Posts for: LarryFB
Nov 3, 2019 09:50:15 #
PHRubin wrote:
As an engineer, I object! The guy was a jackass.
Oct 25, 2019 14:19:01 #
Mac wrote:
There is a Post Production forum section. https://www.uglyhedgehog.com/s-116-1.html
Post processing is just one of the activities relating to photography that involves my computer. For example, if there is an update to my camera's software, I use my computer to download the update, save it to an SD card, and update my camera from the SD card. According to Nikon, this is the procedure.
So let's just agree to disagree.
Oct 25, 2019 13:52:31 #
rmorrison1116 wrote:
Doesn't look like Main Photography Discussion material, to me.
I disagree, if you post process on a Mac it most certainly Main Photography Discussion material. My Mac is important to my photography hobby. To state this differently, a computer is critical to Digital Photography.
Oct 12, 2019 00:00:40 #
GoofyNewfie wrote:
Yep.
That’s what happens when you’re too close and why the recommended portrait lens length is twice that if the “normal” lens for a given camera. With yours, normal is about 35mm, so a 75 (or 85) would be ideal. The long end of your zoom would have been better.
That’s what happens when you’re too close and why the recommended portrait lens length is twice that if the “normal” lens for a given camera. With yours, normal is about 35mm, so a 75 (or 85) would be ideal. The long end of your zoom would have been better.
A wide angle lens is not what you want for portraits!
Sep 15, 2019 18:20:10 #
The negative size for 35mm is 24mm X 36mm. Your scans are 52.7mm X 35.2 which is the same aspect ratio as 35mm but certainly about 50% larger. Interesting but I don't know the answer your question.
I might help if you state what software you are using.
I might help if you state what software you are using.
Sep 5, 2019 15:36:41 #
cdayton wrote:
I recently took some aerial photos of the Maine coast (Sony a6000, if it matters). Both images are of the Pemaquid Point lighthouse. The first clearly shows the cliffs going down to the water but the second has lost the perspective. Any suggestions on how to correct this with post processing?
The first one was taken from the water side. The second one was taken on the other side.
It appears that some of the rocks are actually higher than the lighthouse and that's what is prominent in the second shot.
Two different shots taken from different locations, that, I believe is the major difference.
Aug 23, 2019 11:12:57 #
Imageandart wrote:
Does anyone know why manufacturers don't use the correct focal length on their lenses for crop sensors? Why do we have to constantly figure that a lens marked 18-200mm is in actuality a 27-300mm lens with a 1.5 crop factor?
Focal length is a parameter of the lens and actually has nothing to due with the size of the sensor. So you lens is a zoom lens that can go from a focal length of 18mm to a focal length of 200mm. It make no difference what camera you use, you lens is an 18-200 mm lens and always will be.
Aug 20, 2019 12:46:15 #
Soxgizmo wrote:
Hi my name is Vicky & I love to take photos of almost anything. But I have tried to take pics of the moon, & I can see more details with the naked eye, than when I take a pic. Can anyone tell me what setting I need to use to take a great pic. I have a Canon D3400, I know it is me not knowing what settings I need to use to make my moon pictures turn out more that a bright glow in the dark. Help please...
I see a lot of good suggestions. The best one is to use the Sunny 16 rule (shutter speed 1/ISO and f/16). However, a slightly better rule might be the Luny 11 rule (shutter speed 1/ISO and f/11).
These are old "Rules of Thumb" and date back well before digital cameras, but they work! Notice that the two rules differ by only 1 exposure value. Of course with a digital camera, set the camera, take the photo, chimp (review the photo on the camera LCD) and then adjust the exposure as needed.
If you don't use a tripod, use a shutter speed of 1/lens focal length in mm, and adjust the aperture as needed to have the same exposure value as given to one of the two rules above.
Trying to use the camera light meter to determine the exposure in this case just won't work. Also, shooting a full moon will not show many of the details because of the flat lighting, shooting something less that a full moon (3/4 moon, half moon, etc.) will show shadows on the moon and provide more emphasis on the moon's features.
I am always surprised that many experienced photographers have never heard of the two rules I mention. They have been around for probably a century or more and they still work!
