When I was an assistant to an architectural Photographer, we carried a large Gitzo tripod in a tube shaped case made for light stands. Flew all over North America without a problem.
If this wedding is your excuse/incentive to get a 750, go for it. If your second shooter is using your other camera, its not your backup. Do you have shoemount flash and flash bracket?
I shoot D90 and D600 Nikon bodies. When I need external flash I use one of my Vivitar 283s that I have from when I used to shoot weddings, events and crime scenes on film.
I have to endorse the Tokina 11-16 f2.8. I use one on my D90. Use it on a tripod and level the camera to avoid rectilinear distortion. Have fun!
This reminds me of photo history class talki g about the pictorialists vs the f64 group in the 1930s. Just do what you have to in order to get the image you want. Make images, not war!
Level your camera. The first rule of architectural photography is level your camera! Use a tripod. Keep the film/sensor plane parallel to the uprights in your image. This keeps you from introducing distortion. A good tripod will be cheaper then a 14mm lens.
Check the Nikon 70-300. Cheap and light. I own one, used on both D600 and D90. I am too old and frugal to want to buy and/or carry a 600mm.
Simple, join PPA and you buy certification.
As this is a pleasure trip, I'd keep things simple. The 7100 with the 18-200. That's it. Add an extra battery or two and a half dozen memory cards. If you have a second body, take it eith the Tamron short zoom. IMHO, free advice is worth what you paid for it.
35mm is the classic Street photographers lens. The whole f1.4 or f1.8 is a throwback tp the low iso Kodachrome era, not necessary in this digital ers
Simple. The moon is in bright sunlight, dame as the earth at noon. ISO 64, 1/500 shutter speed at f5.6 will give you a perfect exposure for lunar surface. Try it, it worked on slide film.
I looked st tjat issue when I had my pu. The answer wsd rv jacks at four corners to lift the truck body off the suspension. Stable as a rock
Used to do a lot of low level helicopter architectural work in the 1970s. Suggest you use something in the 50-200 range, maybe two bodies, one short lens, one long, zoom or prime depending on what you have. Shoot with window or door open or off. Do not shoot through windows. Use 500 or faster shutter speed, keep your hands, arms off the aircraft body and make sure to use a neck strap. Do not push the camera into the slipstream or you may loose it! Try to get a highwing airplane ans shoot to the side or rear oblique angle to avoid struts and landing gear. Happy Landings!
It's a Davis and Sanford tripod head. Works great with an 8x10 Deardorff field camera. I
used both in the early 1970s at Kranzten Studio and Hedrich-Blessing Studio i Chicago. I still have a D&S tripod in my garage.