Posts for: normanhall
Nov 28, 2012 07:33:55 #
I am posting an update to this i am volunteering my services to operation photo rescue. We are in the process of restoring images that was damaged in the Hurricane sandy disaster. they have also helped during katrina and other disasters.
Oct 29, 2012 12:56:17 #
The Watcher wrote:
Once you get the meter, you'll likely have to calibrate it so the meter readings that you apply to the camera, give you the proper exposure. This will also have to be done with flash readings. The main advantage of a hand held meter are incident light and flash readings.
the only thing i had to calibrate was if the stop increments i set mine to 1/3 stops to match the camera. that should be the only thing you have to do. and that is a matter of flipping some switches in the back.
Oct 29, 2012 11:35:17 #
they also offer and attachment for the L-358 that you can spot meter at a distance. i don't have it but want it. attach it to the meter and hold it to your eye and just focus to the point you need a reading. it adds i think about 200 dollars.
Oct 29, 2012 10:14:16 #
rpavich wrote:
quote=normanhall quote=rpavich I finally bit the... (show quote)
sekonics website is always give free webinars. they have been a big help to me figuring things out. You may want to check those out they keep them archived and like i said they are free.
Oct 29, 2012 05:21:48 #
rpavich wrote:
I finally bit the bullet and am getting a Sekonic L358 meter.
I've used my Polaris SPD 100 and I like it but thought it was time to move up...I especially like the way it spits out ratios without having to do the math yourself. :)
Anyone else have a 358 here?
I've used my Polaris SPD 100 and I like it but thought it was time to move up...I especially like the way it spits out ratios without having to do the math yourself. :)
Anyone else have a 358 here?
i use the L-358 my images are so much better that i use the light meter. They are a lot better than the in camera meters.
Oct 26, 2012 05:32:25 #
I use a sekonic L-358. i paid around 200 for it on ebay and love it. I use it over in camera metering for most shots now and i never clip my highlights anymore. the light meter has made a drastic improvement in my images. Sekonic also has great tutorials on there website for free that were a great help.
Oct 24, 2012 08:21:45 #
thanks guys for the input i made an offer of 150.00 dollars and she turned it down, and from what i hear from her she bought them to make money off of. she had not used them so i feel she is probably stuck with them at that price.
Oct 22, 2012 12:09:42 #
Oct 22, 2012 08:26:53 #
I saw this equipment on craigslist. they are asking 400.00 for what you see in the photo. Is this worth the price they are asking. In my opinion i think it is high. to be honest i was thinking of offering 200.00 for it. Any good feed back appreciated. Not looking for smart__________ answers.
5 lighting tripods - Studio Systems
2 Savage port a stands
2 umbrellas - Studio Systems
2 black light heads - Studio Systems
3 silver light heads - Test Rite
1 tripod - MX2000
5 lighting tripods - Studio Systems
2 Savage port a stands
2 umbrellas - Studio Systems
2 black light heads - Studio Systems
3 silver light heads - Test Rite
1 tripod - MX2000
Oct 21, 2012 07:30:46 #
danielb59 wrote:
I'm thinking about trying Carbonite for file secur... (show quote)
i started to use carbonite but the 59.00 dollars don't include external drive back up. and if you don't mind waiting a couple of weeks for it to download all your stuff. If you want fasted up loads then that is extra as well. I went with backupmypc.com don't cost extra to back up externals. but they do charge extra for faster back ups.
Oct 19, 2012 05:32:05 #
dpackard67 wrote:
I am wanting to learn how to use an external flash, so I purchased a used 'Nikon SB-80DX'. Is this a complicated flash to use, or am I just not understanding it? Is there a more simpler flash I should start out with? In doing research, I found that the Nikon SB400 is just point and shoot, would this be an easier flash to learn on? Help, this is driving me crazy! :x
In my opinion you will get better results if you use it off camera. Maybe on a tripod or have someone hand hold it. With the flash at full power move the flash further from your subject or closer until you get the desired result. This would be easier with an external light meter so you can measure your light hitting the subject. aprox. 30 percent flash is pretty good, but with all things it varies as to your subject and light.
Oct 19, 2012 05:26:24 #
Baz wrote:
Can anyone advise me on what has gone wrong, and how to cure it please ?
The problem is with CS6. I'm working on a photo, and am trying to clone out some background. On selecting the ref point (Alt/Left click), and then trying to move to the point to clone over, the whole image moves. It was working OK yesterday, and I suspect I must have done something to it, but I don@t know what. Any suggestions would be appreciated.
The problem is with CS6. I'm working on a photo, and am trying to clone out some background. On selecting the ref point (Alt/Left click), and then trying to move to the point to clone over, the whole image moves. It was working OK yesterday, and I suspect I must have done something to it, but I don@t know what. Any suggestions would be appreciated.
I am not sure if this will help or not but make sure the caps lock is not on. With caps lock on it will cause some strange things to happen in photoshop.
Oct 17, 2012 08:36:57 #
I upgraded to cs6 because i got it free. In my opinion the only reason to continuously upgrade is if you are a professional. Just a hobbyist in my opinion need not update every year.
Oct 17, 2012 08:04:03 #
DaveMM wrote:
You can group an adjustment layer to act only on a specific layer. In Elements 9 this is done by:
- have the adjustment layer immediately above the layer it is to act on;
- make the adjustment layer the active one;
- press Ctrl G to group the layers (there must be a menu option but I cannot find it).
The adjustment layer then moves to the right and only affects the layer it is grouped with.
CS6 must have a similar facility.
- have the adjustment layer immediately above the layer it is to act on;
- make the adjustment layer the active one;
- press Ctrl G to group the layers (there must be a menu option but I cannot find it).
The adjustment layer then moves to the right and only affects the layer it is grouped with.
CS6 must have a similar facility.
perfect that is exactly what i was looking for. It worked just like you said.
Oct 16, 2012 07:20:32 #
I am looking for some help on adjusting color or exposure etc in layers without effecting the other layers. I know there is a way to do it but not having much luck figuring it out.
example would be moving someone to a different background and adjusting layer to match or come close to the background layer.
I am using Photoshop CS6
example would be moving someone to a different background and adjusting layer to match or come close to the background layer.
I am using Photoshop CS6