MattW1 wrote:
Good afternoon,
There was a recent post that morphed into several replies about equipment storage and humidity control. I've thought (and worried) about this occasionally as I live in a very humid environment. There were a couple references to Ruggard electronic dry cabinets. Can anyone give their opinions of these? Are there other companies who make similar or better storage options?
When I searched this topic in UHH, the only company I found referenced was Ruggard. The size I'm considering in the Ruggard line is the 120 liter.
Thank you for any help. Looking forward to hearing what else may be available.
Matt
Good afternoon, br There was a recent post that mo... (
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I use the Ruggard. Here is my unit.
https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/1348545-REG/ruggard_edc_120l_electronic_dry_cabinet_120l.html?sts=pi&pim=YBe aware, B&H deeply discounts these cabinets about twice a year. I believe I got more than $100.00 off mine. You can sign up for their daily deals. I do not always buy, but every once in a while they offer really great deals. Just be patient.
I really like mine, if you have expensive equipment it is only logical to care for it the best way you can. I really like my cabinet, you will too.
Marto wrote:
Can any body help me.
Is there any UHH members in the UK that repair canon lenses.
I have been quoted around £200..00 pounds for the repair by six authorised canon
repair companies in the UK.
Many thanks. MARTO.
If all 6 are quoting you the same price, what advice are you looking for?
dtsobel wrote:
I'm starting to look into going on a african safari. I'm not looking at a "photo" specialized one as my wife will also be going and the seem to be considerably more expensive. any one have recommendations. I have been looking at using Game Watchers Safari.
I'm reading that the better ones are in conservatories which are owned by the native tribes.
I only recommend one person, my fiend Peter. In addition to offering a African photo Safari, he also works closely with the Masai helping to build schools, supply fresh drinking water and help with their paradigm shift to a life that includes conserving, rater than killing wildlife.
https://peterswildlifesafaris.com/
A. T. wrote:
I attended a photo class and the instructor had us lock in 18% gray in order to get a correct exposure. I have never heard this explained that way and would like someone to expand on this topic. I use the gray card to get the proper white balance and my exposure meter and exposure compensation to get the proper exposure. Am I missing something here?
Kodak issued these for years. It is the middle ground for correct exposures. BUT, you have to read the card under the same lighting as the subject you are shooting. So, if the sun is coming in behind you make sure you meter read the card with the sun hitting it the same way the sun is hitting the subject.
I carry an Incident Light meter which basically does the same thing but I find it easier to use.
Interesting to note, Kodak 18% gray cards will reflect the equal amount of light that they receive.
home brewer wrote:
Has any one used one and were the results good? I met a man that had one on a lens on his canon camera. He liked it a lot.
When would I use one?
It is a good and inexpensive way to start. You have to watch your exposures as some variable ND filters do not come with an exposure guide.
As you get into that you may want to switch to more standard fixed ND filters.
Timmie wrote:
I want to shoot auction Photos of school games and matches, I would like to share them with the kids and Parents, maybe a website or something not sure yet. Is their a issue with Privacy Laws ? What are the Privacy Laws with posting pictures ?
I always worked through the Athletic Director of the school. I would shoot the shots and get them to him/her and then the school would post to the schools website. I always told the school all I wanted was a photo credit. The school could do what they wanted with them. TOOK ME COMPLETELY OFF THE HOOK. So to speak.
RayF wrote:
I have a Promaster model 7150 tripod. The weight limit is listed as 11 pounds.
When I try to use it with a Canon 80D with a Tamron 200-500 lens it will not hold the setup in an upward pointing orientation.
I weigh the camera/lens at 5 pounds. Any thoughts as to what the problem may be.
Thank You
Depends on how you are mounting your rig. Are you using the tripod collar on the lens to attach it to the tripod? Or are you using the 1/4 20 thread on the bottom of the camera to mount on the tripod?
What head are you using? A ball head will present problems with long lenses.
A Gimbal type head is best for long lenses. You can adjust them so the lens camera combo is balanced and then there is no forward or backward motion.
Below is a link to an inexpensive one. However, I believe MT Shooter also carries inexpensive ones that may fit your needs. If he will sell you one is another story.
https://www.amazon.com/Neewer-Professional-Panoramic-Arca-Swiss-13-6kilogram/dp/B01M262LLV/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=wimberely+type+tripod+head&qid=1571136240&sr=8-3-spell
eskimoky wrote:
Hi I just got a smoking deal on a beseler universal 45 and a cambo view camer with a 150 Mm lens with a copal shutter at a thrift store ,both look immaculate! I love my digital pentax's but the idea of manually setting up each pic and using composition big time is very appealing to me,I will now dust off my medium format cameras as well as my 35mm film cameras,now the question is,how do you Hogg's divide your time between digital and film?
