Squirrel, I have been taking moving boat pictures for about 60 years when I bought my first good camera, a Voigtlander model Vito II. I don't remember the film number but the negatives were 2.25"x2.25"; after that camera was stolen, probably 1964, I replaced it with basically the same camera but in 35mm., then a Canon AE-1 with a telephoto lens that had a 200mm max focal length. For the past 12 years I've been using a Canon 60D with a Tamron f/3.5-5.6 70-300 lens .

AS has been mentioned before we really need to see a couple of the "problem" photos and the data to make good recommendations, but I suspect some of your problems are due to settings: Auto focus (which one?), shutter speed?, ISO?, and the light metering mode for starters. What settings are you using?

My favorite venues now are the Choptank and Tred Avon River Log Canoe races, and the Power Boat Races I haven't noticed the problems you mention.

Because I'm getting older and my hands are not as steady as they were, I always shoot with a higher speed than would be expected. I set a fixed shutter speed with a Min. of 1/500-800 (depending on conditions) for the canoes and around +/- 1/1200 for the power boats, but as sea conditions get worse, and I'm also doing more rock and rolling. I have no hesitation in pushing the SS up to 1000+ for the canoes and 1/1500-2000 for the Hydroplanes and Jersey skiffs. I'm looking for prints that are very sharp; if there is blur be it from "artistic", "subject" or "shooter motion", I consider it not good. When I stop the prop of a Jersey skiff in the air, that's great shot.

Since I fix the shutter speed, I let the camera pick the f/stop. ISO is usually limited to the 100 - 400 range. If it changes towards a dull , overcast day or the sun starts to set I may increase it, but generally races are finished or called long before the natural light needs ISO help. Focus points and metering: for 90% of my shooting I use the center spot selection for both. I don't want to waste time fussing with settings when there are pictures to be shot.

Jim

Almost Airborne


At the Windward Mark


Oldest #4 (1882) & #15 (1931)

And that old tale is mostly true, but on the other hand so are most hobbies, like your Rods. Of course if you are into historic antique cars there is no upper cost limit.

Fortunately I can still afford the moderate cost of my boat, and it gives me an escape and cheap vacations!

Actually it doesn't look to be in too bad a shape, but it definitely needs some TLC care, new wood and labor, but it is a totally different skill set than working on a house, but if the owner has boat building/repairing skills and time, it could be made usable, but would he want to put that time, money and effort into an old wooden hull? The final cost may approach that of a new or maintained fiberglass hull. I put a lot of time and effort working with my father on his wooden boats, and loved them , but I'm also pragmatic enough to know I'm happier with fiberglass hulls.

Nice shot Bob! I don't often see your composition unless the subject is the rough seas the ship/boat is encountering--been there done that off the Maine coast.

The plane(s) picture is absolutely stunning! I hope it is hanging in your home. Back in the film days I used to fly RC models, but have few pictures of them , but a few years ago I did get a good picture of a Navy Steerman biplane coming in at a local Airdrome. It hangs with my boat pictures.

Thank you, Deb Ann, for looking and your comments. Both pictures were taken with my 60D and a Tamron 70-300 lens. When the sailboats at the windward mark shot was taken we were at least a 1/2 mile, and at that distance I couldn't see the reddish tint on the spars and deck. What a grateful surprise when I saw them in PSE14. However to be honest the color should have had a varnish color, but I couldn't find a tool that gave me that so just enhanced the red tint a wee bit. The rest of the photo has no PP except for some sharpening.
I've shown the print a few times in local galleries, and there doesn't seem to be any middle ground comments; the viewers either like the darker (true to life) color or ask why I made it so dark. It's about a 50-50 split with perhaps a slight preference for the darker sky especially from other photographers. I did make one lighter print with a blueish sky, but to me it doesn't have the impact. Anyone can do a blue sky picture on a nice day, but getting a clear print on a miserable day doesn't happen often.

The Jersey Skiff photo was shot at about 300 yards.

Every photographer has his/her own criteria for "Best Photo" and may be the only person so rating it. It doesn't matter if the photographer thinks is her/his best who's to debate it.

My favorite venue is boat races, sail or power so there is little similarity to many of my "best" shots but am attaching two; you make the calls.

The first photo is of a Log Canoe race on the Tred Avon River in Maryland. These four boats are all trying to round the mark at almost the same time; it shows the skills of the skipper and helmsman or woman that there wasn't an accident or collision. These boats are from a bygone era when similar and a few larger boats were the freight carriers here on the Chesapeake Bay. Most of them are original and several are 100 years old. There are only 12 left still in racing condition of the hundreds that were built in the 1800's. The steamers put them out of business; they were not necessarily faster but carried more cargo.

The second photo is of a Jersey Speed Skiff racing and almost airborne on the Choptank River in Cambridge, MD. If you look closely you will see that only 1/2 of the prop is in the water, and if the picture is really enlarged, the left rear of the hull is just above the water surface.The original boats were designed and built after WW I and with the engines then available could get up to about 30 MPH; with today's engines and flat water, they have been known to about double that speed using a four cycle 225 cu. in. gasoline engine not supercharged.

At the Windward Mark


Almost Airborne

Should you be using the sRGB color selection?? I've been told that the RGB is mostly for high end printing such as color magazine production. Even if your camera software offers the Adobe RGB, can your camera really recognize the finite differences and can the Epson P1900 handle it

The canon 18-135 kit lens and the Tamron 70-300mm zoom are the two lenses I have for my 60D and take them both on trips. Depending upon the type of pictures I expect to shoot, I put what seems most likely to be the best for that day and try not to change them during the day.

The consistency may be ok, but having all the multiple points "talk" to one another and then chose an Average setting for f-stop or focus points may be costing you time between shots, not much but for multiple action shots the delay may cost you the perfect once in a lifetime opportunity especially of kids playing or fast moving sports. I use the center spot only for 95% of my photography.

I agree that Canon's repair charges can seem a bit steep, but I when the camera doesn't work properly due to age or accident sending it back to the OEM is better than some local, or maybe not so local, repair shop is the better choice. I feel confident that their techs know the products well, and are well versed in analyzing exactly what is wrong, know how to make the delicate repairs, have the necessary parts on the shelf and don't use old parts from another camera. The turn around is about one week, and they pay the return freight. I have read and heard some horror stories about other shops, especially when they guarantee their repairs for six months. All those things to me are worth the extra $$.

Hopefully you will only be sending the camera in for repair only once of twice as long as you own it so the 'maintenance costs' over the lifetime are actually a small cost of the ownership.

I'm just a month short of 80 and have been using the 18-135 mm Canon f/ 3.5- 5.6 lens that came with the camera and have no complaints except that it doesn't have enough 'reach'; I solved that with a Tamron 70-300 mm which gives me an effective 460 mm with my Can 60D. I have no need for another but have heard the can be usually found at KEH at a good price.

Hurray, At least one Hog recognizes the problems that us Seniors may experience. In my case is a continually sore almost 80 year old back that makes bending to use a tripod painful so I very seldom use one and instead substitute higher shutter speeds and ISO.

PS--I don't do portraits!

I also think the first shot is too busy. What's the subject or is it just the mass of colors. Perhaps if it were shot from between the two trees some of the foreground would go away.

Years ago my father got tired of continually filling the feeders so instead of hanging the feeders from a tree branch or putting them on a pole, he took them all down and ran a length of piano wire between some trees and hung the feeders from the wire. The wire was so thin that the squirrels couldn't run on it or hang on when they lost a grip. It was a "hoot" watching them try to run on the wire and fall to the ground or try to jump from the ground to the wire, but the feeders were a bit too high. (:< ))