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Posts for: Tronjo
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Dec 2, 2018 12:00:15   #
My advice to you will be to gather some statistics of the zoom range you use with your 18-200 now and from there figure out which lens to go with. When I had D810 I was mostly using 24-120 F/4 when traveling, but I was missing the 2.8 aperture. After one of there travels in Europe, the FL statistics showed that less than 7% of the shots were made with FL over 70mm. As a result, my traveling lens now is 24-70 F/2.8.
starlifter wrote:
I'm curious as to what lens most people use on their D 810's. I may be only dreaming but I'm going to run it by my chief financial officer about upgrading from my D7200 and I'm looking at the D810. I see it most often paired with the 24-120. That seems short as I use the 18-200 on my D 7200. Any opinions would be appreciated.
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Nov 25, 2018 18:40:33   #
Bob,
As you correctly noted, diffraction occurs even when light wave passes around a corner. Since "corner" can be considered a slit with infinitely large dimensions, there is a disagreement between the first and the second part of your sentence. If we will talk physics, the diffraction equations that describe the effect become unsolvable when the dimensions of the diffracting object become smaller than the wavelength, when other effects take place.

[quote=rmalarz]Well, actually it is, or is it?

Diffraction of light occurs when a light wave passes by a corner or through an opening or slit that is physically the approximate size of, or even smaller than that light's wavelength.
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Oct 12, 2018 10:13:41   #
I would use a CP filter to suppress the distracting reflections.
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Oct 4, 2018 14:36:21   #
The reflections from the water are too harsh and distracting. A polarizing filter may have helped here.
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Sep 28, 2018 10:09:57   #
Yes, it compresses and depending on your setting it may backup only the sectors that are being used.
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Aug 28, 2018 16:45:25   #
safeman wrote:
Weird thoughts come to old people with too much time on their hands.

Should we continue to call ourselves photographers? Photographers record analog images on film, process and print the images creating photographs and if you are a professional sell these little pieces of reality as a source of income. I suggest that we have become collectors and manipulators of electrons. For many, if not most of us, the great majority of our electron collections remain just that--electrons. I sent my last roll of film in for processing and what did I get back, a link to a web site so I could retrieve my electron collections. I have begun thinking of my images stored on my computer as Electron Collections and the prints stored in my photo albums and files as pictures. Electron collections only become images when they are viewed or printed.

Before I change my mind I am going to send this and see what happens
Weird thoughts come to old people with too much ti... (show quote)


I don't see a real difference: Before being developed any photo emulsion medium, film included, contains only a latent image. The difference is that the film is being developed only once, while a file containing latent image can be "developed" infinite number of times using infinite variations of the development process. Immediately after the shot though, both media contain only latent images.
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Aug 15, 2018 10:35:42   #
AZ Dog wrote:
I subscribe to the magazine "Arizona Highways" and the yearly photo contest winners have been published. This is open to both amateurs and professionals. This years grand prize winner shot was taken with a Fugifilm X-T2. This is to show that the most expensive DSLR's no longer rule the domain.


Another example of wrong Cause and Effect Relationship conclusion. So common nowadays!
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Aug 13, 2018 18:12:41   #
burkphoto wrote:
I helped guide a pro portrait lab through the transition from film to digital. Having made that journey, I am convinced by the entirety of it that I need never use film again.

The best recent full frame digital cameras are better than most 120 film when that film is exposed to 6x4.5 cm images. Only a handful of specialty films can resolve more, until you get up to 9x6cm, 4"x5", and larger films.

It used to be that most of us dreaded making any prints larger than about 11x14 from medium and high speed (ISO 125 and 400) 35mm films. These days, even lowly Micro 4/3 cameras generate very nice images at ISO 800 that are acceptable at 16x20. APS-C bumps that up by 2/3 to 1 stop, and full frame by another stop for roughly equivalent image quality.

There are so many advantages to digital imaging that we never had with film, I can't list them all.

For all but THE most critical uses, digital cameras are — or can be — better than film.

If you're a film photographer, that's fine. Many still enjoy the processing and printing, and the care and thought that goes into full manual exposure. I used film for 40 years. I made B&W and color prints, slides and transparencies, and processed it all. But we live in a different world now, one which travels at the speed of light. My Lumix camera WiFi can send images to my iPhone, for immediate tweaking and upload to the Internet. The same camera I use for stills can capture stunning 4K video with great audio from external audio sources. And it's smaller than my Nikon F3.

Does digital imaging take a lot of getting used to, with a long, steep learning curve? Oh, HELL yes! But it's sort of like scratching through a brick wall with your fingernails, or learning a computer. Once you break through that wall, once you know what you're doing, you're in this giant toy store with all the coolest things you could ever want to play with!

