I am a hobbyist only...I purchased the Sony a7iii with a 24-105 lens a few months ago to use for travel.

I have been a Nikon shooter and love my D7500 and the great lenses (16-80, 50, and 70-300) I have with that system....

however, the Sony is just so amazing that I am shooting with it almost exclusively....(I take photos for my own pleasure, do not do anything professionally and am certainly just a fairly competent amateur)....

now I am thinking I should sell my Nikon equipment and use that money purchase another lens for the Sony....

Should I do it? Pull me back from the ledge if I will regret that move!!!!!

Pam, when I'm finished with my processing I save the entire image/layer structure to a .psd file. From that file, I can create the necessary sized jpg file I desire. All of the work is done in PS. I rarely use LR.

Since I rarely use LR, I'm not sure what it's output file choices are. If nothing native to only LR or PS is available, from what you stated, I'd suggest saving the final edits as an uncompressed .tif file. Then, if you need to produce a jpg file of a certain size you can open the tif file resize it and save as jpg. Just don't save over your "original" tif file.
--Bob

....coupled with a Sony a mount to e mount adapter and tried both out with my Tamron 150 - 600 lens and it worked pretty good.I'm still getting to grips with the camera which in time will be a great walk around
camera instead of lugging the a mount cameras about when we have our holiday breaks.Anyway i digress and i've been out with the new camera using the big Tamron plus the adapter (LA-EA4) on a few bird shots to see how it went and i was quite happy with the photos i got.

I catalog EVERYTHING, including Mother's raw sent for fixing. Why, because three years from now, she will not be able to find it in her clutter but you can find it in a few seconds. And you will love to hear her say "I did not raise dummies."

We all deal with workflow differently. Here is mine. I use stars to denote the status in editing. 1, reject (move to the reject folder under the folder having all the files). 2, blank. 3, to be processed. 4, processed. 5, print. All 3's eventually become 1's or 4's. I may export a 4 if I like it enough and want to show others. I export it as a jpg to a subfolder called Email. The 5's all go for printing at Costco. For small prints, I use jpg. For larger ones, 16-bit TIFF's. The important thing is to develop a system and then stick to it. No exceptions. Use your mental energy for developing the pictures and not housekeeping.

This is important. Most of use develop 90% or more of our pictures in LR and do not need PS or other products. LR has a lot to offer and learn it thoroughly. You will be surprised how much it does.

The Internet standard color space is sRGB! Adobe RGB has a color gamut much wider than most monitors can display. It’s also a wider color gamut than most processes can print. That means you’ll view or print a very dull image.

If you are an advanced enthusiast or professional with serious color management experience, you’ll probably use:

> ProPhoto RGB for a “working” or intermediate color space. This is an extremely wide gamut space that preserves everything until your final, finished file export.

> Adobe RGB for high end inkjet and commercial printing. It’s meant for the very finest photo reproductions and multi-color offset printing or gravure. To really get the most from it, your monitor must be capable of displaying the entire Adobe RGB gamut.

> sRGB for standard wet process silver halide “photo lab” printing, the Internet, all business monitor displays... and everything else.

If you use Adobe RGB, either control the ENTIRE process yourself, or work with someone who has specifically requested Adobe RGB, or is equipped to handle it properly.

As a former photo lab manager, pre-press preparation manager, trainer, and photographer, I can tell you that Adobe RGB is great stuff, BUT, it has fouled up more good images than it has fixed!