Most everything people are saying is true. I find that many people accidently hit the lock tab when moving the card from one place to another. Possible the card was unlocked in the camera and is now locked. Won't hurt to check the tab and if locked unlock it and see if the pix are actualy there.
have you unlocked the card to see if the pix are actually there?
Though it may not do exactly what you are looking for, in PSE (I'm using 11 but used earlier versions as well) search "photo merge" in the help section. That is where you will find the "one click" versions for stitching photos.
All the advice given is good. Since I try to go too quickly many times, my expereice, regardless where you are in PSE11, when all selections are greyed out, I have left some type of editing or selection box open, such as putting in a percentage for sharpening an image or whatever. It always turns out to be something silly I simply need to close. Called a human error from "ready, shoot, aim".
Agree with that. My original answer was really focused more on "check your owner's manual". More amazed at the number of people who never open it.
Gas? Car? What are those. I keep my bike tires at 45 PSI. ;-)
Actually I am always amazed at the people who buy a card twice as fast as their camera can write hoping it will perform better.
Save a few bucks. Check your owner's manual on the max write speed of your camera and buy the appropriate card. Does no good and wastes your money to buy a card that is faster than your camera can use.
Sony DSC H90. Called a high zoom point and shoot. 16X optical. You can push digital up to 115X depending on picture resolution - 115X for VGA. Best part with the moving grand kids is the only point and shoot I could find that allowed continual burst until you wanted to stop. Most allow 20 frames or less. After you use the burst with the grand kids you won't stop. Gives amazing shots.
I chose the Sony DSC-H90 over the HX20V. The 20V limits burst photos to 10 pix. The H90 doesn't. For my use, I really wanted unlimited burst which is hard to find in a High Zoom Point and Shoot. The H90 is only 16X optical zoom vs 20X with the 20V. Other than that, I find the H90 a great camera for my use. Check it out if you are thinking the 20V
I feel it depends on your final application. I shoot mainly for a digital photoframe, not print, so my requirements aren't quite as stringent. I also take a ton of sports photos - MLB, NFL and NHL. Because of that I want a burst mode that doesn't stop after "X" frames. I also like to carry my camera in my pocket for the same reason as you. That means I want a "quick start" (power on - take a pix) camera. Look at the Sony point and shoot high zoom (16X optical) models. They fit the bill. I know the purist will cringe, but at lower resolutions the digital zoom will get you in very tight 75-100X. I emphasize, if your application will tolerate that, a good choice. I love mine.
I use Stellar Phoenix Photo Recovery
http://www.stellarinfo.com/digital-media-recovery.htm , will recover all lost pix, EVEN if you have reformatted the card / disk. Makes one stop and think about if things are ever really deleted / erased.
Has a free to try option which is limited. I found it well worth the price.