button, BUT, - There is NO Provision to R.Click,& 'Copy' a photo to share on email, or use for anything! - (when I try, they want the recipient to have a 'Google Acct.' in order to Share, and Good Luck using it for any other reason!) -
I hope that a fellow Hogger will help make a fool of me, and explain the workaround!

Second, - Do any of you have suggestions as to a Simple, 'Picasa' type Photo Editor for simple things,
- such as Cropping, Straightening, Lightening, Darkening, Highlights, Shadows?
Picasa was the perfect tool for everyday photos and snapshots, even tho I have Lightroom, (4), and Photoshop Elements 2021, Picasa was so easy, simple, and had the basic adjustments for 95% of photos I'd like to share, Not to mention that you could 'Share' directly to E-Mail with it as well! - - (OK, I 'mentioned' it!)
( LR 4 is all I could deal with when I first got it, & now I can't Upgrade to 6 w/o a Subscription to Adobe)

So any help from anyone out there in Hogger Land, would be MUCH appreciated! - Thanks, Pat
First, 'The Rant' - br I use Google Photos mai... (show quote)


To share a photo (from Google Photos) via email just click on the share icon (looks like a rectangle with an upward pointing arrow and then click “share as” and one of the options will come up as email. You can also just copy a link to the photo and then paste that link into either an email or a text message.

On the issue of tweaking photos, the tools available in Google Photos are similar to those that used to be available in Picasa.
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May 3, 2021 15:40:48   #
flyboy61 wrote:
Educate me, please! I was just reading some information on the Tamron 90mm f/2.8 Macro lens that I am thinking of buying, in which someone stated that on a DX camera, the effective field of view with a FX lens, would be ~ a 135mm equivalent, but the crop factor would also affect the f/stop, raising it to f/4.2.

Not saying this isn't true, but it is the first time I have heard that, and it doesn't seem correct to me. Despite the narrower field of view, the distance from the front element of the lens to the sensor doesn't change, and the light has no further to travel than before, so the f/stop should remain the same. (?)

Next, and I admit this is something I have never given much thought to, but lenses with internal focus do not change their physical length, therefore light has no further to travel from the lens' front element to the sensor, which I understand is the reason for non-internal focus macro F/2.8 lenses to have an actual rating of ~ f/4 at 1:1 distances, when their lens barrels are extended "waaay out yonder".

That's the reason my 70-300mm non-IF zoom is placarded at F4.5-5.6, and my 70-200 I F zoom is a fixed F/4 throughout their zoom ranges. So, providing my understanding is correct, there should need to be no "adjustment" of the f/stop at close focus distances for Internal Focus lenses. Or?
Educate me, please! I was just reading some inform... (show quote)


It's really pretty simple - the amount of light emerging out of the back of a lens is exactly the same regardless of the camera that lens is mounted on. The field of view captured will vary with the size of the sensor, but the exposure level of whatever field of view is captured will be exactly the same. Depth of field varies because, with a smaller sensor camera, you either need to move further back from the subject (assuming you are keeping the same focal length lens) or select a shorter focal length lens (if you want to capture the same field of view as you would with a camera with a larger sensor without changing your distance to the subject) - either of those actions broadens the depth of field.
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Apr 5, 2021 01:57:19   #
Scruples wrote:
I have never been to CameraLand. I guess because it is in Bethpage and I live in Brooklyn. I guess I’ll have to convince the wife I am suffering from a GAS Attack. If you highly recommend Mr. Sandick I’ll be on the lookout for him.


I’ve known Steve for around 18 years - 17 while we were colleagues at Cameta. He had a large following there and was held in high regard for being honest in his recommendations on equipment.
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Apr 4, 2021 14:23:04   #
lensmaster wrote:
CAMETA CAMERA was a great source, sorry they are gone now.

B&H, ROBERT'S (in Indiana), SAMMY'S in LA. top three sources for equipment.

