I once heard something like: an artist gets an idea, and then chooses his tools to create.
I believe Ansel Adams would gladly use the tools we have available today, with artistry, without snark.
Just sayin'

Wow. They say they have shipped all those early orders. See:
https://witharsenal.com/blog/

You should contact them.
I ordered mine in May and I expect it to arrive in about 2 weeks.

nice shot. Lucky.

Has anyone out there seen or used the Arsenal Camera Assistant??
https://witharsenal.com/

Opinions? Discussions??
Just curious.

Amazing traffic in our back yard.
I had to lighten the cat. He was in dark shadow.

This looks like a great app. I'm sharing it to see what UHH-ers think.
From the web page: "The Photographer's Ephemeris® (TPE) is a tool to help you plan outdoor photography in natural light, especially landscape and urban scenes. It is a map-centric sun and moon calculator: see how the light will fall on the land, day or night, for any location on earth."
Link:
https://photoephemeris.com/

Good shots. I'm jealous. I love that area, especially in early Spring.

I really like the last one. It is so difficult to get herons to pose with good background.

Nice shot! Feels 3D.

Good article. Thank you.

Thank you all. You help me want to keep trying these nature shots.

About 10-15 cardinals showed up in our back yard during a 6 inch snowfall. I had to take the photos through window glass - I didn't want to scare them away. These are some of the ~90 shots.
Oh, and the last 2 are composites, using Photoshop.

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“Saying a camera takes nice pictures is like saying a pot cooks nice food.”

That is a good article! Thank you, Hank.

A few years ago, I bought a Canon CanoScan 9000F (~$150). It is a flat bed scanner with adaptors for film scans. It comes with frames to hold 35mm film (2 strips of 4 frames) and slides (4 slides). The software is excellent for fading, grain and backlight correction. Without the adaptor, it is excellent for scanning photo prints.
The driver software can be used in auto detect mode, which is only good for casual copies - for email or social media sharing.
If you really want to restore and save your stuff, you need to set up the parameters manually. This is not difficult, and generally, one setup is good for all film that shares film type and age.
In manual mode, you set:
1. Degree of dust, sharpness, fading, grain and backlight correction.
2. Specify negative or positive film.
3. Choose DPI resolution. Note that enlargement of an image is inversely proportional to perceived resolution. That is, if you scan a 35mm slide (24mm x 36mm, or roughly 1"x1.5") at 1200DPI, and enlarge the image to 4"x6", the perceived resolution will be 300DPI. If you want to enlarge more, or if you want to do serious editing or restoration (as with Adobe software) , you will need to scan at higher DPI.

I scanned slides that are about 60 yrs old, and was quite happy with the results. Mostly I used 2400DPI, but for the ones I intended to print and frame, I used 4800DPI.
I scanned film 100+ yrs old. For some of this, I used 9600DPI because I really needed to do some detailed repair work with Photoshop.
I also scanned prints that were even older, but DPI is useful only up to the quality of the print. But even with newspaper clippings, the results were way better that I had thought possible.
Bear in mind that increased DPI equates to increased scan time and file size: 4 slides @ 4800DPI will take 30-45 minutes, and 35MB per image.
Also, be prepared to equip with emulsion cleaner, lint free cloth, and cotton gloves (for handling without finger smudge).