TMcL

I'm planning to do some time lapse photography using the built in intervalometer of my 5D4, and am looking for some tips. I will be taking time lapse photos for about 5 hours, from approx 11 am to 4 pm. I would like the final result to run about 10 to 20 minutes. I plan to use a 24/70 lens, set at approx 35mm, since I do not have a 35mm prime.

Here's my plan. Let me know what you think:

Manual focus
F/5.6
ISO 200
1/250 sec
AC power
Tripod

Here's what I'm trying to figure out:
How do I account for changing light conditions over the 5 hours?
How do I figure out how many frames per minute, to capture enough shots for a 10 to 15 minute video?

Any insights you can offer will be of great help. Thanks.

Grahame Loc: Fiji

You can use an 'Auto' mode such as Auto ISO if speed and aperture are priorities. There is also software available that will 'balance' the light value of a batch of images or ramp it.



Generally two rates are used, 24 fps or 30 fps, so 10 seconds of finished video is 240-300 images shot

TMcL

Do you think full auto mode would work?

Grahame Loc: Fiji

As with any single image you shoot you will have priorities regarding speed, aperture and ISO to use for a given subject.

As an example, the last timelapse I shot was of a harbour with mountains in the distance.

My 1st priority was that the DoF (aperture) remained constant as I do not want a video where the foreground is changing between sharp and blurred.

My 2nd priority was that the speed always froze 'moving' subjects within the scene. This could be achieved setting a constant speed OR setting a minimum speed in a auto mode.

For your project where it is daytime you may be able to maintain a fixed ISO.

Linary Loc: UK

The calculations above indicate that a 10 minute show will require 14400 - 18000 frames.

Have I understood the maths correctly?

russelray Loc: La Mesa CA

Yes.

My question would be why you are set on 10 minutes. That's a very long time to watch a time-lapse video.

Here is my time lapse of a giant 12-inch flower opening on a Stapelia gigantea. It's 5 hours of real time with pictures taken every 5 seconds, 3,600 pictures, to create a 1:04 video.

https://youtu.be/cxmy6Jw8y1o

Gene51 Loc: Yonkers, NY, now in LSD (LowerSlowerDelaware)

And it could have been shorter since nothing happens until :32 - but the actual opening of the flower was pretty abrupt. It probably would have made sense to shoot 7200 images every 2.5 seconds and edit the final time lapse to shorten the part where nothing happens. Tethering a camera to a computer or laptop that is attached to external power, as well as an external power supply for the camera would be a good idea, as well.

jerryc41 Loc: Catskill Mts of NY

Lots of links with good info.

http://makeavi.sourceforge.net/
http://www.diyphotography.net/everything-ever-needed-know-shooting-editing-timelapse/
http://makezine.com/projects/how-to-capture-breathtaking-time-lapses-of-the-night-sky/
http://motion.resourcemagonline.com/2015/11/in-depth-tutorial-on-shooting-motion-star-timelapses/281/
http://www.haworth-village.org.uk/nature/time-lapse/tutorial/how-time-lapse.asp
http://digital-photography-school.com/how-to-make-a-time-lapse-video-with-your-dslr/
http://content.photojojo.com/tutorials/ultimate-guide-to-time-lapse-photography/
http://www.joelefevrephoto.com/resources/MakingTime-lapseMoviesNotes.pdf
http://digital-photography-school.com/how-to-shoot-and-process-a-time-lapse-movie-quick-method/
http://www.lightstalking.com/10-tips-on-time-lapse-photography-to-help-you-create-breathtaking-videos/

TMcL

I was planning to use manual focusing. Wouldn't that take care of this?

TMcL

Thanks for your insights.

I do have an external power supply for the camera, but it is not tethered to an external monitor. The LCD screen on my 5D4 blanks out when in time lapse mode. Would I be able to see anything on an external monitor?

Also, does the camera take 7200 pictures at full resolution? I just wondering how big a card I need to have to fit 7200 images.

TMcL

Thanks, Jerry. Lots to read up on here!

russelray Loc: La Mesa CA

Watch it very carefully and you can see the big one opening before :32. It does help to be familiar with these flowers so you know where to keep your eye. They also are called carrion flowers, and the smell is intense for flies, so they show up even before the flower opens. That's all the little dots flying around. My plant audience never would have forgiven me if I had cut out that first 32 seconds. The more experienced people with these flowers encouraged me to redo the video and include the parts that they believed I deleted from the first part of the video. I didn't delete anything, but next time I'll be prepared to start taking pictures well before my eyes can tell that it's starting to open. That's where the extra power will come in handy.

I have three of these videos, my first three since this is the first time that my plant has had flowers on it. Now that I know just how long it takes for one to open, this coming year I'll have lighting, an umbrella to prevent shadows from the sun and clouds, and extra power.

I also have lots of timelapse videos of sunrises and sunsets. A research group at the University of California San Diego hired me to make several. This is one of my favorites:

https://youtu.be/EWE0qmacBGI

russelray Loc: La Mesa CA

You can set the camera to take whatever resolution you desire. I usually shoot in RAW only, but for my time lapse videos, I shoot in highest resolution JPG.

Grahame Loc: Fiji

Whilst manual focusing is the norm any change in aperture that is caused by an 'auto' mode during the sequence is going to alter the DoF of the scene/object.

TMcL

I see what you mean. I think my original plan to shoot in P mode is probably the best. Thanks for the clarification.