I personally would not shoot any slower than 1/500 because you will definitely see motion blur in the appendages. Try to find positions where the action will be coming towards you so that you can fill up the frame. If you crop, the noise will become even more prevalent. Using noise suppression in post processing will also help but be careful because you can easily loose detail by using too much.
Isn't photography art. Don't we compose like a painter using leading lines, rule of thirds, negative space, etc. Was Da Vinci's paintings better than Monet's since it looked more "real". I think it comes down to are we "recording" a moment like a photo journalist would or are we "creating" what we feel at that moment.
I would agree with Anthony P, #7 is your strongest image in the set. Cool sequence of the action. Well done.
I have heard the Tamron is very good, but focus is quite a bit slower than the Nikon. I have the Nikon and am very happy with it. I use it along with my D810 for portrait, landscape, and sports shooting and have not been disappointed.
Lightroom 5 does a good job and you have the ability to batch process many files at once.
Topaz Denoise is also good but takes more time.
DXO OpticsPro 10 does a great job but once again runs fairly slow.
If I have a single image that I know I will print large, I will use the DXO program, otherwise, Lightroom 5 is good enough.
You might check to see if the drivers to your video card are up to date.
Very beautiful capture. Here is my attempt at processing your image.
I have the Sigma 15mm fisheye and it is one of my favorite lenses. I always have it in my bag ready for action.
A monopod does take the weight off, but I feel that it restricts me too much, especially with the smaller lenses such as the 70-200. I would definitely use the monopod on a 400 2.8, but with anything smaller, I will hand hold just for the nimbleness. I guess it just comes down to what you are comfortable with and what you are willing to give up.
From what I could gather from the tech, turning off the VR sets/ locks it into position so that it will not be damaged when removing or attaching the lens. He said the amount of force it takes to damage the VR is very minimal. Like I said, not really sure how true it is, but I do practice this just in case. Nikon does not do their repairs very cheaply.
Not sure if this is still the case, but about two years ago, a camera repair guy told me to make sure the VR was turned off before changing lenses in order to prevent any damage to the VR mechanism.
If you decide to use the studio strobes, there is the option of a battery pack like the Paul C. Buff Vagabond Mini Lithium. DC power will not electrocute anybody if it happens to fall in the water.
Finally had a chance to shoot some wrestling this year. It seems like one of the tougher sports to capture faces and having to deal with color cast and lighting due to the mats.
Fantastic timing on both shots.