Posts for: Peter Boyd
Feb 11, 2014 08:06:56 #
amehta wrote:
The 18-200mm was the first Nikon superzoom, the 28-300mm followed for FX. If you're only going to have one lens on your camera, I think having the 18-28mm range is very useful. I don't think you should second-guess that decision.
If you're only going to have one lens on your camera why would you go for one that only gives wide angle options?
Pete.
Feb 11, 2014 08:04:54 #
amehta wrote:
With the caveat that I have not used this lens, an... (show quote)
Don't knock it if you haven't used it! I have this lens on a D800 and IMHO the quality is superb, regardless of any in-lab tests DxO mark have carried out, the proof is when you shoot ordinary everyday images. The lens provides a great range of focal lengths from w/a to decent telephoto and is a great 'walk around' lens.
Pete.
Feb 6, 2014 08:40:29 #
Nic42 wrote:
If you are asking when the lens will be available; how have you seen images on this forum taken with it?
He was asking when it would be available for Nikon! Why don't you read the question before jumping down someone's throat?
Jan 29, 2014 09:38:48 #
MtManMD wrote:
Curious how others typically shoot regarding the white balance setting. Do most use, and trust, the camera's Auto WB setting, or do you change the setting based on the type of lighting? I'm wondering if some of my "blah/flat" photos of otherwise decent scenes may be related to the white balance being off. I shoot using a Canon 7D.
I shoot raw, so it doesn't matter what the WB setting is as you adjust it later in pp.
Pete.
Jan 23, 2014 09:17:24 #
LG1 wrote:
My interest with photography began two years... (show quote)
When you engage the Bulb setting the camera meter is de-activated therefore it doesn't matter what meter mode you have set.
Pete.
Jan 22, 2014 16:14:04 #
Armadillo wrote:
Peter,
In your version, you lost the composition of the first post, this was where my eye was drawn. In your version the window is near center of the frame, in the first version the eye is drawn toward the window by the pillars in the right of the frame.
Your image processing of light and shadows is much better than the HDR version. The secret to good HDR is knowing when to stop.
Michael G
In your version, you lost the composition of the first post, this was where my eye was drawn. In your version the window is near center of the frame, in the first version the eye is drawn toward the window by the pillars in the right of the frame.
Your image processing of light and shadows is much better than the HDR version. The secret to good HDR is knowing when to stop.
Michael G
Hi Michael, I did not muck about with the OP's picture, my version is a picture I took last year, that is why the composition is different. I wasn't criticising the OP's picture, just showing a different way of producing a result.
Pete.
Jan 22, 2014 11:16:15 #
MWojton wrote:
Peter, what you did looks great without using HDR. Could you explain to me (in as much detail as you have time for) what you did how long it took (how many different steps)
Thanks
MW
Thanks
MW
Hi MW, I took one shot in raw, metered for the internal light. I then converted the raw file to j-peg in Elements 11. Next I made a selection of the window area using the lasso tool and used a levels adjustment layer to darken the exterior until it was visible instead of just looking white. Then I merged the two layers and added some sharpening. Altogether this took about ten minutes. Another way to achieve the same effect would be to produce 2 raw conversions, one for the interior and one for the exterior, and combine them in Elements.
Pete.
Jan 22, 2014 10:01:54 #
swarfy wrote:
My first pic post ,interested to hear what you reckon
Mick
Mick
Nice effort, but you don't really need HDR for this shot. Here's one I did as a single raw exposure processed in Elements 11, and then used layers and levels to balance the outside light in the window at the end.
Jan 21, 2014 09:00:57 #
LFingar wrote:
Primarily when you are shooting in a highly reflective situation. Water, snow, metalwork, etc. They aren't necessary for every shot but there are times when they are very handy.
Painted metal, yes, bare metal, no.
Jan 11, 2014 11:11:15 #
Fran wrote:
What is your best tip?
Two of mine are:
1. Always face the front of your camera to the floor when changing lenses. This helps to keep dust off the sensor.
2. The little silicone packs which are included in packages are great to toss in your camera bag. They will help absorb any moisture that might occur.
Two of mine are:
1. Always face the front of your camera to the floor when changing lenses. This helps to keep dust off the sensor.
2. The little silicone packs which are included in packages are great to toss in your camera bag. They will help absorb any moisture that might occur.
Never put a wet spoon in sugar - sorry, just a joke.
:lol:
Jan 8, 2014 07:42:10 #
farmerjim wrote:
Steep learning curve means it's difficult to most people and no-one ever says shallow learning curve. That's the way it is, end of :)
You're wrong there - the Captain says it!
Jan 8, 2014 07:29:53 #
ejrmaine wrote:
Not for me, I still prefer to make my own adjustments for White balance, Clarity, etc. to achieve what I saw in the viewer. I'm not comfortable giving up these decisions to a program in my camera.
Personally I enjoy post processing.
Personally I enjoy post processing.
Agree wholeheartedly
:thumbup:
Jan 7, 2014 08:43:59 #
epalaver wrote:
I reduce glare when I photograph flat artwork by polarizing my 2 tungsten light sources plus a "linear" polar filter at right angles on my camera lens. This significantly reduces the amount of light. Would a "circular" poloarizing filter work as well by itself, i.e. without the filters on the light sources?
I assume that you are photographing the artwork at right angles, (i.e. 'square-on'). If so a polarizer in front of the lens on its own will not be effective, as they do not work at 90 degrees. With the light source also polarized then the set up will work effectively - the main reason for using a circular polarizer is that they do not interfere with focusing or metering systems, whereas a linear filter may do.
Jan 5, 2014 12:39:22 #
Weddingguy wrote:
The smudges are definitely NOT lens flare.
Look again pal - it's lens flare.
Jan 3, 2014 10:21:08 #
oldtigger wrote:
My birthday is coming up and i want an 800E.
Convince me i need it.
Convince me i need it.
Go for it - there are no pockets in a shroud!