I already responded to this but I had an opportunity and went ahead and snapped an example for you. The answer is yes, absolutely. See the photo below.

So I grabbed some odd items, put them on the couch and took a snap with my Z7. The raw file is a perfect exposure. My definition of a perfect exposure is an exposure that fully utilizes the recording capacity of the sensor. With that exposure I have the best possible SNR and the best possible data to work with. Note the upper right corner inset. You see a raw histogram with exposure stats and EXIF data. To get a perfect exposure I place the diffuse highlight in the scene at the sensor clipping threshold and click. Note the exposure stats column in the yellow circle. The red channel is not at clipping, the blue channel is not at clipping and the green channel has just made it there with less than 1% clipped. I have the green channel just barely touching the sensor saturation threshold. You can't expose with that kind of precision using a DSLR and I'll never go back to one. I can do what I did here with any subject in any lighting condition every time. NOTE the EXIF data and the EC value used. I set the camera to expose +2.3 stops above the meter reading. Using a DSLR how would you have known to do that with precision and certainty knowing the raw file exposure was perfect when you clicked the shutter release?

With high speed sports or nature photography, when the subject is moving towards or away from you a mirrorless camera will focus continuously until the image is recorded. A DSLR stops focusing as soon as the mirror begins its trip, and before the image is recorded. Not a big deal in a static setting, but if you're behind the goal that fraction of a second between the time when the focusing stops and the image is captured is the difference between a sharp image and a slightly soft one. The keeper rate in these cases goes WAY up with mirrorless cameras.

I started this thread to help anyone who might want to try Manual Mode but was hesitant to start. You have muddied the waters with all your gobbledygook and have detoured the thread from its intended purpose. You called my post BS, but in my opinion everything you have posted in this thread is nothing more than pure BS. You have done a disservice to everyone who wants to learn or try something new. You have been combative and disrespectful in you posts. I think your only interest in this thread is to demonstrate that you know something, not to help anyone.

From the article: "The main reason to shoot in manual mode is that it gives you a lot of control. Far more than the automatic modes on your camera (like aperture, priority, or shutter speed priority or automatic mode)... If you come to grips with manual mode, you will probably shoot in no other mode and, in terms of technical knowledge, be in the elite few photographers who really know the mechanics of their craft."

That's BS.

And after that shovel full of BS comes shovels full of misinformation: "ISO refers to the light sensitivity of the camera sensor. The higher, the ISO, the more sensitive it is to light and hence the brighter your images. Higher ISO, however, also causes digital noise in your images..."