petelush

I'm out of practice but today was ridiculous. I could not get the take-up spool in my Rollei to hold onto the new roll. It would simply not stay in the slot long enough during advance winds to wrap around the take-up spool. After a dozen or more tries I took out the spool and made a few winds by hand. What is the secret to this? Thanks.

Boris77

I know nothing about your specific camera but I did shoot 120 film in a Mamiya RB67. I even loaded my own film via reusing the paper backing.
The simple catch to loading a new roll was to feed the tapered leader thru the spool slot, then fold the (short) tongue back to catch under the first turn of the take up spool. After the leader was under 1/4 to 1/2 turn into the trap I would take the slack out of the film roll, wind to the mark, and place the film holder into the camera while holding the tension until the camera back was closed. I seldom had any trouble unless in a hurry.
I hope this is pertinent to your problem. It worked in three cameras I had that used paper backed film.
Boris

petelush

Rollei doesn't use a film holder (insert), so I'm in a somewhat different position, thanks. When I took out the take-up roll to set up the whole thing out of the camera I was in a delicate position with no insert to hold onto the take-up roll.

Retired CPO Loc: Travel full time in an RV

I used a 6x4.5 Mamiya for years. No problems but it used an insert that you set up to the wind mark and then inserted into the back of the body.

E.L.. Shapiro Loc: Ottawa, Ontario Canada

Back in the day, long, long ago, before I went to the Hasselblad system and of course, very long before the digital era, I used Rolleiflex for all my wedding photography. I had 6 of them- a 2.8, a 3.5, a Tele-Rollei and a Rollei-Wide! Obviously, no interchangeable lenses or backs so I had to learn to work quickly, especially at reloading times! I had to be able to load them with my eyes closed or just about in my sleep.

Most of the paper backing on roll films had an ample taper at the feeding end of the paper to facilitate easy insertion in the takeup spool. That was the case with most of the Kodak materials. Some of the imported brands had less taper so I would pop off the label band in advance, trim the end and reseal it with low-tack masking tape. Because the paper has to be slipped THROUGH the rollers to activate the film-feeler mechanism, it is fairly easy to keep control of the paper backing.

If I recall correctly, some of the spools had both a wider and smaller entrance slot to the core of the spool- make sure to start with the wider side and to hold the end of the tab in place with your finger as soon as it comes through the other side of the core, and the star to advance the film by cranking slowly until you are sure the attachment is secure.

You can go online to www.butkus.org and access a PDF of the manual for your Rolleiflex model. Therein contains the manufacturer's recommended loading procedure. Unlike some of the current "manuals," the Rollei folks were very precise and specific and they provided many detailed diagrams and illustrations and all the instructions were in very understandable English!

Great cameras! I Routinely made 30x40 prints from my Rollei negatives.

petelush

Thanks. After I posted I had a cloudy thought abut the wide end and narrow end of the spool. The annoying thing is years ago I learned how to do this but the muscle memory didn't stick today. I have the manual that came with the Rollei (bought new) and I see it does make your point about entering through the wider end.

TriX Loc: Raleigh, NC

I think E.L. Has nailed it. Happy shooting (and if that is now politically incorrect, happy exposing. Hmmm, that may be worse 😩)

Keen

Each camera is a bit different. I have experience with a Mamiya RB67 Pro, and a Pentax 67. I would suggest reading your owner's manual, and practicing.

Pablo8 Loc: Nottingham UK.

EL has given one of the lesser known facts about the slots in the spools. Good advice. As a follow-up to loading, I used a method of securing the backing paper of a filled spool. Instead of folding the backing paper down and attaching the sticky label to the outside surfaces, leave the end of the backing paper protruding, and stick the label to the inner surface of the backing paper. Thus giving a portion (1-2") of backing paper, that is easy to pull/ break the seal in the dark, prior to loading the film in the developing spool. Trying to slit the label with a short thumbnail used to be a pain. Not any more.

Pablo8 Loc: Nottingham UK.

Further to my previous post have added this picture of the standard way, and my way, of sealing an exposed film roll. (A picture is worth a thousand words, so they say).

A.J.R. Loc: Devon, UK

For over 40 years I worked as a professional using Rollei's (with Ilford and Kodak films) and I cant remember once ever having problems loading the film. Would it be that films manufactured now have a different shaped paper leader that is causing your problem?

jerryc41 Loc: Catskill Mts of NY

The secret is to remove the spool and make a few winds by hand.

With 35mm, I would hold the film in place inside the slot while I cranked the advance lever - if that was even necessary.

CWGordon

EL comments are what this forum is all about. It was highly informative and provided assistance to another member. It was professional, to the point, did not contain any negative or political comments. Taking the time to write a detailed explanation has to be greatly by anyone who has ever tried using 120 film. This is what our forum is supposed to be about. Thank you.

CWGordon

EL comments are what this forum is all about. It was highly informative and provided assistance to another member. It was professional, to the point, did not contain any negative or political comments. Taking the time to write a detailed explanation has to be greatly by anyone who has ever tried using 120 film. This is what our forum is supposed to be about. Thank you.

CWGordon

I forgot to put “appreciated” after the word greatly. Mea Culpa.