That's way better than what I said, and only 8 words. Wish I thought of it first, so you win.

Just like I have the right to say you offend me by trying to censor everything you don't agree with. Go be politically correct someplace else, you're ruining my country.

I don't know if this will work where you live, but while I lived in L.A. there were many small PC stores, family owned Mom & Pop type places and local chains that maybe owned just a couple stores. I bought PCs from them because you could spec. every single part for them to build a PC and their prices were very close to what just the parts would've cost you (even with good on-line prices). It's worth checking out because it avoids the many small problems you have to work out yourself when you buy parts from 5 different places and integrate them yourself (which can be kind of fun if you're in the mood and have time to spare).

If you build yourself,
Asus makes nice motherboards,
Corsair makes nice power supplies,
Every Logitech accessory I ever bought worked out real well.
Other companies make good stuff too, but I favor major name brands. Good Luck.

The difference is when you are looking through a mirrorless viewfinder, the screen on the back of a mirrorless, or liveview on a DSLR, you are looking at an image that came from the camera's sensor and was processed into a video type signal to display on a screen, but when you look through the optical viewfinder in a DSLR you see the real world through a series of lenses. Supposedly, the mirrorless system (or live view) better shows how over or under exposed a capture will turn out buy simply looking at it. On the other hand, the DSLR system responds instantly when following moving subjects. I think that's the high points, there are lots of other differences.

D300 is not full frame. You seem to be headed towards an expensive mistake here.

But, yes, you would want full-frame lenses to get any benefit from a full-frame camera (with some arcane & limited exceptions that people could argue about for no good reason).

When that car is moving forward with the hood panels removed, the area just in front of the firewall would likely be a high air pressure zone. In that case, better performance with the air intake facing the high pressure zone. Some testing would be warranted, and perhaps that was already done. Yes, I am a retired USAF aeronautical engineer. After a few beers, we make bets on stuff like this. Great car, I like the photo too.

There's a lot of good advice in this thread, and I especially agree with Nadelewitz's "ALL-IMPORTANT" opinion. Curious nobody mentioned their hand size, kind of obvious that it makes a difference. I have medium size hands. I bought a Sony NEX-5n, then later an a6000, because they're easy to pack & travel with, but I often wish for one more control dial, a couple of more buttons, and a place to grip with my pinkie finger. I can see where somebody with large hands would regret buying a NEX-5n or an a6000. Recently picked up a Nikon Z7, and my medium hands seem an excellent fit for that or for a larger camera.

35mm film SLRs back in the day were smaller than most DSLRs now, but they also had fewer controls & displays. Bottom line, already repeated many times here, you need to actually have the camera in your hands to know if it will fit.

I don't think so. After mounting an FTZ, the Z7 is still quite a bit smaller and lighter than my D750 (which is not a really big, heavy piece of kit anyway). You could check this out yourself at a camera store for less money than I spent.

I believe Huawei admitted they should have noted that the photo was taken with a DSLR instead of with their cell phone like they claimed in their advertisement all three times they got caught with three different ads.
It seems like a simple enough concept, but you are trying to confuse the issue to defend a proven liar. Are you a Huawei employee? Congrats on your marketing career, but what you just wrote is not helping to advance understanding here, and not making marketing look like a good thing.
My wife has a marketing degree, and she doesn't do business like that.

Look for this in the user manual to get the exact wording (and it's only about a paragraph or two), but yes it's "automatic." Supposedly, the camera VR cooperates with the lens VR to give you really good 3-axis VR with F mount lenses. Z mount lenses so far don't have VR and depend on the camera to provide 5-axis VR. I guess if you wanted to turn the VR off, you'd have to do that both on the lens and in the camera.

Heirloom. You already knew that.

Based on the difficulties I've had upgrading to Windows 10, and installing major updates as well, I think it's likely Win 10 will not install on those PCs. My Dell XPS 8700 is not even 4 years old, and was designed for Win 8, but came with Win 7 installed and a free copy of Win 8 on a DVD (everybody hated Win 8 if you remember). Around the time the free upgrade to Win 10 was about to expire (Fall of 2015 or 2016) I did manage to get the upgrade to work but it involved some really time consuming research and manual workarounds, not the normal automated process. While doing this I learned that Dell considered my XPS 8700 as being too old and therefore not Windows 10 compatible. If those "new" Win 7 boxes are older than Jan 2015 there may be a lot of work involved to upgrade, and it might not work at all.

Dell did used to list Win 10 ready models on their website (and my XPS 8700 was not listed there, but I did eventually get it working), so if Jerry can get the correct model numbers that part of the research should be quick and easy, if not exactly conclusive.

I'm certainly not a Win 10 fanboy, but I wouldn't be interested in those old Optiplex Win 7 PCs.

The Woolworth's 5 & 10 in my neighborhood didn't have a lunch counter back then, but the Kresge's 5 & 10 did. By the time I was a teen, Kresge's was gone. We know their successor as Kmart, soon also to be gone. We did have one Coke machine nearby that was still only a nickel.

The user manuals for Olympus cameras have a much better explanation of this than anything I've seen from Nikon. If you've got the time, download one of them and read the section on RAW files, *.ORF in Olympus-ese. You could skip the rest of this post because it will be me blathering about stuff you already know, but I can't help it.

WB, and all the other stuff that can be adjusted in Nikon "Picture Controls," makes no difference in what is recorded in RAW file image data. The RAW file does save those Picture Control camera settings, but they are only used after the fact when producing a .jpg file (or a TIFF file) with the original camera settings. If you change WB, for example because you mentioned it (and for sure you were thinking correctly), when processing the RAW file you get the exact same result as if you had gone back in time and taken that shot with the camera with the new, different WB setting. Obviously, when you further process a .jpg file, and change those as-originally-shot camera settings, you get some degradation.

It's not easy or fast, but it is inexpensive (and it's the only way to know for sure that a backup works) to simply restore the backup to someplace where you have enough empty disk space and check that your data isn't scrambled.