BebuLamar wrote:
At the minimum an image file must contain 3 values for each pixel. One for red, one for green and one for blue. The JPEG met this requirement.
The RAW file however only contain 1 value for each pixel. That is the most significant difference between RAW and any other image file format.
Raw also contains 3 values for each pixel.
bsprague wrote:
Quick glance. It seems like an advanced from of presets. I'm not yet sure what I will do with them as I've not been a user of presets.
I like that the Dehaze slider moved to the Basic panel!
The profiles can be included in a preset.
ingestamatic
http://basepath.com/site/detail-Ingestamatic.php
Most cameras on the market have enough megapixels unless you are going to print large.
I think an important feature that will help you to get good exposures is a live histogram.
Someone else mentioned image stabilization. I would agree with that. Other items mostly covere by other answers
Rongnongno wrote:
Either your image is in focus or it is not. Any sharpening will not add or improve anything at all.
Set ACR default sharpening to 0. Leave the color alone.
Use ACR clarity in small dose...
Open the image.
Duplicate the background
Transform onto a smart object
Set Blend mode to Luminosity
Push the clarity way up (about 50)
Decrease Saturation to 0.
If needed use a level layer.
That alone will create the sharpness you crave.
Bad advice.
Capture sharpening is needed any camera that uses a Bayer array (most cameras). It has nothing to do with whether the image is in focus.
Following is from: https://www.cambridgeincolour.com/tutorials/image-sharpening.htm
(1) Capture sharpening aims to address any blurring caused by your image's source, while also taking image noise and detail into consideration. With digital cameras, such blurring is caused by the camera sensor's anti-aliasing filter and demosaicing process, in addition to your camera's lens. Capture sharpening is required for virtually all digital images, and may be applied automatically by the camera for photos which are saved as JPEG files. It also ensures the image will respond well to subsequent rounds of sharpening.
Robert Bailey wrote:
"Boszik"- when you set bracketing on a Nikon it changes the shutter speed for each shot, not the aperture. It doesn't matter if you are in aperture priority or shutter priority mode.
Not true. I just put my Nikon D810 in shutter priority mode and did 3 shot bracket. Got 3 images: f5, F10, F20 all at same shutter speed (1/13 sec)
JimH123 wrote:
Understand that there are a number of different stacking techniques, and each one is for a specific purpose.
1. Focus Stacking - already mentioned, allows a series of images where the point is changed from image to image to product a resultant image that has a broader focus range.
2. HDR - already mentioned, a method to take several images using different setting to capture a broader dynamic range.
3. Super Resolution - a number of images that are stacked to allow a resultant image to have greater resolution. See PhotoAcute.
4. Reducing noise - A stacking method to increase the signal to noise ratio resulting in much lower noise. Many cameras can do this in camera. Also used for astrophotography.
Understand that there are a number of different st... (
show quote)
Another form of stacking is Long Exposure stacking. Here you talk multiple shots of the same scene, each with some time separation and then use software such as photoshop that will AVERAGE them. This actually reduces the noise and creates a long exposure.
Sony has a Play Memories App called "Smooth Reflection" that you can use in-camera that produces a raw file. Here is an article about it. https://www.slrlounge.com/long-exposure-photography-without-using-a-filter/
rgrenaderphoto wrote:
You are better off having a rectangular ND filter than a screw on type.
This is not necessarily true.
You may may get good results in Lightroom or other post-processing software using its graduated filter rather than a hardware graduated filter.
In Lightroom you can 'erase' the effect of the graduated filter in parts of the image that don't need it.
Circular ND filters can be used with Xume magnetic filter adapters. Besides being very easy to change/add filters they have the advantage of not physically disturbing the focus
when working with a zoom lens. When working with a dark (10 stop+) filter you usually add the filter after composing and focusing.
When using Xume adapters, inexpensive rubber lens hoods can be used.
https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/search?Ntt=xume&N=0&InitialSearch=yes&sts=ma&Top+Nav-Search=
fourg1b2006 wrote:
Can someone please explain to me what is Back Focus Button. I have a Canon 7D and their is nothing in the manual about it.
How To Use AF-On And Back Button Autofocus - YouTube
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FzqQskGoURE
lamiaceae wrote:
I've tried to figure that out, why Nikon has to be mysterious and not just use ISO values though out. My Pentax cameras are pretty direct about what they mean. Though if the actual values are what they are implying, that is a fantastically wide range for the D750!
These are 'extra' isos beyond the hardware capability of the camera. They are accomplished by software processing in the camera and artificially extend the dynamic range. You are either sacrificing highlights or increasing noise when these settings are used.
You probably need a better ball head.
mborn wrote:
when you switch to crop mode on an FX camera your image has less Mp Nikon D810 goes from 36 Mp to 24 Mp
That is not correct. It goes from 36mp to 16 megapixels. Divide by the square of the crop factor.
The first thing you need to do is set the diopter.
murphle wrote:
I usually shoot in aperture priority but also use manual..... let me ask this. When utilizing BBF, it removes focus from the shutter button. What then is the shutter button doing if you press it halfway? It's reading light, right?
Yes, it is doing the exposure.
Shoot in manual and the exposure will be locked