Ugly Hedgehog - Photography Forum
Home Active Topics Newest Pictures Search Login Register
Posts for: alfeng
Page: <<prev 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 ... 18 next>>
Sep 28, 2018 08:27:13   #
BHC wrote:
???

???


Go to
Sep 28, 2018 08:26:40   #
Morning Star wrote:
Well, I'm sorry if I repeated what you had already said. No, I take that back, I'm not. I had already visited this thread several times, each time starting with the post listed in the e-mail I received. And yes, sometimes I forget what I've already read - blame it on my gray hair!
As to the size and weight of an m4/3 camera, I don't know the weight of all the different models, but the m4/3 I have (Oly OM-D E-M1) would be too heavy for left-handed use. Heck, it's even too heavy for right-handed use without the help of the left hand!
Well, I'm sorry if I repeated what you had already... (show quote)

Sorry for the confusion with regard to my re-posting my earlier post ...

It was re-posted merely to demonstrate to BHC that I was on topic in my initial posts in this thread.



Go to
Sep 28, 2018 05:58:33   #
PicsFixer wrote:
Do you know of a company that makes a conversion mount for Minolta [SRT 101] lens to Olympus [E5]. I've got some really great lenses for my film cams that I'd like to use with the DigiCam.

You can check eBay where you will be able to find hollow tube lens mount adapters for most vintage lens mounts to most digital camera body mounts.


Go to
Sep 27, 2018 19:16:47   #
Morning Star wrote:
If one were to turn a P&S upside down, the shutter release button could be pushed down (up?) with the left thumb, without having to reach across the camera.
Although the thumb is not nearly sensitive or agile as the index finger, it just could be a solution for left-handed folks who have smallish hands.

To quote myself from my FIRST post in this thread:

Yes, turning the camera upside down should work very well ...

… While the on-screen menus (and, the labels on the 'buttons') will be inconveniently upside down (I think that the OP's granddaughter should be able to overcome those hurdles without too much trouble), too, the shutter release can be easily actuated with an individual's LEFT THUMB.

I think that the size-and-weight an m4/3 camera would be a good choice if the OP wants to choose a camera for his granddaughter which has interchangeable lenses.



Go to
Sep 27, 2018 18:55:09   #
BHC wrote:
Oh, for crying out loud, quit acting like children and get back to the serious subject of this thread. Offer some helpful comments or go away.

Well, not-for-nothing, but your post adds less than my first two posts in this thread did ... my first post in this thread reinforced another's remark & the second offered ways in which the OP's granddaughter might be able to handle a camera while using only her left hand after I questioned whether nadelewitz's inquiry was a "real" question ...

Your "open" post prompts an "open" reply (below).

BTW. nadlelewitz apparently felt like taking his remarks "private" ...
nadelewitz wrote:
Re: What a jerk

You are an asshole. No, I am not a snowflake or any of the other things you had to say about me.
Who put the bug up your ass?
Do not respond, publicly or privately, please. I don't need to hear from you again.

Again, is asking if a person is asking a "real question" being rude?

Is asking how often an individual looks at the controls on his camera rude?!?

... OR, should I inquire if nadelewitz's question wasn't rudely postured?

... After all, nadelewitz's post seemed more rhetorical because of the seemingly snarky & sarcastic remarks which were embedded in the question ("How do you read info on a display....viewfinder, lcd or top of camera.....if the camera is upside-down?"), yet I took the time to provide a REAL reply to hopefully provide some ways which the OP's granddaughter might be able to shoot pictures with her left hand.

If nadelewitz isn't a "Snowflake" then he is a Troll who is not unlike others who appear to feel that insincerity within THEIR gratuitous, drive-by remarks cannot be questioned & thereby reveal them to be who they pretend not to be.



Go to
Sep 26, 2018 20:30:00   #
nadelewitz wrote:
Well excuse me, but yes, it was a real question. Matter of fact, your rudeness made me not even want to read your whole response.
Hava a nice day.

WHAT?!?

So, you consider that asking YOU how often you look at the controls on your camera is being rude?

Sheesh ...

... I guess you are the type of person who some other people might label as a "Snowflake."

Wear it with pride!



