You probably want to update your watermark to (c) 2018.

Regarding noise, the history on the first image indicates the image was captured in RAW, converted to a DNG and then converted to an JPEG. Only Lightroom is referenced. Assuming the EXIF data is accurate and LR was the only tool, the EXIF data also reports Luminance and Color Noise reduction values:

Luminance Smoothing : 8
Luminance Noise Reduction Detail: 50
Luminance Noise Reduction Contrast: 0

Color Noise Reduction : 25
Color Noise Reduction Detail : 50
Color Noise Reduction Smoothness: 50

Your processing of this image presents opportunities within LR alone to improve the result, even when processing the processed JPEG. Consider making a virtual copy of the current version and making the following updates:

WB
Tint: +1

Tone
Exposure: +.35
Contrast: -1
Highlights: -30
Blacks: -26

Presence
Clarity: +5
Vibrance: +5
Saturation: +5

Sharpening
Amount: 60
Radius: 0.7
Detail: 8
Masking: 70

Noise Reduction
Luminance Smoothing: 45
Luminance Noise Reduction Detail: 10
Luminance Noise Reduction Contrast: 50

Color Noise Reduction: 18
Color Noise Reduction Detail: 15
Color Noise Reduction Smoothness: 50

You might also experiment with Canon's DPP v4 on the CR2 files creating 16-bit TIFFs and importing the TIFFs to LR. This is extra work and although the Noise clean-up from DPP is more effective than LR, really it's only marginally better and rarely better to the extent of the extra work and large TIFFs for large volume work like sports.

Overall, at higher ISOs with Canon RAW (CR2) files, expose to the right with minor highlight warnings in the camera's back display. Then, pull the expose back to the left in processing and separately blacken the blacks and darken the shadows (see example LR settings above). This image at ISO-5000 f/2.8 at 1/500 is probably the technical limit for your options. But, if you went down to 1/400 and up to ISO-6400 and allowed some blinkies on the tackler's helmet, the laces of the ball and the goal posts (?) in the background, you would expect to have a bit less noise in the CR2 before you started processing. All those highlights would be immaterial to the image and easily recoverable in post.

Use the LR compare tool of the proposed edits on the virtual copy. Look at your edit values against those proposed. As mentioned, these are edits on edits. You can sync the edits from the virtual copy against the original and tweek further, as needed

I purchased a Lowepro ProTactic 350 AW camera pack a couple years ago, but have only used it on 2 trips so far. On the first trip, I tried to tighten the chest strap and one side pulled off. The straps are designed to slide up and down the shoulder strap, but the attachment system is via a friction fit system. On the second trip, I had made a temporary strap to replace the one that came off and when trying to tighten the chest strap again, the opposite chest strap came off. Has anyone else experienced this problem? I am in contact with Lowepro, but the process is taking a long time with no resolution to date. I would be interested in others experience.

Yesterday I had a single photo image sitting on my desktop that needed an adjustment to shadows/highlights before I pulled it into Adobe InDesign. To accomplish this relatively minor task in Lightroom 6, I had to:

1. Open up Lightroom 6
2. Select Library module
3. Select Import
4. Navigate to the Desktop (PC)
5. Find the photo in question - Open it
6. Switch back Develop module
7. Apply Highlights/Shadows adjustments
8. Click Export
10. Fill out Export instructions form
11. Click Export again
12. Navigate to the new folder Lightroom created for the finished and exported file....then move file to Adobe InDesign.

I've been fighting this clumsy way of making minor adjustments to a few files for years and finally decided to ask if there is a better/easier/faster/simpler way. I'd use Photoshop for this task but Lightroom is way better for this particular adjustment. I think I understand why Lightroom operates this way - professional workflow - but I'd like to be able to make a single adjustment like this simply, without taking so much time and without having to create a new image file (when I do not mind changing the original image file). Anybody figured out a shortcut?

I have been using my Canon T3 for several years and have no complaints, but I am toying with the idea of getting a new crop sensor Canon as my primary, and relegating my T3 as a backup. Back in film days I preferred the 2 camera approach, one with a wide-angle and the other with a telephoto, and carrying a fast lens for low light. Anyway, I have narrowed my choices to 3 models. All have the same sensor size and the same digital processor, as well as an articulated screen. The rest is bells and whistles. The SL2 is the smallest and lightest and cheapest, all of which rate for me. The T7i and the 77D are the other two. I can get a SL2 somewhere in the $375-450 range, and the others at 100-200 more, up to about 700. I do not do video, and I take one shot at a time (usually). No flash, no, or little tripod, no or little post processing. Always use only available light, I guess I am kind of a dinosaur. But hey, if you have HAD EXPERIENCE with any of these cameras, please let me benefit from your opinion.

OK, I am probably about to set myself up for some *sshole in UHH to tell me how stupid, ill-advised or obtuse I am regarding photo storage.
If you are one of those types, please scroll on past and resist the temptation to once again prove your superiority.

However, if you are one of the nice guys, and have a moment to spare, I'd like your opinion on my (amateur/novice) methodology.

Basically, I have never completely grasped the whole LR catalogue thing...but I am ok with that because, before I obtained my LR subscription, I did simple edits in iPhoto where I managed my own collections easily. Now that I have obtained LR and Luminar I play a bit in both and use iPhoto only occasionally.

Here's the catch:
I have always been tidy about organizing my photos. Once I have made my edits, I export them all to a folder on my desktop (as jpegs, of course) and place them as a subfolder in Macs Pictures folder. I back them up on external hard drives, SmugMug and run Carbonite in the background. So, finding my pictures is never an issue.

My question:
Is that why LR can never find them again? Since I have made my edits and am happy with the results (i.e. I don't ever go back and re-edit a picture) is my current method a reasonable approach? I understand LR is a powerful tool for photo organization...but do I really need it if I never go back and do additional edits? Does LR only store the RAW images and, because I (gasp) delete them after editing, LR can't find the edited jpegs?

I hope I do not sound like a total idiot. As I said, I am not terribly upset when LR gives me those !!! marks on images...but I would like to understand why and, despite watching several videos on the subject, I still can't wrap my head around it.

Can some of you helpful UHHers provide some assurances that, given my goals (just have fun) and level of competency (reasonably happy with my picture taking skills) my approach to photo organization is adequate for my needs?

I might add that at this point in my life, with so many additional interests, I am getting less motivated to learn new software, etc. Basically, I am strictly a hobbyist who likes taking pictures when convenient....mostly trips and my adult son's rugby games, with some wildlife and macro thrown in for diversity.

TIA

We are headed out to take an Alaskan Cruise in a couple of weeks and I am having a quandary on how much gear to take. My main camera is a D810 which will obviously go. I have narrowed it down to 3 lenses, my 16-35, my 24-120 & my 200-500. (Hoping for a whale shot). The question is whether to carry my D300S for the extra reach with the long lens. I loaded it all in my backback and it weighs a whopping 19 lbs. But I'll only carry all that while traveling to and from Seattle. Once I get on the ship it will just be one camera and maybe one extra lens when I'm taking pics. Does anyone have any advice? I could forgo the D300S body but I sure like the extra reach of the crop sensor.

Thanks!