Aug 19, 2019 11:47:33 #
DaveyDitzer wrote:
I bought a lens that was advertised as manufacturer refurbished. I assume (no bad jokes please) that this meant Nikon USA refurbished, but re-examining the listing it did not specify USA Nikon. Do other Nikon facilities overseas offer refurbs? The lens S/N begins with a "6" but no mention of "USA or US". Nikon USA has yet to respond to my query. Appreciate what comments you can offer.
Although I don't have the list, there is a list of Nikon serial numbers and for what area in the world they would be sold. Remember, all Nikon cameras of a given model are made in the same factory, that is probably the same for lenses. However, there are also Nikon distribution companies, like Nikon USA, Nikon Canada, etc.
I can't speak for any of these distribution companies except for Nikon USA. In general, Nikon USA will not even service products that they didn't import, warranty or not. You may have heard the term "Grey Market." In the USA, it means a Nikon product that was not imported by Nikon USA.
If I remember right, Nikon USA serial numbers usually start with 3. I suspect that the lens is most likely grey market. Now that doesn't mean that the quality of the product is any different, it only means that Nikon USA will not repair or work on the item.
Aug 11, 2019 11:24:12 #
Bird Dawg wrote:
Y'all may think I'm crazy but I never shoot RAW. The question to the group is - Am I the only one who shoots JPEG all the time? ( with very little adjusting in LR )
A few years ago, our photography club invited a "professional photographer' to address the club. He has his own gallery, he sells his prints, and seems to make decent money. When he told the audience he only shot JPEG there were several people who gasped. He also sometimes used a point and shoot, and usually shot AUTO. The exception was when he had a shot with lighting that was complex, or when he couldn't get what he wanted; then he would change modes. He still insisted that most of his shots were shot in AUTO mode.
He also mentioned that he did only minor post processing!
Jul 30, 2019 14:37:59 #
MRHooker2u wrote:
I am trying to get a better grasp of long exposure... (show quote)
I suspect you need to learn more about exposure and how ISO, shutter speed, and aperture relate. The exposure you listed might work if you are shooting a very dim lit subject, kind of like a street scene at night where you want to have head light and tail lights of cars as streaks of light in your photo.
Jul 29, 2019 20:21:47 #
repleo wrote:
The AoV of a 275mm depends on the sensor size which is exactly my point. Do you use your 275mm because you know its AoV from experience or because you measured the length of the lens?. Do you know what 275mm is in inches?
I understand your frustration! I spent decades (probably 5) shooting 35mm film. When I finally switched to digital it became very confusing. I finally figured it out, but it took a while. I still think is terms of what a 300mm lens will do with a full frame camera, but I also know that is the equivalent of a 450mm lens on my Nikon D5100.
I hate the term "crop sensor." The term "crop sensor" was probably a term that was created by camera manufacturers to sell cameras with the idea that you are getting something special at a low cost! After 6 years of using a D5100, I now know the difference.
I agree, focal length has nothing to do with the camera, only the lens.
As an aside, I do know that 1 inch is equal to 25.4 mm, who cares! It's the photo that matters!
Jul 29, 2019 19:39:11 #
Jul 25, 2019 00:41:27 #
AndyH wrote:
Okay, I know this might be controversial, but I'm ... (show quote)
and I subscribe to quite a few of the mainstream popular photographers as well, but there are some much lower profile photographers, gear hounds, and critics out there who are worth a view or two. I'll start with a few of my "unknown" favorites:Frankly, I don't waste much of my time on uTube, I prefering shooting photos and seeing what works and doesn't work. If I'm having a major issue with a specific task that I can't seem to solve, then I may try to google the issue and see if I can get some new ideas.
Photography isn't about reading about methods that other people use (although that can be helpful) to me it's more about the challenge of obtaining a great photo.
Jun 16, 2019 15:47:59 #
If they were the last photos you imported, go to the library module, on the top left of the screen the first item is called catalogue, under that heading is a folder called "previous import." Check the previous import folder.
That may or may not help.
OR using the finder under FILE select Find (or press command-F) enter on of the photo's name, and it will search you computer for that file.
That may or may not help.
OR using the finder under FILE select Find (or press command-F) enter on of the photo's name, and it will search you computer for that file.