Go to
Sep 26, 2018 15:54:45   #
mvetrano2 wrote:
I bought her a simple point-and-shoot, but she has a very difficult time using it. She comes with me taking photos and would like to take them on her own. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

BTW. I guess that most point-and-shoot cameras have lenses which retract into the camera body ...

If that is the case with the camera which you bought for your granddaughter, then I recommend that you consider EPOXYing a 34mm (?) to 52mm step-up ring on the front of the "lens" ...

... YOU need to measure the diameter of the portion of the actual lens which protrudes-and-nests to ensure that the step-up ring doesn't interfere with the lens retracting back into the camera body ... so, 34mm may not be the correct size ... 52mm accessories seem to be the most easily procured, so that is why I recommend that size.

... You ALSO need to be careful that whatever adhesive you use doesn't impede the gates which typically protect the retracted lens from opening-and-closing ...

... and, after the epoxy has set, screw a 52mm hood onto the front of the lens.


Go to
Sep 26, 2018 15:27:22   #
nadelewitz wrote:
How do you read info on a display....viewfinder, lcd or top of camera.....if the camera is upside-down?

Is this a real question?!?

Okay ...

I guess I will begin by asking "How often do YOU need to look at your camera's controls when you are taking pictures?!?"

Regardless, with auto-this-and-that, all MOST people really need to do is choose the ISO to ensure the 'shutter speed' isn't too slow and then point-and-shoot.

If necessary, if a person is shooting with the camera upside down and IF a person really needs to access-and-use the menu THEN it would simply require the individual loosen one's grip on the lens & rotate the camera ...

... If the OP's granddaughter cannot grip the lens with her right hand, she can EITHER create a platform with her right thumb-and-index-finger on which the camera can be propped OR the camera can be propped on her right forearm ...

... If-or-when she feels a need to read the menu, then she can grip the lens with her left hand and then rotate the camera while keeping her right hand/forearm underneath the camera.

BTW. IF the camera has a viewfinder "bump" then the bump can nest in the gap between the thumb-and-index-finger ...

... If the lens is relatively heavy (e.g., "vintage glass") compared to a contemporary lens, then the lens-and-camera can be balanced in a crook in the right elbow created by the forearm & upper arm.

OF COURSE, the 'safety net' of a neck strap is probably a good idea for most people, so the OP's granddaughter should probably use one, too.



Go to
Sep 26, 2018 13:47:23   #
PeterBergh wrote:
How about turning the camera upside down? Obviously, this will not work on a tripod, but handheld should work.

Yes, turning the camera upside down should work very well ...

… While the on-screen menus (and, the labels on the 'buttons') will be inconveniently upside down (I think that the OP's granddaughter should be able to overcome those hurdles without too much trouble), too, the shutter release can be easily actuated with an individual's LEFT THUMB.

I think that the size-and-weight an m4/3 camera would be a good choice if the OP wants to choose a camera for his granddaughter which has interchangeable lenses.



Go to
Aug 28, 2018 12:49:12   #
donrosshill wrote:
This is an interesting post. Having been a photographer for over 60+ years and having done more weddings than I can recall, I would like everyone to know that it simply does not just boil down to snapping the shutter ...

... I am a professional photographer and would never even consider taking my camera to someone else wedding. It is a question of respect. I know that some will not agree with me and I will get lots of opinions, all I can say is "Swing Away"

I could very well be wrong, but I reckon that the reason that MOST people who are NOT the "official" photographer take pictures at weddings is because THEY never-ever see the "official" pictures ...

... And, some-or-many people simply want at least one "snapshot" memory of the occasion.


Go to
Aug 28, 2018 11:54:34   #
russraman wrote:
I watched the online Nikon Z6/7 Hands-on Panel Discussion (twice) as well as watched or read user reviews on numerous web sites, but I still don’t understand why I should want or need this new mirrorless camera. I currently own a Nikon D810 and two Nikon Df’s along with a variety of AI-S, D, G and E lenses. What are the compelling reasons why I should add this camera to my current Nikon product collection or replace one of my existing cameras? And if for some reason I need a mirrorless camera, wouldn’t I be better off buying a Fujifilm XT2 with a Nikon F mount converter?
I watched the online Nikon Z6/7 Hands-on Panel Dis... (show quote)

The advantage of a 35mm SLR over a 35mm rangefinder camera is obvious if you are using a non-50mm lens BECAUSE of how you easily you can focus-and-frame the image with a telephoto or wideangle lens when using an SLR vs. using a similar focal length lens with rangefinder camera body ...

