Sometimes you always lose.

I have been watching this group for some time now. Absolutely amazing. Take a look at
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kepEY0nMaNU

I am from Devon UK, and have successfully dealt with FFordes,
The Kirk, Wester Balblair, By Beauly, Inverness-shire, IV4 7BQ.
They usually have a good selection of film cameras. Have a look

https://www.ffordes.com/

A very good manual only camera is the Pentax K1000, but do make sure that the camera and the lens are marked with 'Asahi corp Japan' (on back of camera and front of lens) The later ones where made outside of Japan and no where near as good quality.

[quote=Chaxl]Recently I purchased a Workforce Tank ET-3750 printer as I am a photographer and digital artist. I love this printer. However when printing one of my greeting cards, when we touched the card, it got all smeary. Once I watched a tutorial on youtube that there's a specific setting I could enable that is anti-smear, but of course I can't seem to remember what setting it was. lol Otherwise it's a fantastic printer.

Chad

PS I had a Canon Inkjet before and my cards didn't smear. The blank glossy cards I use are for Inkjets. I prefer glossy than matte finish for my greeting cards.[/quote

I have an Epson photo printer and normally only use Fotospeed (and very occasionally Epson) paper in it and have never had a problem, but when I used some paper given to me (can’t remember the make now) for an unimportant job it smeared and took forever to dry. What make of paper are you using? Maybe this is the problem.

I posted this a few years back but it might be of interest to you.
Hope this might be of some interest to anyone setting up a Sony A6300. With a few exceptions the set up will also apply to the A6000. These are, of course personal preferences for the type of photographic work I do, mainly candid/street, landscape, a few portraits (mainly of Grandchildren), a few shots of an active Border Collie and very occasionally copying artwork. Most photographs are taken in Aperture or Shutter priority mode. Rarely do I use Manual. The lens on my A6300 for 95% of the time is the Sony Zeiss 16 – 70mm f4, but I also have the 50mm f1.8, and the 55 – 210mm f4.5 – 6.3 (all Sony APS-C, E mount lenses). Most of my photographs I aim to print. Personal work usually to A3. I never use the built in flash or the camera for video.

The menu index name/number is given after each setting (with the equivalent A6000 bracketed if different from the A6300). The notes give some thoughts on the reasons for my choices.

Quality - set to Raw & jpeg. Camera 1.
Can sort and print jpegs quickly, but if I wish to get more out of a shot can (and most times do) use the RAW file.

Exposure Compensation – -0.3. Camera 4 (3)
As I use RAW, exposure can be changed slightly at the conversion stage without loss of quality. The reduction of exposure at the taking stage, by one third of a stop can help reduce potentially burnt out highlights.

Auto Review – Off. Custom 2 (1)
Easy to miss the next shot during the time it takes for the image just taken to appear and disappear from the screen.

Audio signals – Off Set up 1
Don’t want the bleeps to bring attention when taking the photograph.

AF Illuminator – Off. Camera 3
This sends out a beam of light to aid focus in poor lighting conditions, again bringing attention to the fact that photographs are being taken. Unless photographing black cats in coal cellars the camera seems to do a pretty good job without resorting to the Illuminator.

Monitor Brightness - +1. Set up 1
I use the camera mostly at eye level but when using the screen (usually for its tilting facility), this helps a little on a bright day.

ISO Auto – 100 to 6400. Camera 4
6400 ISO might seem rather high but the camera handles noise quite well and the atmosphere of photographs taken in poor lighting conditions is sometimes not adversely affected by some noise (as with grain in the days of film).

ISO Auto Min SS – 1/125 Camera 4 (Not available on the A6000)
1/125 sec. is OK for my 16 to 70mm and 50mm lenses, but care must be taken when using the 55 to 210mm.

Custom Key settings
C1 Silent shooting (not available on A6000)
I would have liked to have Silent shooting turned on all the time but under certain artificial lighting conditions striping can occur on the image so I have set it to this custom key to have the choice, on or off.

