Susan of Vermont

thanks.

Back when I was younger, I had a Nikon FE with a 35-70 that I absolutely loved as my workhorse lense. I think that staye on the camera near continuously.

As for your comment on overlap, I am not sure I have too much, a I am using the 70-200 AF (yes, with VR!) FX on a DX body, so I have an equivalent minimum of about 105. I was worried that if I got a DX lens only up to about 80 or 85, then there would be a gap. With the 18-140 DX AF VR, at least I have some overlap. Yes, I give up light, but you have to give up something to get down in the $500 range where I need to be, and most of the f2.8 or better lens that would cover this range are $1000 plus. As some point when the wallet will afford it, would look to upgrade, but it seems like a good basic starting point while I learn. (The 70-200 f2.8 is really my splurge here as I wanted specifically to go after the bball)

To all. In searching the Nikon lens guide (thanks to a link above), the are having a sale on a 55-200 f3.5-5.6G AF-S ED DX VR for what seems a rediculously low $150 (down from $350 normally). Any thoughts on this lens? Is there something wrong so that they are trying just to dump their stock? Again, this would be an entry level "walk around" lens for me

Thank you all for your suggestions. I am likely to work with Cameta, and now with the contacts suggested will call them to see if we can work out a package with both the D7200 body and the walksbout lens that I should have.

Will post as I get going. Much to learn.....

Hi.

Still new to DSLR and would like some advise on questions related to the purchase of a D7200. Thought, as my questions related specifically to purchase, this might be a more appropriate section area. If not, my apologies advance

I am making the leap to get a D7200 and, as an aspiring hobbiest, looking at one refurbished.

A) I am seeing the refurb bodies on both Nikon website and Cameta, with Nikon being more expensive (actually same $$, but the Cameta body comes with a handful of accessories). Nikon would obviously be factory return, but the Cameta also says that it is. Any worries about difference in "factory refurb" standards between the two, or would both be "Nikon factory"?

B). Cameta refurbs come with a 1 year warranty, but I cannot find what Nikon comes with (sure it is there, but may just be not seeing it. :). )

C) are the extras that cameta seems to package in (like a 32gb card and various other stuff) any good, or should I look for just a basic body and get the rest of the stuff elsewhere

D) I have, via a purchase from UGG member, the main lens I want - a 70-200 f2.8G AF-S FX lens, purchased specifically for my primary goal of shooting indoor BBall in average to poorly lit HS gyms, but I would also like a shorter lens as well. Some of the kits have a 18-140 f3.5-5.6G DX AF VR, which, taking into account the crop factor on the FX lens, might give me a shorter "walking around" lens to supplement the 70-200 FX with a bit of overlap while I learn the craft. Thoughts on this lens combined with the D7200 (for about $500 dollars incremental). Is there a different lens you might point me towards?

Thanks in advance. Learning a lot from all of you. As i start clicking will, post looking for advice

I have seen certain on-line sellers recommended here, but not this one (that I recall). How have people found them, specifically for buying refurb equipment?

How would you compare them to Cameta or some of the others more frequently mentioned?

Thanks in advance to all

I have seen certain on-line sellers recommended here, but not this one (that I recall). How have people found them, specifically for buying refurb equipment?

How would you compare them to Cameta or some of the others more frequently mentioned?

Thanks in advance to all

This is exactly right. Just check the charger and if you see "110-120/220-240 50-60hz" or something similar, you will be fine using just a plug adapter. Remember that U.K. And EU adapters are not the same. I always bring both.

Also, if you travel with anything that uses a USB cord, I recommend picking up a separate adapter for that, perhaps one that allows multiple USB cords. I got one at staples by Targus that clips in multiple country adapters and up to 4 USB cords at once - and is small! Really slick!!!

Finally, the final reason I recommend plug adapters over converters, if your devices can utilize them directly, is that the increased voltage will charge your devices faster!

Hi New to DSLR, so still learning a few things. (Or wanting to). I just came across this "crop factor" the other day while looking at a 70-200 FX zoom for a D7200 DX body. This is new to me. Can someone point me to an article that will explain this better? Thanks in advance

Glad this question was posted, as I am thinking about buying a used/refurb camera.

Was wondering about how many clicks was considered normal life (answers above indicate at least 100,000, and maybe more) and what maximum count one should consider in buying a non-new camera? Additional thoughts on this second question would be appreciated? To the point above, 100,000 click is 192 per week every week for 10 years, or double that if you were only planning on the camera lasting for 5 years before needing/wanting to replace. For a professional - maybe not enough, but for a hobbyist, that might be plenty.

Also, would it be considered "fair" to ask about click count before purchasing, either on a private sale or via one of the used sites? Should one ask for a picture of the click count on the screen (I have seen that posted on some of the UHH bodies offered for sale here)?