THAT advantage does not exist to the same extent with a DSLR over a mirrorless digital camera which has either an integrated-or-auxiliary EVF (electronic viewfinder) which will allow the individual to frame the image as s/he hopes to as easily as with a DSLR ...

... Mirrorless cameras have "image peeking" which is very useful when manual focusing is being implemented ...

... The EVF will reveal what the sensor sees in low light vs. a DSLR's darkened optical viewfinder.

If every picture you take is in auto-this-and-that mode, then there will probably be no reason for you to consider either a Nikon Z or any other mirrorless camera body.



Go to
Aug 10, 2018 12:06:13   #
bob100 wrote:
I dropped my D4S camera with a 24-70 mm lens on it with an NC filter. Even though it was in a case, it shattered the filter. The lens appears to be fine. The frame of the filter is frozen on the lens and I cannot budge it. I have tried rubber bands and a rubber pad to remove tops of cans all to no avail. I tried lightly tapping the ND filter. It remains frozen. Any suggestions would be appreciated. I am considering sending the lens to Nikon to see if they can help. Thank you.

Removing the damaged filter is often a leverage issue ...

I do NOT know if the following is included in jerryc41's linked suggestions:

IF the filter's frame is "okay" THEN if you have four-to-six additional filters of the same thread size, then screw them into the seized filter ... wrap the good-and-bad filters with either some clear-or-tan packing tape or cloth "duct" tape ... unscrew the BLOCK of combined filters ... remove the tape ... separate the good filters from the bad ...

Done!?!


Good luck with whatever method you choose.



Go to
Jul 28, 2018 09:21:13   #
NJose wrote:
This week in a B&H email there was an article/ad about Nikon's new mirrolress DSLR coming soon (see link below). There are rumors about Canon also coming out with their own as well. That's great that they are finally getting into the game. I would expect that these two giant's will knock the socks of Sony with all of years of experience.

But, what was real interesting to me was the confirmation that the Nikon mirrorless will feature a brand-new mount (no official word from Canon yet), one that Nikon claims opens the door for groundbreaking optical opportunities. Now, bringing it home, that puts me in a bind, because I was looking to purchase the Canon 100-400 IS II L lens this year and a new camera in 2019 or early 2020. There is talk about an adapter, but who know how that will work out. My budget is limited and I hate to spend money into a dying line.

Your thoughts on continuing to invest in the current line of DSLR?

https://www.bhphotovideo.com/explora/photography/news/nikons-exciting-entry-into-full-frame-mirrorless?utm_medium=Email%201686209&utm_campaign=Newsletter&utm_source=Newsletter%20180725&utm_content=Retail&utm_term=nikons-exciting-entry-into-full-frame-mirrorless&encEmail=964B8F39F761D7DFF6FF726CA3679A786B3059AF55EC711E95DC83FAE9BD5BF9
This week in a B&H email there was an article/... (show quote)

THIS may-or-may-not be obvious (or, it could be suggested by some to be wrong!?!), but curved sensor would theoretically be better which would require slightly less optical correction OR (in other words) allow for optical designs whose "edges" are almost as sharp as the central portion of the created image ...

The NET RESULT (in theory) is potentially smaller lenses with comparable-or-better image quality from-edge-to-edge.

I reckon that the new Nikon may have a slightly curved sensor & the new lenses are designed to take advantage of it.

... Sigma et al. will need to re-formulate their lens designs which may temporarily diminish their market share; so, from a bean counter point of view, THAT is why Nikon and/or Canon (and, anyone else) MIGHT design a camera body with a curved sensor.

AFAIK, the price on the mirrorless Nikon body has been suggested to be in the $4000 range ...

Lens prices will be comparably expensive if you don't want to use an F-or-whatever-to-Z lens mount adapter.

So, the SIZE & WEIGHT of your current and future camera bodies & lenses PLUS your wallet should possibly be the factors which influence your future camera purchases ...

You probably won't save money in the near future by waiting for Nikon's FF mirrorless camera & lenses OR whatever Canon ends up offering in THAT arena; but, waiting for another six months or a year often doesn't hurt.

