At Minimum Focusing Distance, the Working Distance (lens front element to subject) of a 60-mm macro lens is 90-mm (3.5-inches) to achieve 1:1 magnification (life-size). You can obviously shoot at greater WD, but the image is smaller on sensor.

UHH has an entire section devoted to macro-photography: http://www.uglyhedgehog.com/s-102-1.html Several of us shoot Nikon. One of the threads is about macro set-ups.

Subscribe to True Macro-Photography Forum here: http://www.uglyhedgehog.com/section_list.jsp

Well first of all if you are using spot metering and putting your focus point the feeder then that is what will be in focus and the rest my very well be out of focus. If you want the feeder and the bird in focus I personally would use partial metering and focus on the birds eye. Since you are using a tri pod and have time to take the shot I would auto focus holding the shutter button only 1/2 way. Once you are in focus switch over to manual focus. This will lock in your focus then take the shot. I would also turn of IS if you have it.

Just my idea.

Alway try to keep you shutter the same as your focal lenght of you lens ....300mm lens no less than 1/ 300 shuterspeed..100mm lens shutter speed 1/100

Pappy

One thing I've found with UV filters and such is that when you grip them or squeeze them hard with your fingers, you actually bind the threads worse. There have been times I've tried with all my might and couldn't separate a filter from the front of a lens and then later I held it gently with very little squeeze pressure and they literally fell apart easily.

I have small ones, use the top of one and the bottom the other.
Where did you get small one s? and It they are cross threaded it no big expense to throw them away and replace .


But from what the op says they may be cross threaded and unusable even if they can be separated.

I use a remote shutter release that is pretty much like a tv remote control. Push the button the camera fires. eBay: about $6.00. Is there something I don't know?