Posts for: TMcL
Jun 6, 2019 00:18:07 #
Thanks for your responses everyone. I decided to go with Smugmug for a variety of reasons, not least of which is that I prefer not to have anything to do with the likes of Amazon, Google, and the other big boys.
Jun 5, 2019 02:28:23 #
Cheese wrote:
Have you tried Google Photo? It's free.
It's my understanding that when you share an album on Google Photos, the persons you share the album with can add to, edit, or even delete the album. I want people I'm sharing with to be able to see the album and perhaps download photos, not delete them.
Can anyone using Google Photos confirm if this is the case?
Jun 4, 2019 17:48:49 #
frankraney wrote:
If you are an Amazon prime member, you get unlimited photo storage. I use it to share photos. Albums can be created. If not a member, it costs $10/mo and other benefit come with it..... You can upload all photo formats. They have an app that you can use to do the uploading and it's fast. I use it as a backup source also....
Not a member, but I will take a look at it. Thank you. is this the site you mean:
https://www.amazon.com/b/?_bncoding=UTF8&node=15547130011&ref_=sd_allcat_ods_tv_con_cd&tag=mh0b-20&hvadid=78408958110228&hvqmt=e&hvbmt=bb&hvdev=c&ref=pd_sl_4mcswclio_b
Looks like a storage site more than a sharing site. Do you lose all of your data if you stop being a Prime member?
Jun 4, 2019 17:44:29 #
alvin3232 wrote:
Another option you could try is a MyCloud external storage and that gives you the space you need. Anywhere from a 1TB to a 4TB or more and
you manage it and you can provide access to who needs access to it. It can be accessed anywhere. Best option you do not have to pay anyone.
https://mycloud.com/#/
you manage it and you can provide access to who needs access to it. It can be accessed anywhere. Best option you do not have to pay anyone.
https://mycloud.com/#/
I don't like the idea of giving someone access to MY cloud! I would much rather share albums on a Google or DropBox cloud.
Jun 4, 2019 17:42:07 #
asymptotic_maybe wrote:
Recently, I switched to One Drive. Don't know if ... (show quote)
I don't have Office 365, but did try OneDrive a while back. I found the user interface was not very intuitive. I do use it for email attachments that are too large but could not figure out how to create albums or import folders. Also, it seems to apply tags which are not always appropriate, and could not figure out how to re-name tags and other basic functions.
I'll take another look at it. Thank you.
Jun 4, 2019 13:59:41 #
I would like to upload photos both for storage as well as to create photo albums.
Requirements:
- Approx 1TB of space, with option to add later
- Upload without compression
- Uploading RAW for storage; JPG for albums
- Some albums password protected; other available to all
- Viewer has ability to download and/or print
- $10/month or less
I have been using Dropbox, but am looking for something different.
Any suggestions?
.
Requirements:
- Approx 1TB of space, with option to add later
- Upload without compression
- Uploading RAW for storage; JPG for albums
- Some albums password protected; other available to all
- Viewer has ability to download and/or print
- $10/month or less
I have been using Dropbox, but am looking for something different.
Any suggestions?
.
May 1, 2019 01:34:47 #
Grahame wrote:
It appears that this may be your first attempt at timelapse and the duration you are intending to record is quite extensive. I would advise that you first undertake an experiment at producing a short 8 second video/200 shot approx trial. There would be nothing more frustrating than shooting thousands of images over a few hours only to find that when producing your movie you got something wrong.
In addition if you can advise what your subject/scene is some additional tips may be possible.
In addition if you can advise what your subject/scene is some additional tips may be possible.
I don't have a specific application in mind. It's one of the functionalities of the camera that I have not used, and was curious about.
Apr 30, 2019 15:36:56 #
Grahame wrote:
Whilst manual focusing is the norm any change in aperture that is caused by an 'auto' mode during the sequence is going to alter the DoF of the scene/object.
I see what you mean. I think my original plan to shoot in P mode is probably the best. Thanks for the clarification.
Apr 30, 2019 11:14:22 #
jerryc41 wrote:
Lots of links with good info. br br http://makeav... (show quote)
Thanks, Jerry. Lots to read up on here!
Apr 30, 2019 11:13:22 #
Gene51 wrote:
And it could have been shorter since nothing happens until :32 - but the actual opening of the flower was pretty abrupt. It probably would have made sense to shoot 7200 images every 2.5 seconds and edit the final time lapse to shorten the part where nothing happens. Tethering a camera to a computer or laptop that is attached to external power, as well as an external power supply for the camera would be a good idea, as well.
Thanks for your insights.
I do have an external power supply for the camera, but it is not tethered to an external monitor. The LCD screen on my 5D4 blanks out when in time lapse mode. Would I be able to see anything on an external monitor?
Also, does the camera take 7200 pictures at full resolution? I just wondering how big a card I need to have to fit 7200 images.
Apr 30, 2019 11:07:16 #
Grahame wrote:
My 1st priority was that the DoF (aperture) remained constant as I do not want a video where the foreground is changing between sharp and blurred.
My 1st priority was that the DoF (aperture) remained constant as I do not want a video where the foreground is changing between sharp and blurred.
I was planning to use manual focusing. Wouldn't that take care of this?
Apr 30, 2019 02:07:30 #
Grahame wrote:
Generally two rates are used, 24 fps or 30 fps, so 10 seconds of finished video is 240-300 images shot
Do you think full auto mode would work?
Apr 30, 2019 01:39:15 #
I'm planning to do some time lapse photography using the built in intervalometer of my 5D4, and am looking for some tips. I will be taking time lapse photos for about 5 hours, from approx 11 am to 4 pm. I would like the final result to run about 10 to 20 minutes. I plan to use a 24/70 lens, set at approx 35mm, since I do not have a 35mm prime.
Here's my plan. Let me know what you think:
Manual focus
F/5.6
ISO 200
1/250 sec
AC power
Tripod
Here's what I'm trying to figure out:
How do I account for changing light conditions over the 5 hours?
How do I figure out how many frames per minute, to capture enough shots for a 10 to 15 minute video?
Any insights you can offer will be of great help. Thanks.
Here's my plan. Let me know what you think:
Manual focus
F/5.6
ISO 200
1/250 sec
AC power
Tripod
Here's what I'm trying to figure out:
How do I account for changing light conditions over the 5 hours?
How do I figure out how many frames per minute, to capture enough shots for a 10 to 15 minute video?
Any insights you can offer will be of great help. Thanks.
Mar 12, 2019 17:16:28 #
MT Shooter wrote:
Its biggest drawback is all the crap that falls inside the (always up pointing) empty hole. You would always need to keep a body cap on it to prevent all that crap from falling into a lens when it is rotated into the down position. Its just another " not well thought out" gimmick to get a handfull of your hard earned dollars.
It's designed so you don't have to carry the body caps with you. The "empty hole" is meant to be covered by the lens cap of the active lens.
Wish I had known about this a few weeks ago, before I dropped and ruined a 24-70 f/2.8. The $170 "gimmick" may have saved me the $1,700 replacement cost of the broken lens.
Mar 12, 2019 12:29:47 #
Haydon wrote:
The version one of the 24-70 2.8L was a thorn to m... (show quote)
I never owned the version I, but loved the version II. It replaced the 50 f/1.4 as my walk-about lens. IS is not a major concern for me, and if I need the extra focal length I suppose I can switch to the 70-200. I have heard rumors of a version III over the horizon, but that could just be pie in the sky. Thanks for your insight.