You are probably going to get a lot of responses to this. There are a number of responses to this. You can also do a search and find some of this info. What I do is a progressive type of file system on computer. I start with the heiarche of Photos, then scenic, then mountains, then Mt Jefferson, all the Mt Jefferson photos are here. Another one is under Photos, then fauna, then ducks, then mallards etc(other duck names). Under fauna deer. Under fauna owl etc. This way I can always find a specific photo. I also enter a tag that is specific so I can find all ducks. For family photos I use Photos, then Sharon, or Shawn or Jim all photos for them can be found. I don't use dates because after a few years I can not remember which people or event I was at. Hope this helps.

I have a printer that will handle 8x10. I would be willing to print these for you. If you would like send me a photo you would like to have printed and I can take a look at it and email the result to you to see if you like it. Then we can be in touch to have them printed. my email: kenk_77@cbbmail.com

I have used acid free, double sided tape on mine. Works great, just remember to only mount from the top, so the photo will lay flat, and temp changes won't make it wrinkle.
The other way to mount is to take the photo to a frame shop that will mount the photo. They use a vacuum system to absolutly take all wrinkles out and is flat. Hope this helps

This is my take. I would stick with well known mfg. Dell, HP etc. They stand behind there stuff. Real reservations about other mfg. I have friends with horror stories with off brand pc..One thing to consider is technology is moving pretty fast. Go with a 64bit machine, however some older s/w will not work well. This replacement of s/w is huge to some. The talk is that they(manufacturers) want to promote 128bit arc. I don't know when or if it will stop, but do the best with the knowledge you can get. As soon as 64bit came out I got two, knowing s/w would be an issue.

wilson.. Your right. The specs will let a person know how much light the lens needs to focus. So, inreality one can use a tele and be ok. Just need to know some of the tech stuff.

Use the soft side of velcro that has self adhesive.

The card speed is right on. You need a fast, and large capacity card. Raw files are large. A card of 30mb/sec or faster is recommended. The big thing that I don't care for is the lag time in shutter release on some Point-Shoots. A real pain. Be sure and check the specs on cameras to purchase to make sure you will be happy and will fit your needs. Make a list of your needs first, not wants and see if you can find the camera that fits and the wants will sometimes exceed your expectations when doing this way.

This is what I do. Set camera on tripod. White balance to tungstun(for flashlight, spot light). Set to manual exposure. Set A to around f8-f10, set S to around 60 or bulb. Usually bulb. Use light to get a focus(manual). Activate shutter with a release if you have one. Paint some of your scene with light. Stop exposure and check the result. You can use your light for around 2 sec. paint to start and repaint light as needed. When your in bulb you can move around and paint as needed. After several attempts you'll get what you want. Be sure and count in seconds for some areas to get the right light intensity. For small objects I can use 30sec.-2min. to get the result I want. It will take several shots too get it right. Hope this helps.

Halo, this is what I do and it works for me. Arrive a little early. Determine the party, lots of action etc. Start by setting the white balance to tungston or floresant which ever you need. Set to shutter priority, set iso to 100. Take a test shot for color. Adjust up or down white balance setting until your happy. Decide if you want to stop motion or depth of field and set. I start at around 160 or 200 shutter priority and check the aperature for the dof that you want. I will toggle between SP and AP to suit my needs. Adjusting as I go. Make sure that you keep the SP at a level to not introduce blur, if no blurr is what you want. I almost never do manual or program or auto. I want control over aspects of shot. I shoot with raw + jpeg. jpeg is so I can share photos as needed. The raw ones are for more control cause the settings do not affect the raw file. I then adjust the raw file as needed. The original raw file is untouched as it is my negative. Hope all this helps.

The relationships of shutter speed, aperature and iso are related. You don't need to have a real fast lens(1.4 or so) to shoot in low light. You can use even f8 and slow your shutter speed to get the right exposure.

Retired from HP and beleave me this is true. You should use the manuf. print heads. Not reused, or refilled printheads. The ink formula is trade secret and formulated for the correct heads, and printer. No mater what a off brand manf. or refilled company will tell you, please don't even think of it. Can cause you all kinds of gref. Stick with new manuf. heads for your printer. I would think that all printer manf. would have similar practices for their product. Good luck.

The Photographers Market volumn is a listing of many magazines, book publishers, editors etc. with Magazine name with publishers names. Ex. Outdoor Life, National Geo etc.

It's a real struggle and you have to be flexible and persistant. With all the great cameras that can help with focus and exposure the gap between pro and ameture is getting very close. For me it's not a living anymore, so I have a ranch to maintain and use my photography as suplimental. Good luck

If you want purchase The Photographers Market, this has thousands of contacts. Good Luck

Don't know where you get your info, been a pro for many many year. If you want a identifiable person in the photo published you will need a photo release. Sometimes the editor won't want one but a reputable publisher will want one.