I have a RMT-DSLR Wireless remote so I would also like to keep the Remote Control menu function on all the time but this runs the battery down. Unfortunately the camera will not allow this option to be assigned to a Custom Key or the Function Menu, so have to resort to the main (147 item) menu.

C2 Monitor Brightness
The Monitor Brightness can be turned up even more than my preferred +1 setting (above) to a Sunny Weather setting. Not good for evaluating the tonal range but at least I can get a better idea of the composition.

AEL Eye AF
Eye Auto Focus can only be used when assigned to a custom button as this must be held down whilst the shutter release is pressed. The AEL button has been chosen because the thumb natural rests around that area when taking a photograph.

Function Menu
Upper 1 Drive Mode (This is the default setting)
Upper 2 Focus Mode
Upper 3 Focus Area
I have grouped these three together as they are sometimes changed at the same time. For most things I do they are set on default, i.e. Drive mode – Single Shooting, Focus Mode – Automatic AF and Focus Area – Wide. If, when occasionally I photograph a fast moving subject they are changed to Continuous Shooting and Continuous AF respectively and the Focus Area usually left on Wide but occasionally set on Flexible Spot.

All the rest of the settings are left on default. I have found it impossible to find a list of default settings for the A6300 or A6000. If you want to set your camera to default go to Set up – 7, (6 for A6000) ‘Setting Reset’ then ‘Initialize’. ‘Camera Settings Reset’ will only reset the Camera Menu. Having chosen Initialize you will however be back to factory condition and have to reset time and date.

Most of my personal settings have little or no relationship to the quality of the image, as the camera does an excellent job sorting out exposure, white balance etc. and using RAW gives room for adjustment with little or no loss of quality.

I would be very interested to know how your settings on the A6300/6000 differ from mine and why you prefer them.

An example. When photographing say in a wooded area where it is dark in the shadow of the trees, giving atmosphere to the photograph the image in the viewfinder of a mirrorless camera shows the image as the meter is reading it, which tries to give detail in all areas usually making the image lighter as to what it really looks like. By altering the exposure the image in the viewfinder can be adjusted so that it is very near the tonal range of the scene, and this is what the sensor will record when the shutter is pressed.

I feel getting rid of the halo (it looked natural to me anyway) reducing the saturation and attempting to get rid of the noise in the barn in no way improves your original shot.

An excellent photograph. Love the lighting, the positioning of the figures and the atmosphere all enhanced by the noise.
In the days of film I would often use fast films to give a granular effect. Sometimes (through lack of light) it was necessary, but occasionally on purpose, but always trying to use it to enhance the photograph.
Noise doesn’t always work (as it has done here) as well as grain, but I hope to try some shots at high ISO to replicate grainy film photographs. So I would suggest that although this is a first don’t let it be the last time you use noise on suitable subject matter.

I would suggest that you only clean your lenses when absolutely necessary.

I only clean my lenses when absolutely necessary as I feel more (permanent) damage can be done by any touching of the glass, (even with appropriate cloths). The odd speck of dust that might have settled can easily be removed with a blower brush. If the lenses are covered when not in use the glass surfaces remain pretty clean.

For over 40 years I worked as a professional using Rollei's (with Ilford and Kodak films) and I cant remember once ever having problems loading the film. Would it be that films manufactured now have a different shaped paper leader that is causing your problem?

I personally don't think you need a monopod as to 'freeze' the gymnast the shutter speed would have to be high enough to avoid camera shake. Also a monopod would (to a certain extent) restrict your ability to move quickly and compose the shot as required.

Thank you, I would love the P800 but bench space being a problem and probably very rarely using anything larger than A3+ I think I will stick to the P600, which I believe uses similar technology.

Thanks everyone. I will probably order a P600 in the next few days.

Thank you but I didn't get your reply.