I don't own a Zf, but read a lot of reviews on it, studied the specs, etc. since I considered it to replace my Z6ii.

It has largely received a lot of raves, with a few caveats.

It's basically a 24mp Z8, in a retro body, with slower memory cards (I don't care for the micro SD slot, but of course keeping the size down). It has the same expeed7 processor as in the Z8/9. AF performance is about on par with the Z8/9. The IBIS module doesn't lock down when camera is off - really don't like the idea of the IBIS module jostling around during transit. It makes a great stylish travel or street camera. With a vintage lens attached, people might think you are shooting with film. I've decided to wait for the Z6iii.

It really depends brightness of the subject (sunny, cloudy, dawn, dusk,indoor, nightlife), lens used, desired or needed DoF, and whether you have IBIS or lens stabilization. If the subject or scene is not moving, your movement or camera shake is the other factor. If the camera is on a stable tripod, then there really is no lower limit, except long exposures introduce more noise (may need to turn on long exposure NR).

Constraints -

ISO - lower is better, lowest possible ISO for shutter/f/EV combo.

f - vary depending on DoF needed and lighting, but wide open and small apertures f/16+ usually result in slightly lower IQ. Most lenses perform best in the "midrange" f/ 5.6-11

Shutter - handheld, generally 1/focal length or faster, but can go lower 2-6 stops depending on lens/IBIS stabilization setting. So if you're shooting with a 100mm lens, you want 1/100 or faster, with a 300mm lens 1/300 or faster, but if you have 3 stops of IS, you can go as low as 1/15 or 1/30 in the examples above. But again, on a stable tripod there really is no lower limit on a static subject.

Sometimes creative effects such as a blurred waterfall require a much slower, multi-second shutter speed, on a tripod. If you don't have a tripod, take several shots at higher shutter, and stack them to blur - you need about a dozen or more shots to blend, for example. Or, if you're shooting a helicopter for example, you don't want static rotor blades and prefer to show some blade motion, so only certain slower speeds will work for you (such as 1/60), subject to other constraints above.

Well you have 36 blank canvases to paint any pictures you like! Think of it that way.

Film teaches you much more about discipline since in the back of your mind you don't want to waste frames (and money) on bad shots or subjects. With digital you can shoot away with wild abandon, but most shots turn out either badly or redundant in the process.

In 2010 Steve McCurry shot the very last roll of Kodachrome ever. If you watch the documentary on YouTube he used a digital camera to verify exposure and composition first, since Kodachrome had a very narrow latitude exposure wise. (The movie Kodachrome with Ed Harris is also a good watch.)

Maybe you will get some ideas from this - https://www.vanityfair.com/culture/photos/2011/02/last-kodachrome-slide-show-201102_old

Street photography is always a good genre for film. I see a lot of shutter bugs in NYC still carrying around film cameras of all sorts. The A-1 (and AE-1) were great film cameras of their time - historic.

Well I can understand. Back in 2022 I had to sell my D7200 (and D3300) and all the lenses to raise some temporary cash while the house I was living in was on the market for sale - I had mostly FX lenses too as I was anticipating getting a FF DSLR. Well the house sale changed my plans as I was not planning on getting rid of the D7200 which was more than fine for me too - "I didn't need no stinking mirrorless or full frame either!" I was planning on jumping to another system like Fuji X-T5 or X-HS2.

Well later in 2022, having some funds to splurge, I decided to try a refurb Z6ii with a 24-70 f/4 lens. They refer to the lens as a "kit" lens but it is so good IMO. Then in 2023 I expanded with a few used F lenses, FTZii, and then later added the Z7ii refurb. Love both of these cameras. They feel like butter in the hands compared to the D7200 actually. Having no mirror slap really makes the difference. There are also many other benefits of course, such as being able to adapt so many lenses for one. In retro, I probably should have waited a bit for a Z8 refurb. The Z7ii is a great camera you will like it. I am looking forward to a Z50ii or the much rumored "Z500", but don't hold your breath I am told.

What you never noticed the mirror inside the Z50?

If you asked me 19 months ago I would say keep the 24-70 given that you also have the 70-200.

However, if you asked me 18 months ago I would say keep the 24-105 for the longer reach and less lens changing.

Experience is a great teacher.

Yes, correct, and also there is only a 14 day return policy if returned as received (with RMA number from Nikon). So, what that means is, if you order refurbished cameras and lenses from Nikon, is to unpack it as soon as received, and inspect everything. Items are usually packed generically in plain white or brown boxes - no retail box - don't expect one. Each item is wrapped in bubble wrap, and the package as a whole is well cushioned. Recharge the batteries and check that everything works as expected. Put the camera/lenses through the paces and make sure all modes work. Get a shutter count on the first image - should be low or zero on a refurb product (does not apply to a Z8/9 as there is no mechanical shutter for exposure - make sure the protective shutter works though.) If something seems not right within the first few days, call Nikon to get an RMA replacement. Save all the packing material for at least the warranty period 90 days. I wish they would extend that to 180 days at least. I heard that at one time Nikon did not offer any warranty on refurbs, but don't know if that is true.

That was nice! Good to hear!

But what if AI wasn't allowed, and the judges did pick an AI image....that will occur sooner or later.

I haven't noticed that effect ever myself, but I don't doubt it exists for many due to differences in rod/cone wavelength responses, iris color, angles, etc.

I have noticed that depending on what other color it is adjacent to, and the thickness or coverage of the color on the screen, it can affect perceived colors, even though the RGB value is exactly the same on the same monitor.

Some colors are tricky too. Years ago I designed a website for someone, and he was fussy about a particular shade of orange as the theme color. He complained that the orange looked different in the certain parts like fonts and thinner sections/lines. When I showed him the RGB values were exactly the same, he was amazed.

I think the judges probably felt so duped. Ameca would be proud!

Yes and I can say the same for my Z6ii and Z7ii refurbs (direct from Nikon USA)...amazingly new condition, not a scratch, works fine now for over a year/6 months respectively, zero shutter counts upon receipt. Also great experience with KEH camera with used F mount lenses, all in EX+ condition.

Nikon refurbs are 90 days only.

OMG the GAS pains are unbearable ... a Z8 for $3200.... tempting.

Use Google drive (15GB free) and send the share link via email. Some email systems will block any attachment over 1M for security reasons, sometimes even less.