Much good advice above. In summary, take reasonable precautions and be aware of surroundings, but not paranoid. The tips on not displaying logos and using bags that do not look like camera bags is good. For zippers, I found these nice 1" snapping S-hook locking carabiners (Home Depot actually) that I can use to lock zippers together on my backpack, which gives me much piece of mind on someone opening one up quickly. I also use insurance. Asking your insurance company for a scheduled item (like camera equip) with a zero deductible for a specific length of time is not that unreasonable and can take much of the stress out.

I also agree with the comments on "free" bags being lifted from benches or restaurants. When standing to shoot, I put my foot through the strap. At restaurants, my foot also goes through. Makes you not the weak target and they will move onto someone "softer"

AFP. Hi. The reason I was interested in the low light was specifically indoor Bball in lousy school gyms...

Looking a a relatively fast zoom lens @2.8, but I think the ISO 6400 of the D7100 would be limiting in trying to get to 1/500 even with this lens.

Suggesting any tips more than welcome...

The tech specs list the D7100 as ISO 100-6400 There is a note that it can "expand" to 25600, but I have not yet been able to learn what expand means. Maybe one of our more seasoned UHH contributors can expand (pun intended) on this. Thanks in advance

I was hoping someone would comment on this topic WRT indoor low light sports. Thank you so much.

I am considering getting into this area do to the multiple teams my kids play on and need better equip than what I have. Not at the pro level and not blowing up huge, but just a dad whom wants to capture his kids well as they progress in their sports careers. I had been considering a used/refurb D7100 or D7200, but the comments above would indicate that I cannot push the ISO on the D7100 high enough as it tops out at 6400. UHH folks - do you agree?

(And yes, a D500 would be be great, but too much camera, and $$, for me at this point)

Is the D500 the only of these camera bodies that have this flicker reduction for floressent and mucus you vapor lighting? Is is needed for amateurs (advanced or not) for decent shots in poor indoor gymnasium lighting?

Thanks. Sorry for asking, but all of this is new and I want to make sure my one purchase is the right one, and if I can save money on the body and put additional money into the glass, I would like to do that

Hi. As this is closely related to the above discussion, please forgive me for adding this to this string, but I think the resulting thoughts may be relevant to the question, and importantly details, that rbk35 originally asked.

I have been contemplating the 7200 vs D5 vs 500, possible through the used/refurb markets. Primary use will be shooting high school bball, which I know is challenging environment. While I do know that the 500 is the more advanced camera, and many of the contributors here are professionals whom make their living from their pics, as a non-professional whom will never desires to do more than have good pictures of their kid's teams and, maybe, a submission to our local paper (Circulation 2500), IYHO, are the advantages of the 500 enough to offset the mich higher price and size? Note that this is a question on the camera body, as many of you have already contributed thoughts of having good fast glass. Thanks

Hi all

Thanks for all those whom posted here and to me privately. A few follow up thoughts
-ISO. In rereading my original post, I mistyped my desired min ISO. Was supposed to be 16000, not 1600. I think this fits with most of the comments on needing ISO 3200-6400+
-for the recommendation on touch/feel, absolutely agree. In fact, I saw this comment just after getting back from our local camera shop (this is rural VT - more cows than people - so this may be the only shop in 50 miles)
-camera body. The D500 will do it all, but it seems like overkill for this level of amateur work, both from a spec standpoint, body size/weight, and price. I like Nikon, having owned a FE back in the 1980s.
-speaking of that, I think I still have 3-4 decent lenses from that. F mount manual lenses if I recall correctly (stored elsewhere). Will these work with current Nikon cameras? (yes, without the AF obviously)
-lens. Seems I got the specs for the medium length lens right. Seems more of a recommendation for shorter zoom rather than a fixed length. I remember back in the 80s that the rule of thumb was don't zoom over a 3:1 ratio as the optics got a bit flakey. See lots of lenses now in the range of 15-80, which is 5:1. Has engineering improved or is the old guideline still a good rule of thumb.
-reading other threads here on the site, it would seem one reasonable option would be to look for a used or refurb camera and/or lens. I did check out the Nikon website, and see some. Any other recommended sources? eBay could be an option. In some way, buyer beware, but eBay guarantee is pretty good. Thoughts?
-what would be an predecessor model to the D500 that I could/should consider on the used/refurb market
-jerryc41 - thank you so much for all of the references
-last question (for now). I think I now understand the difference between FX and DX lens. Amy I correct that you can use a FX lens on a DX body, but not vice-versa due to vignetting? Is that correct. If I end up with a DX body, is it worth the extra (remember - think amateur) to get the FX lens so the lens investment could carry up to a more advanced body if I wanted to upgrade later, or just go for what I need now, and worry about new lens/technology only in the future

Thanks to all