ALWAYS buy the US version/never Grey Market.
ALWAYS pay the Nikon price, it is worth it in the long run.

go to the NIKON WEB PAGE and they offer good deals on REFURBISHED (by NIKON) equipment that comes with a warranty from NIKON. Lenses, bodies, flashes. You save a little, they often have incentive sales, and it is direct from NIKON so there is no problem with repairs or warranty service. (I got a 28-200 from their reconditioned listing-needed a 'vacation' lens. TACK SHARP/WORKS PERFECTLY/WARRANTY...saved about $200 from list.)
CAMETA CAMERA was a great source, sorry they are g... (show quote)


I retired from Cameta Camera a few months before they closed up shop (I managed their used equipment division for about 17 years) - I feel that was a definite loss to the photo retail world but the owner wanted to retire, and try as he might, he wasn't able to find a suitable buyer to keep the business in operation. If you like dealing with Cameta - try out CameraLand in Bethpage, NY (https://cameralandny.com/) - long term Cameta senior associate Steve Sandick recently joined their team. He is a 100% honest guy and highly knowledgeable.
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Apr 3, 2021 14:47:07   #
RatGMAN wrote:
Is Abe's of Maine a trusted supplier? Prices are pretty good.


Check their reputation through reliable rating sites - then compare to reviews for known reliable businesses - you can trust B&H Photo, Adorama, Henry’s, Robert’s - and many others. If you are talking about new cameras and lenses you will find that all of the reputable dealers have the same pricing - those prices are set by the manufacturers - a business listing the same item at a lower price should raise a very big red flag.
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Apr 2, 2021 23:38:36   #
TriX wrote:
For anyone who doesn’t already know, avoid camera “deals” on Etsy the same way you would with 42nd St. - the site has more obvious scams than the unclaimed fortune emails I receive routinely from Africa. It’s so bad (It makes Craigslist look like the BBB), that I can’t believe it’s still in business. Here are some examples (and each “seller” has only 1 item, nothing but an email address, and 0 sales, references, reviews or even an address).

Canon EF 300 mm f2.8L IS (in perfect condition complete with case) $800
Canon RP with EF 24-240 & EF 50 for $350
And best of all, Canon 5D MkIV with “complete photography package” which includes a 24-105L and a 16-35L for $889.99 (!)

How do they get away with continuing to post these obvious scams (or stolen/fake merchandise) and stay in business? I’ve come to expect scams on a daily basis, but these are so blatant, it got my attention.
For anyone who doesn’t already know, avoid camera ... (show quote)


The answer to this is very simple- if a deal looks too good to be true it’s almost certainly a scam. If you want to purchase used or new gear do so from reputable dealers. If you can’t afford the going rate for the gear you want, look for lower cost alternatives to stay within budget. Too many people think they can get unrealistically great deals on line so they fall prey to these scammers.
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Mar 28, 2021 23:42:57   #
lensmaster wrote:
Sharing information regarding equipment others have taken to Hawaii, no matter what the original post said, offers a spectrum of experience and what works/doesn't work which could impact and influence the original poster to change their plan(s).

The more first hand information the better, no matter if what is suggested follows the exact question guideline or not.

He has never been to Hawaii, and the question actually 'speculates' on his plan to take the equipment he listed. He could be wrong....or misdirected as to what might be needed or be the most practical on the trip.
Sharing information regarding equipment others hav... (show quote)


Good points - I saw the comment someone made about not sticking to the exact wording of the question. Mentioned in that regard was pieces of gear like a backup camera body, one of the items I suggested. My point in that regard was that someone going on a significant, and perhaps once in a lifetime trip, should not proceed on the assumption that their main camera will not fail them.
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Mar 28, 2021 20:50:08   #
wdross wrote:
I looked at Image Resource and it looks like larryepage's suggestion of the Nikon 24-120mm f/4G ED VR AF-S may be your best option for a one lens trip. Although the 28-300 offers more range, it is not as sharp for all the aperture/focal lengths combinations. If you want a little extra range, add in a 1.4X teleconverter. Again, renting may be your other best option.


Just a technical point - I don’t believe the Nikon 1.4X teleconverter is compatible with the 24-120mm lens.
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