I have an old ColorMunki colorimeter from a number of years ago and it won't work with my new BenQ monitor. So I need to buy something new. In looking at B&H they have two choices within my price range and I'm just wondering if someone has used them.

One is the Calibrite Color Checker Display which I think is made by the company that made my ColorMunki and it's priced at $169.

The Datacolor SpyderX Elite is in a package that includes a Checker 24 Color Chart and a Spyder CUBE Exposure Calibration tool for $149.50 which is on sale from $299. Naturally, everyone likes a good sale, I'm just asking if the SpyderX Elite is a product that can get the job done.

Speed Graphics in all of their sizes had grips of one sort or another. You see them in pictures from the 1930s, Common right side grip doubled as the battery case for the flash gun and electric solenoid shutter release. In the absence of a flash a wooden dowel worked too. The brackets for the handle came standard on the camera body.

The ‘potato masher’ style electronic flash units, like the Honeywell Futuramic design of the 1960s fit on a bracket that made them effectively handles. The hardware of those Honeywell brackets was built to the same diameter as the older Heiland flash guns used on the Graphlex cameras, and that diameter became a defacto standard through the 70s.

A different type of handle was on the left side of the camera—a leather hand strap that you put your hand inside. On the German Linhof Technikas there was an anatomically shaped hand grip on the left side which had a cable release for triggering the shutter.

Rolleiflex had a pistol grip that attached under the camera. Novoflex and others had handles and pistol grips in rifle stock shapes to support long telephoto lenses. The triggers on these were either used for focus or had a cable release built in.

Aerial cameras in WWII had built in handles on both sides so they could be held.

Just a few I remember. Handles go back a long way.

First and foremost — *Canon will not charge you for help*!! You’ve dialed a spoofing number. Go to USA.canon.com (on tablet and don’t know how to copy exact link) and then find their ‘support’ page for the correct phone number.

But also, I would agree with the several comments about using 3d party inks - especially the ‘bargain’ brands. (There are some, such as precisioncolors.com that have reputations for top quality products and good communication with customers.)

You may have to purchase and install a new print head - probably around $200 to $300 - or just replace the printer with a newer Pro-200 model. OEM ink is less expensive on the newer Pro-200, but still not cheap.

The newer Canon Pro-200 will Not accept 3rd party ink cartridges. The OEM cartridges are completely black now and you cannot see how much ink is left versus the Pro-100. The Pro-100 cartridges are see through. Also there are not any chip resetters for the Pro-200. Seems Canon has dried up that market with their new printers. I sold my Pro-200 just for this reason and bought a New Pro-100 which accepts 3rd party ink cartridges. I print a lot of pictures. I also use Precision Colors ink and cartridges with No issues. I cannot tell Any difference with Precision inks and OEM. Pro-200 uses the same print head as the Pro-100.

I have the Pro-100 Canon and I have been using non-OEM Cartridges for well over 3 years now and haven't had a problem as yet. I have a friend that is pretty much a wizard with the P-100 and he tells me that after some time from cleaning the print heads and etc. the ink collects in the bottom of the case. This might be your problem.
When I bought my P-100 I bought a 2nd one to keep still boxed as a back up. I buy my ink from LD Products and haven't had a problem yet. My printer is only a very few years old.

By the way, LD Products guarantees their Cartridges for life. I have only had a problem with one and they sent me a replacement no charge.