Sorry...Got carried away some but just get so excited about HDR. It is so rewarding when done well. My images vary some because of the time constraints associated with due dates but when the time of day is right...it gets really fun. Hope I have helped....

Looks like it needs a bit more sharpening...

here is a sample of an HDR taken last week for a real estate shoot in Colorado. I have not done much PP on it except sharpening in Photo Shop and Topaz

When in the field try shooting at different stops of the same scene to see the results on screen. As you do this you will begin to get the feel for the relationship between cam, lens, time of day light, and the sweet spot for your lens. Some lenses are sharper at F16 than at 22 or 32. Also when you stop dn ...if you want to create a star burst with the sun ...wait for the edge of the sun globe to peak out from behind a cloud or tree trunk or mountain top.... etc...there will be a sparkle in your view finder...in your eye...thats when to fire away...and it gets exciting when the results are what you saw in the view finder...makes me want to drop what I am doing and get back out there!!!

The money you would spend on a good filter would be well spent if you intend on staying with old school methods. I think your money would be better spent on HDR software ($100-$130)and learn how to shoot for HDR images. Its the way of the future and when performed properly can make a scene look as natural and better than any single exposure with a grad ND filter. Go to http://www.stuckincustoms.com/ to see for yourself what I am referring to if you don't already know. None-the-less your photos are marvelous. I don't think a grad filter would do you much good at sunrise though because there is not enough light. The dynamic range of light is not broad enough at that time of day for a grad ND filter to have much effect. Sunset is a different matter. Your new camera allows for a broad EV bracketing spread. HDR would be a no brainer with this camera. I no longer use a grad ND filter. Occasionally use a polarizer to kill water reflection but that's it. As an experienced sunrise and sunset photographer I have struggled with lots of techniques and have realized HDR is the best. Just my opinion. BTW...if you are not shooting at the highest f-stop on your lens (F-22 - F32...you you might want to try it when shooting landscapes). It will extend the exposure time but will add a pleasing level of drama to the scene. The sun will sparkle a bit more and the edge of the horizon will be sharper and crisper and generally there will be more detail.....unless you are shooting for a specific effect and don't need this advice? Also are you post processing? The photos seem to need a bit of sharpening. Keep shooting....and have fun!!

As the previous post said HDR IS the quickest way to open up the light on this house. I am frequently faced with this same dilemma on a professional basis. Some times can't wait for better light. Light painting would cause shadows and so would an on cam flash. The attached example of a home shot with the sun in the western sky on June 6th, 4:30 PM, had the same effect as a north facing structure. The dark photo(#5 of 9) was the best average exposure out of 9 for HDR processing. The other is the result of HDR processing 1,3,5,7 and 9 frames out of 9. HDR is quite simple and with post processing in Photo Shop or Elements the results are very acceptable. Hope this helps.

BTW...the photo of the print on wall was taken with a Nikon D300 with flash bounced off ceiling...looks exactly on computer monitor as print on wall

4 & 5 of 5

CS3 Photoshop

I have attached 3 of of 5 images. 2 more coming in next repy

photo of canvas print


original .jpg image

To clarify....I know not to choose "printer manages color" and "PS manages color" at he same time. Its either or...What I meant was that I have done both, not simultaneously, to no avail. I had same problems after spending $800 or so on Genuine Epson ink with my 7600, genuine Epson paper and ICC profiles. Monitor was a CRT Trinitron flat screen. Same unsatisfactory results. My $100 Epson 4020 desktop printer produces better results than the $3000 7600 & 7800 at this time. I am not convinced that the 7600 or 7800 is this sensitive to after market inks and ICC profiles. I must doing something else wrong. I have searched the internet for a setting that would work but no luck. Every one wants to sell you something. Not one to give up easily just more frustrated at how difficult I may be making it. Thanks for your feed back.

I have been struggling with getting an accurate printed image on my 7800 using canvas and lustre media. The monitor is calibrated to the lab that I sub to but the printer seems to not be in sync. I have installed and used an assortment of ICC profiles and have gone through dozens of combinations of printer and Photo shop settings. Printer managed color and Photo Shop managed color. . The media is Epson Lustre, and 3rd party canvas. I am not using genuine Epson Ink. The printer came with a healthy compliment of after market ink. I am using Win 7, 64 bit & Photo Shop CS3. I was hoping someone out there has encountered this same dilemma and has come up with a combo of settings that works on most papers using after market inks.
Any help would be appreciated. Thanks

Thanks to all of you for the excellent advice and information about the D800. I am definitely going to buy one and more than likely a refurb 800E along with the 14-24 2.8 lense. It has been a very frustration experience to view a final print from the D300 knowing it could have been sharper. Now I am hoping my sharpness expectation will be realized with the D800. Happy New Year.

Oh I see...thanks for that. Maybe he will chime in if he sees my post.

never said 30 years of shooting dogs or anything else. Have 35 years in the printing industry...as in offset and such. Shooting dslrs for 5 years....whats your beef eh?

....Hmmmm...pardon my ignorance...what is MTShooter?