If you want a lighter OR less expensive configuration than you are currently using, then go with an m4/3 setup OR any other "crop sensor" camera system.




Go to
Jul 15, 2018 19:22:43   #
Bob Locher wrote:
I do regret that I apparently can not attach photos to these messages to show my hopelessly inadequate landscape pictures taken with a 135 mm lens on my A6000, for which 135 mm is the equivalent of about 200 mm. Even is they are not as tack sharp as I would like.

I *do* statistically analyze the scenic pictures I taken that I think are worthy of keeping. More than 15% of them are taken with the 135 mm lens.

I do fail to see why my discussing my quest for a better lens should then subject me to ridicule. I'd like to think I know what I am doing. If I don't - hard lines. It's my money I'm spending.

Most of the comments here have been constructive and those I do appreciate.

Cheers
I do regret that I apparently can not attach photo... (show quote)

First. I don't understand why, if you want to, you are unable to post pictures since they are already in a digital format ...

Second. You do NOT have to agree with my impression that your stated "quest for a better lens" rings hollow because it seems that you are continuing to insist that one of the poorer examples of a 135mm lens provides a valid benchmark for assessing vintage Prime lenses ...

If you don't want to compare the 135mm f2.8 Nikkor to your Sigma, then it would probably be beneficial if you investigated the 135mm Takumar lens which had been suggested earlier in this thread.

BTW. If you want superior take-no-chances Prime lenses then you can always pony up for almost any M-mount Leica lens which can be readily adapted to your Sony ...

.. There are post-War Canon Serenar lenses + Russian copies of pre-War Zeiss lenses which are available with the 39mm Leica Thread mount which can also be adapted to your Sony which may-or-may-not be acceptable to you.



Go to
Jul 14, 2018 14:58:57   #
Bob Locher wrote:
Time to add some comments in response.

For one, when I do lens testing, I use a tripod. I use the focus magnifier the Sony A6000 series has. I trigger the test exposure using an infra-red remote. I test the lens at multiple apertures. Since I am shooting across a valley from my house, I only shoot test exposures in the morning before there is any heat distortion.

I do own wide angle lenses down to 18 mm. And I sometimes use them. But most of my shots are taken with longer lenses. I suggest anyone who thinks scenic photography requires wide angle lenses is missing a lot of opportunity. I personally live in an area of hills and mountains, where there is plenty of opportunity for long lens shots.

One of the advantages of a very sharp lens is that you can find multiple pictures inside one exposure, crop them out and still have presentable images. And when possible go back and shoot them again with a longer lens...

As to affording the hobby, let me only say that money is not a primary issue. But I worked hard for my money and I expect value for it. I refuse to spend a lot of money for "features" I do not need or want.

What do I want in a lens of a given focal length? First, sharpness and contrast. Second - build quality. Third - light weight. Fourth - price. Note that a large aperture is not on my list. Lenses in the class of the 60 mm f/2.8 Sigma lens referenced earlier are my sweet spot - not the large aperture bombsights that seem to be what lens suppliers are rushing to market.

Cheers
Time to add some comments in response. br br For ... (show quote)

First, I'm glad you were using a tripod when you made your comparative test ...

However, let me say more emphatically that you may have used one of the poorer examples of a vintage Nikon lens as your benchmark for how sharp an image one can produce with a vintage Prime lens ...

Again, the 24mm f2.8 Zuiko OM is exceptionally sharp ... the plebeian 50mm f1.8 Zuiko is a surprisingly sharp optic which may-or-may-not be as good as your 60mm Sigma f2.8!?!

... Those two Zuiko lenses are just two among a multitude of vintage Prime lenses which will probably be as good as your 60mm Sigma as long as you are willing to focus the lens manually ...

... I do not know how sharp the 135mm Zuiko lens is.

BTW. As far as a "prime (lens) fetish" is concerned, while current Zoom lenses may-or-may-not be better than Zoom lenses made in the past, the label sounds like one created by someone who may have too much invested in his Zoom lenses.




Go to
Page: <<prev 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 ... 18 next>>
UglyHedgehog.com - Forum
Copyright 2011-2024 Ugly Hedgehog, Inc.