At the end of the day, a camera and accessories are just tools in the hands of the operator who chose them for the job at hand. If the outcome meets expectations then why beat oneself up worrying about what the other guy might use? I challenge anyone to look at a photo without peaking at the Exif data and tell what camera and lens combo was used. Who cares whether it was a P&S, DSLR, Mirrorless or whatever. The end result speaks for the skill of the operator who knows their craft and equipment.

Whoever told you that tale is totally misinforming you. As far as I am aware there are no Nikon FX/DX DSLRs that can have their batteries charged in situ via their USB connectors.

Yes, I have seen the Nikon default for sharpening set at 3. I rarely use jpg's out of the camera and do the sharpening as and when required in post. Thanks for the info.

I think you may have nailed the problem - that being the way Adobe RGB is being interpreted by the two apps. I will go back and try and convert using sRGB and see if that really us the cause. Come to think of it, monitors, unless specifically made to handle the wider color gamut of Adobe RGB are going to interpret colors slightly differently.

Good idea. First up though, I am using the software on a Windows 10 desktop computer. The color gamut is Adobe RGB. The review photos were taken using Windows Snip and Sketch app and saved as Jpg's. The conversion photos are the outputs of the software apps. The first photo is a screenshot of Capture NX-D, the second is a screenshot of ViewNX-i, the third is the conversion from Capture NX-D (the one with the slight color and exposure change) and the last is the conversion output from ViewNX-i.

Thanks for your interests and comments so far.

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I am using ViewNX-i and Capture NX-D. These are the latest offerings from Nikon which supersede the ones you are using as I understand it. There may well be differences between these releases.

I have both Nikon's ViewNX-i and Capture NX-D software. I uploaded NEF photos shot yesterday from my D500 to my computer. I opened the first NEF file in Capture NX-D and converted it to a JPG using the highest quality setting and leaving all other editing options as recorded by the camera. The resultant JPG image's tonal range and contrast was quite visibly different from the preview image in Capture NX-D. The JPG was lighter in exposure and the color tinted slightly more yellowish.

I then repeated the conversion using ViewNX-i. The preview image appeared much the same as for Capture NX-D as did the JPG conversion - no change to the tonal values or exposure. I am at a loss to know why there should be any differences between the output conversions of the two. Capture NX-D had its settings set as default as did ViewNX-i.

Just in case this this tonal and exposure shift was a JPG issue, I used Capture NX-D to output the image as a TIFF - all settings kept the same. The TIFF turned out just the same as the JPG.

Any input to why there should be differences in output from these two programs would be most welcome.

That is interesting! The last time I used a split screen for focusing was back in the film days when I bought my first SLR camera -a Minolta SRT-101. There was only the viewfinder image to line up your shot back then.

But coming back to your comment of focusing being slow even on your mirrorless camera. How slow is slow? With manual focusing you can be sure of what part of your subject is spot on before capturing the image. With AF you can't be absolutely sure.

Depending on your camera model, manual focus accuracy can be enhanced by reprogramming appropriate buttons to magnify the live view image. For example, on my Nikon D7200, under the Custom Settings Menu => f Controls => f1 OK button => Live View => Zoom on/off, I have 3 options to set the Zoom in/out magnification ratios, viz 50%, 100%, 200%. I usually set mine to 100%.

So when I am displaying a scene through Live View all I have to do is press the OK button and the image will be magnified to whatever Zoom level I have chosen earlier. Pressing the OK button again toggles the magnification off and the live view image reverts to that seen when first entering Live View.

This method gives very accurate focusing when focusing manually. No other aids are really needed. Obviously it works best on static subjects.

I love what you have captured in your pano's. I have just started out shooting pano's and am getting some lovely scenes. Once I get my technique refined a bit more I'd like to share them with the folk here as well.
Keep up the good work. You have inspired me even more!

You are right. The D7200 does not allow a live view preview histogram like the D500. It would have been nice if one could have access to the RGB histogram along with the luminence histogram in the D500 live view preview.

Take the battery out of the camera and peer into the battery compartment under a strong light with the intention of examining the battery contacts there to see if something like a bit of fluff or paper etc is in the way of a good contact with your fully charged battery. Other than that a trip to your Nikon service center would seem in order.

You didn't mention what camera you were using. When I set my Nikon D7200 to Auto ISO I have limits available to me that I set in the menu system to stop ISO exceeding my predetermined value to avoid excessive noise. Currently I have it set to 8000. If I set shutter speed and aperture control to work in manual mode and the subject brightness called for ISO to exceed 8000, I would notice the exposure meter in the viewfinder to going negative indicating underexposure. At that point I could adjust either or both shutter speed and aperture to get the exposure correct with ISO staying at 8000 or get it lower by using a lower shutter speed and/or open up the lens if possible. The ISO value is always visible in my viewfinder so I have all three exposure variables at my fingertips so to speak.

Most laptop computers that sport HDMI ports use them for outputting video/sound etc. Those ports do not accept data as input to the laptop. HDMI ports are not setup to be bi-directional that way as are USB ports. That is why you need to have a HDMI to USB converter because your laptop/computer uses USB ports for the inputting/outputting of data.
I was using a Elgato 4K Web Link converter connected to my D7200 until recently when the device suddenly failed on me. Luckily it was still under warranty and I got my money back. However, I am still unable to get a replacement. The Elgato's are as scarce as the proverbial "hens teeth". I used the converter successfully with Skype. Skype recognized it as a webcam and I would image Zoom would do the same.
One thing to note though - these converters have noticeable lag time compared to the Logitech web cams so the picture of yourself on your screen noticeable lags your actual movements in front of the camera. This can be a bit off-putting at times.