Just a reality check... Here's a list of the things you'll need to do digital photography right:

dSLR or MILC/DSLC/EVIL camera and lens(es)
Fast computer (Mac or Windows) (dual or quad core, fast video, 8 to 16 GB RAM, 500GB hard drive, more resources would be better)
Really good monitor (not a laptop monitor!) (at least 1920x1080 pixel resolution)
Real, hardware-and-software monitor calibration kit (from DataColor or X-Rite)
Software such as Adobe Photographer Bundle (Lightroom Classic CC, Photoshop CC, Bridge, ACR...) or Affinity Photo or Capture One Pro, or Photoshop Elements or...)
Relationship with a good pro lab OR a photo quality inkjet printer, OEM ink, and inkjet photo papers with ICC profiles
TRAINING AND EDUCATION AND TENACITY AND PATIENCE
EXPERIENCE

Fortunately, practically everything you knew/know about film photography has a matching counterpart in digital photography. The physics of light have not changed!
I helped guide a pro portrait lab through the tran... (show quote)


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Aug 12, 2018 13:09:46   #
GENorkus wrote:
I've got two monitors. One is a year old 24" LG Ultra Wide, the other is an older model and regular shape 19" Samsung. Both are self calibrated by me using a blank sheet of print paper from my regular printer service.

The older model Samsung monitor was needing calibration so often that I, (hey, it's about 15 years old!), only use it sparingly. One of these days I'll get another newer monitor to match the LG. (Love it)


I am also curious about how this works. Please elaborate.
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Aug 12, 2018 13:04:49   #
Gene51 wrote:
LR works great with 6-8 core with multi-threading. The current i7 8th gen is an ideal platform for LR, and a XEON is even better - much better. Photoshop doesn't use the extra cores beyond the basic quad core.


As far as utilizing the cores you seems to be right - on my 8 physical cores machine a simple burning action with the brush registered increased activity of all cores. Did the test on a 24Mp image from a6000. There was still a perceptual delay in displaying the effect, although I have a professional graphics with 8Gb video memory and HW acceleration, 32GB main memory and with LR I use a dedicated scratch SSD on which also the LR catalog resides. For me, on a higher pixel-size file from D810 (even more from D850), this delay was intolerable, so I gave up and move to another application.
Granted, my LR is standalone 6.14 and the new subscription version may have been improved.
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Aug 12, 2018 11:04:51   #
stanperry wrote:
What’s your favorite free standing monitor? What size? Do you calibrate the colors?


Currently I am with NEC PA272W (there should be a newer model). It supports HD calibration with i1Display Pro sensor.
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Aug 12, 2018 11:00:17   #
Lightbender50 wrote:
Anyone besides me have a frustrating time with the sluggish performance of LR Classic tools? Brush, spot adjustment are disappointing, frustrating and slow with unwanted artifacts appearing as well. I appeal to the experienced and kind hearted Hoogers for your suggestions on improving speed and performance. Adobe tech help is evasive and seemingly unwilling to help.
Most gratefully,
Roger


I was also frustrated and that was one of the reasons I abandoned it. It looks like LR Classic does not use multi-core CPUs to full capacity (old code maybe?). While I was using it though, I found that more memory and using dedicated solid state HD as a scratch improve the performance, particularly the later.
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Aug 1, 2018 10:30:01   #
PAR4DCR wrote:
This has been discussed in the forum but I would like to get a little different twist on it. I would only like to hear from photographers who use it and for what type of photography, sports, BIF, landscape, etc. I am thinking about trying it and have done some research.
Has it helped or hurt your keeper rate?
How long did it take you to get used to it?
After trying it did you go back to shutter button focus?
If you are shooting BIF how do you know where to lock in focus if you are waiting for action to happen?
Any other pros, cons are tips will be appreciated.

Thanks,

Don
This has been discussed in the forum but I would l... (show quote)


Using it all the time, for all types of photography. The only way to know if it is good for you is to try it.
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Aug 1, 2018 10:27:02   #
Allen hammer wrote:
I am all stressed out after learning of the situation with Canon 5D Mark IV and raw files. I was shooting along just fine til I recently bought in to the idea that RAW is the only way to shoot if you are a "serious". Well I am thinking now that maybe it's a bit of hype and that most folks could not tell a raw processed shot from jpeg. I would welcome some discussion on this. Thanks


This has been discussed countless times, just do a search. Apart from that, please define "serious"
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Jul 31, 2018 13:15:06   #
Hsch39 wrote:
I think you will find that 1/2.3″ means (1 divided by 2.3)” or 0.434″ = 11mm and that is the diagonal measure of the sensor.


It is actually much smaller than 11mm. According to Wikipedia the inch notation of sensor sizes came to life long ago when they started replacing the camera tubes. At that time, 1" camera tube had a sensitive area of about 16mm diagonal, so sensors with 16mm diagonal were called 1" sensors. According to this notation, 1/2.3" sensor will have (depending on the manufacturer) something like 7.7mm diagonal. Full table of sensor sizes: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Image_sensor_format
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