Dikdik Loc: Winnipeg, Canada

I'm using an Epson V550 scanner, and, am really pleased with it.

I’ve finished scanning my 35mm negatives and am now scanning my 2-1/4 ones.
I’m using Home mode, since auto doesn’t function with this. I’m scanning for content just to see what I have and then will address any pictures I want to keep once I see what I have.

Settings for home mode:
color negative file
600 dpi

Settings for Configuration
Thumbnail Cropping Area Small
Medium Format Size 6x6

I’ve run into an issue. The scans crop to 52.7mm x 35.2mm which I assume is for 35 mm film. The thumbnails show the entire negative surface scan with a ‘box’ cropping it to 52.7x35.2, I assume. Is there a manner of removing the automatic cropping? The cropping sometimes removes parts of the photo I want. Should I be using something other than home mode? or, is there something that I can set?

I know I can change the size of the 'box'; is it possible to rotate it?

I’ve tried just about everything.

Thanks, Dik

LarryFB Loc: Depends where our RV is parked

The negative size for 35mm is 24mm X 36mm. Your scans are 52.7mm X 35.2 which is the same aspect ratio as 35mm but certainly about 50% larger. Interesting but I don't know the answer your question.

I might help if you state what software you are using.

Dikdik Loc: Winnipeg, Canada

Sorry... I'm using the Epson scan software that came with the scanner. Interesting that the scan size is 2400x3600 pixels which is the same as 4x6 at 600 dpi. I cannot find anywhere where I set the size at 4x6. I should be able to rotate the 'window' but to no avail.

Thanks, Dik

rmcgarry331

When using Epson Scan software especially when scanning negatives use Professional Mode. Home mode sets too many parameters automatically, that you can change in Professional mode. Also scan negatives at 4000 dpi or higher for 35mm and at least 1200 dpi for medium format. Professional mode also gives you control of Digital ICE, which reduces the amount of dust spots that you need to attack in post processing.

burkphoto Loc: High Point, NC

There are many YouTube videos on this... Here’s some:

https://youtu.be/Qwav1vbAwdg

https://youtu.be/tqI5CHNm34k

https://youtu.be/6K9dO1lU5Qs

Your scanner will work with VueScan or SilverFast software, too.

Good luck!

Dikdik Loc: Winnipeg, Canada

Thanks... I'll do that for selected photos. The quality of the scans for the 2-1/4 negatives is much better than for the 35mm... a lot less degradation. These negatives are only 40 years old and not 50 or more. I downloaded the manual last night and I'll see what professional mode has to offer.

Added... I'll set the resolution as high as I can... disk space and speed is not an issue. Again thanks.

Dik

Dikdik Loc: Winnipeg, Canada

Thanks very much for the links... I've not done very much post processing... just a guy with a camera, and not a cell phone. My 35mm were taken using my old Nikon F2 and the 2-1/4s by a beaten up old Roliflex.

Again, thanks...

Dik

John_F Loc: Minneapolis, MN

My Epson scanner’s software allows one to adjust the scan area when in Preview. Just hover the cursor over a side or corner of the dotted lines and you will get an arrow, hand, box to drag.

burkphoto Loc: High Point, NC

What matters when scanning is not the dpi setting, but the total image dimensions in FILE pixels. You will have to set a different (higher) dpi for 35mm film than for 6x4.5, or 6x6, or 6x7, or 6x9, to achieve the same print resolution.

Measure the Target Size in PIXELS, rather than inches. Adjust the dpi setting (how many samples will be taken from each inch of the original film) to get the pixel dimensions for the largest print you want to make. Leave the Scale at 100%.

Figure a minimum of 240 PPI for an 8x10 inch print (1920x2400 pixels). 300 PPI would be better, to allow for a little cropping (2400x3000 pixels). SMALLER prints will need 300 PPI (5x7) or 400 PPI (4x6). LARGER prints most often will need fewer pixels, because you view them from a greater distance.

A 6000x4000 pixel scan will make a nice 30x20 inch print, or anything smaller.

DO NOT confuse dpi with PPI. They are completely different concepts! dpi refers to the original copy sitting on the scanner bed — how many samples per inch of film does the scanner record? PPI refers to how many pixels in the file created by the scanner (or camera) will be spread over each inch of OUTPUT (i.e.; print).

PRINTER dpi is the number of dots of ink or spots of light that will *represent* (reproduce) the pixels in the file. Different printing technologies use different numbers of dots to achieve similar visual resolution.

Dots have dimensions, while pixels are just numbers representing brightness values in three colors. You can reproduce the same file of pixels at any size you want (although at resolutions lower than 240 PPI, the image will appear "jaggy" at close viewing distances). Or, you can interpolate a file to other dimensions... that maintains the same PPI reproduced, by creating fake pixels around the real ones, or by combining adjacent pixels and eliminating some to form a smaller version of the scene.

burkphoto Loc: High Point, NC

Another issue is the lack of autofocus in flatbed scanners. IF your film holder has adjustable "feet" on it, try them at every setting with the same negative to see if you can optimize focus.

Even with proper film holder height, you may find that you need to apply a lot of sharpening in post-production. This is most apparent with 35mm scans, due to the increase in required magnification, compared to 6x4.5, 6x6, 6x7, or 6x9 cm.

Dikdik Loc: Winnipeg, Canada

Thanks for the clarification and information/caution. I'll be scanning them at the highest PPI that I can. File size and processing time is a minor concern. Even with 35mm negatives, on high resolution the file sizes are upwards of 30MB... not a concern.

Dik

Dikdik Loc: Winnipeg, Canada

Without autofocus, the scans come out really quite clear... not like my old enlarger, but, pretty good. I'm really impressed with the V550 and am thinking about upgrading it... staying with Epson. My old Epson scanner downstairs is about 30 years old, and it's worked well.

Dik

dsmeltz Loc: Philadelphia

burkphoto Loc: High Point, NC

The V600 is a small step up. Significantly, it adds Digital ICE.


The V800 and V850 are much better. Both add SilverFast SE software. The V850 comes with X-Rite tools for color management. You can add accessories for wet-mounting film.

You may also wish to check out the Plustek OpticFilm 8200 Ai (35mm) and Pacific Image PrimeFilm 120 Pro Multi-Format CCD Film Scanner. Dedicated film scanners tend to produce sharper, more highly detailed images than flatbeds. However, they can cost a lot more.

Bobspez Loc: Southern NJ, USA

I didn't care for the software removal of dust and tiny fibers on my scans with my CanoScan 8800F scanner. I got good results with the Healing Brush Tool in Photoshop. It uses the surrounding image to mask the dust and fiber or scratch marks. The automatic software made my images look like they had tiny bandaids.