I have been using the Nikon 28mm 1.8 for several years and find the photos need to be changed a majority of the time.
I shoot mainly Friends, Family and local events.
It is easy to say: make sure that the camera is perfectly straight and not tilting, movement and surprise activity always come into play and/or concentrating on the main subject and missing background lines etc.

In LR I am constantly using the Transform (aka Lens Correction) which for the most part works, there are occasions where either too much gets cropped or the picture looks unnatural.

So here is my question:
Is there less of this occurring if I use a 35mm instead of the 28mm?
IOW's is the distortion more in line with the human visual with a 35mm or is it that even with the 35mm not being perfectly straight or angled would still produce the same required adjustment in LR or less?
I have a D750 and I leave the grid lines on, but I am constantly forgetting about it, too old I guess, LOL

I currently have the 50mm 1.8 which I find it is a little too tight, I have the 24-120, the reality with the zoom that I generally either go full wide or zoom in between 70-120, plus I am not a big fan of zooms and doing testing is not real time.

I am looking at either the Nikon 35 1.8 or the Sigma ART 35 1.4.
My local Camera guy (owner, been there for 30 years) loves the ART series and would swap it back for the Nikon, so that is not an issue.

I hope I am making sense, I am 74, so no making fun of seniors either,
Perhaps I am having thoughts of Christmas spending and just need an excuse to buy another lens.
LLOL

Greg

Ok, good to know that old backups are stored, now the $64 question:
Where are they, I have a MAC

I started with LR last year after Apple Aperture decided to end any updates and support.

I found that "Folders" in LR was similar in use to "Projects" in Aperture and seemed easy to use and control.

I am retired and after a year and a half I have less then 3000 images that I keep in LightRoom, quality and/or favorites.
I transfer all the images that I want to retain and not keep in LR to 2 HD backups along with the 3000 I leave in LR
I also transferred the 3000 I keep in LR to Apple Photos.

I find it very easy to send e-mails, transfer images to a desktop for FB, burn a CD using folders.
I find deleting images in folders easy to do, I would guess that Collections would be the same process.

Can someone explain to me the reason(s) that I should use Collections based on the way I use LR rather then Folders ?
Am I missing better resolution transfer or some easier storage ability.

Thanks, hope i made myself clear,

(1)
Thanks for letting me know that in Live View, the settings are different, as I said I rarely use it and did not bother to read the manual, Bad !
I reset it to AF-F and face detection.
(2)
What about the focus points, I see there is only the square box ?
(3)
It does have the same metering as the viewfinder
(4)
Please educate me :
CDAF, PDAF,

Thanks again,
Greg

I agree about camera shake, that is why I generally have the speed at 200, my primes are 28, 50 and 85, all 1.8mm.
I am thinking that the delay in the mirror release may cause a movement of the camera.

As I siad I rarely use it, but I will do some trail and error shots.

Thanks,

Greg

I have a D750 and shoot 90% manual with Back Button Focus.
I vary my focus settings from 1 to 51 to Group depending on the situation or importance of the shot, at my age I keep the speed at 160-200, with or without a flash.
I have always kept the Focus Lock in the lock position.

While I like the idea of the tilt screen, it requires shooting in Live View.
For some reason my shots often appear blurry or focused wrong.

Either I am moving the camera too soon after I press the shutter button (delayed shutter) or I am not understanding the how to focus in Live View.

Any suggestions, website, you tube or answers would help.


Thanks,

I am 74 years old, the camera gets heavier every year for some strange reason, LLOL
I use mostly primes, I have 2 zooms with VR.

Greg

No, I keep it within the range usually around 160-200.

Greg

I have for the most part been a Manual settings person and/or Aperture.
When I do sports I use Shutter Speed.

I use my Flash (Nikon 910) for fill in a good percentage of the times outdoors for people.

I forgot and had the setting on Shutter (old Age, LOL) and I noticed the the aperture was wide open at 1.8 for the shots with the Flash set at TTL FP.

I did an intentional second series of shots and the 1.8 still registered with different Flash and camera settings
Obviously it brings into question depth of Field if that is the case.

Is that natural action of using a Flash in Shutter mode or do I need to change a setting in the flash or camera that I missed or is it a false read?

Not the end of the world if I do not get a response.
I may have done this countless times in the past, I just did not notice the Aperture listing in the info.
Thanks,

Greg

Over the past years this subject has come up and I say how I use it and am always leery of push back, to this sites credit we have a higher standard so here goes.

I shoot in RAW, I keep it set to 5000 and adjust in PP, I have LR and maybe because I am retired and have extra time, I enjoy fooling with PP.
Sometimes I use the eye dropper if there is a good area or item in white to check myself or if the image looks off. I also like moving the adjustment bar for different looks, again I am retired.
One of my reasons is that my personal taste leans towards a very slight blue rather then a yellow tint.

Also I simple do not use jPeg, my wife's point and shoot is in RAW and I have an iPhone app that shoots in Raw.
Just my 1 cents on a personal level not a professional one. LLOL

Thanks, I copied your posts and will keep them as a reference, sites like this are a great way to learn, I had a darkroom back in the 70's and 80's and it was learn by mistakes and a lot of money on chemicals and paper.
But I have to admit, there is something about film images compared to digital, the colors seem to jump out of the print.
Hopefully I will not get flamed by the younger generation. LLOL

Thanks again,

Greg

Are there any major differences when using a MAC, I find using MAC a lot easier for editing, could just be me, LLOL

Can you post how to send and work with the RAW File ?
My apologies in advance if my question is too soon, I am unsure of the Time Zone difference

Thanks,

Greg

I believe I just hit the File > save and the PS adjusted image returns next to the LR
As I stated the plug in does not.