It all depends on what you enjoy doing most.
Timothy S wrote:
Hi, my name is Tim, and this is my first time on here. I have a question about shutter speed. I have read that the common rule of thumb for handheld shutter speed is that a reasonably steady handheld shot should turn out well (if subject is fairly still) using 1/100 second with 100mm, 1/50 with 50mm, 1/200 at 200mm, and so on. Then those numbers could be adjusted as well for image stability equipment. My question is how does a cropped sensor work into that? If I have a 1.6 cropped sensor using 55mm, does that rule apply as 55mm (about 1/60+) or, since the sensor produces effectively 88mm, does the shutter speed need to be about 1/100+?
Hi, my name is Tim, and this is my first time on h... (
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The general rule of thumb is a MINIMUM shutter speed of 1/focal length of the lens. So, if you have a 100 mm lens, the minimum shutter speed would be 1/100 sec. and so on.
However, with VR and other systems to help the camera maintain vibration reduction this rule does not always hold true.
And it depends on if you want to stop action, take that 100 mm lens, if you want to stop action a shutter speed of 1/1000 sec. or more would be needed.
That rule is a minimum to ensure a sharp image and take away any body movement of the photographer.
So, at 88mm then, yes, the minimum shutter speed should be 1/100 sec. or higher, to be safe.
Good luck and keep on shooting until the end.
amfoto1 wrote:
The Sigma and Tamron 100-400s
are not identical in features.
If it were me, I'd buy the Tamron for one reason, for one thing that makes it different from the Sigma... The Tamron lens can optionally be fitted with a tripod mounting ring. It sells separately for $129, adding to the cost of the lens, but I wouldn't want a 400mm without a tripod ring.
Sigma doesn't offer a tripod ring for their 100-400mm and the lens isn't designed to fit one. Yes, there are some third party rings made for it ("iShoot" and "Elefront" are two brands). But those fit around the control pod of the lens, so it will not be rotatable to a portrait orientation (one of the primary purposes of a tripod mounting ring). The "Koebele Stativschellen" ring pictured above appears to allow rotation, but it's made of plastic:
https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B07GCX56GM Further, the latest Tamron tripod rings, including the one for this lens, all have a built in dovetail to be compatible with Arca-Swiss quick release platforms. That saves having to buy a separate Arca-style lens plate (if you use the Arca-style QR system). Depending upon size and quality, those sell for between $30 and $50. Replacement tripod rings or ring feet costing from $75 to $150 or more from third party manufacturers and are another way to adapt some lenses to be able to use the Arca-style QR system. Since these are unnecessary in this case, the cost of the optional tripod ring might seem pretty reasonable.
The Sigma and Tamron 100-400s u are not /u ident... (
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Interesting, I shoot daily in Florida wetlands with a Nikon 200-500 on a D500 at a field of view of 750mm HAND HELD with no need for a tripod collar because I do not use a tripod.
I shoot at about 1/3000 to 1/4000 sec. and get tack sharp images. Many of use use this method without any deprivation in image quality.
So many photographers are convinced they have to put any telephoto on a tripod to get sharp images and it JUST AIN'T SO.
Good luck and keep on shooting until the end.
PS. Enjoy your lens and get out there and shoot.
WDCash wrote:
That Heron with the fish tail eye patch is priceless.
Thank you. Glad you liked it. Yeah, he played with that fish for about 10 minutes before he finally swallowed it. He was turned in the opposite direction and someone opened up with a load motor drive and he turned around, that's when I shot.
nadelewitz wrote:
If one does not use a tripod or monopod, then what need is there for an L-bracket at all?
Exactly!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Silverrails wrote:
I think there is some validation to the thinking that buying your Memory Cards from a reputable Photography / Video store, there is much less chance of aquiring a Memory Card(s) that are defective.
Not that there is a possibility that a Defective Memory card could possibly show up anywhere.
SanDisk now comes with a free two year subscription to rescuePRO as a free download when you purchase a SanDisk memory card. So, it appears that they even acknowledge that things do happen.
dyximan wrote:
What do you think would be a good shutter speed and or other settings to get a sense of motion while shooting the blue angles passing infant of the Golden Gate bridge/ Blurring bridge sharp plane?
1/30 sec. The key is to continue to move the camera while you shoot. also try 1/15 of a second