I use my iPad and the Apple Pen. it will work with any iPad that uses responds to either Pen 1 or Pen 2. I use an application called Air Display. You purchase the AirDisplay app from your IPad, then install the free Air Display driver on your desktop. Connect the iPad to the Mac open the app on the iPad and the Mac screen is duplicated on the desktop. I open Capture One and use the Apple Pen to draw masks etc., on the image on the iPad. I find it easier to enlarge the image and work on the enlarged image on the pad. It works well and there is no lag time. I like it much better than my Wacom tablet.

I closed my dark room a number of years ago. At the suggestion of my local camera store I gave all of the equipment to the photo club and our high school. It was much appreciated.

I use a Pen o 10 Printer and I do not know if Canon offers the same deal with Pro 100 inks. However, whenever I purchase a block of different color inks from Canon on line they offer free Pro Paper. The price for the ink is the same as any camera store, but the paper is free and very good.

I use mailbigfile.com. They have free service that is limited to 2GB and a pro version for $29/year for 4GB files. My wife also uses it for sending large pdfs.

Why would she go to a full frame camera and then use a lens that will not cover the entire sensor. She would be better off upgrading to a high quality crop sensor like a 90D.

The 1DS III is bullet proof, she cannot break it. It is an old sensor, but produces great images. The only down side is that is heavy and large, it also does not have all of the new bells and whistles. On the plus side is that the very large battery will run all day, in any weather. I have used mine at -20F. She may do better with a used 5DIII or 6DII. She will need to use high quality, probably "L" lenses to get the most out of her full frame images.

I use a Canon Pro 10 printer. I used to use a 9000. It is a very good printer. I always use Canon inks and never have a problem. I do not know if Canon offers this with Inks for the 9000, but when I purchase packs of ink directly from Canon on line they throw in for free sample packs of their pro papers. I now have more paper than I can use. I really like the papers and the price is right. The Canon online price for ink is the same price as camera stores.

Your EF lenses will work fine with the R and the adapter. Just remember you are moving up to a full frame 30mg sensor. Your images will expose any weaknesses in your lenses. If your current lenses are "L" lenses you will not have a problem. However if your EF lenses are basic low cost lenses you will not enjoy all of the quality of your new camera.

I would use the 100 or the 50 depending on your distance from the subject and how you want to crop. The 100 would be good for head shots, the 50 for shots from the waist up. I would shoot everything with the lens wide open to blur the background. Focus on the eyes. If you are not using flash for fill, I suggest you use a reflector held on the subjects lap or close to them. This will fill the face with reflected light from the sun as the sun will be some where over head and you do not want it blasting the face. You can use any reflective material as a reflector. I have used cookie sheets or sheet pans. You can also wrap a tray with Aluminum foil. Move the reflector around and you should be able t flight the eye sockets and remove strong shadows from the faces. Good luck.

I always use OEM batteries and I have never had any problems. My Canon batteries seem to last a long time and the batteries in my 1ds lll seem to never need to lose a charge no matter how long I shoot. I have never understood why you would spend hundreds or thousands of dollars on high quality cameras and then save a little money, and possibly risk your camera, on lower price batteries.

No. I mine are on all of the time as I use Carbon Copy Cloner to run daily scheduled backups. and one large drive for Time Machine. My drives are either G Technology or sea gate portable. I use multiple backups in case of failure of a drive, but so far, and some of them have run for many years, I have never had a drive fail.

Adorama has its own brand of electronic storage cabinets called Slinger. It regulates the temperate and internal humidity, I have an 85L cabinet, now on sale for 199. It holds three camera bodies including a 1DSIII, a 5dsr and an EOS R. 7 lenses, four flashes and assorted other items. It works well and is well built.

I would use the crop sensor camera. You will increase the reach of the lens to 160 - 640. This is a little longer than the 1.4 extender. That camera has a sharp crop sensor. In addition, when you add the 1.4 extender you reduce the minimum aperture to 6.3 - 7.8. I am not certain that lens will focus at 7.8. You may have to manually focus it.

I have pocket light meter on my phone. However, when I measure it for accuracy against the meter in my cameras or my Sekonic L 508 Zoom it always under exposes by at least 2 stops. I keep it for emergencies when all else fails, but I think i do as well reading the light without a meter. Or using it and adjusting the exposures based on its readings.

I use a Sekonic L-508. I find the best use for the incident light function of this meter is shooting dark subjects that will "absorb" light and not reflect it back to my camera meter accurately. This is most obvious when shooting portraits of dark skinned subjects. Placing the incident meter on the subject and pointing it back to my camera almost always gives me accurate exposures. I know I can raise shadows when post processing, but I prefer to start with a properly exposed subject.