I like first one. That's what I always try to get. Congratulations. Very good shot.
" I also discovered yesterday that the (single) focus is frozen in the center. "
Sounds like the Lock knob is on L. That will lock the focus point.
Get the D500. A much better camera!
There are three things you can do. First, stop down the lens to f/11 or f/16. The smaller the lens opening, the more depth of field you will have.
Secondly, get closer to your subject in relation to the background. In other words, the closer you are to the subject and the farther away the subject is from the background, the more blurry the background will be.
The third thing that affects depth of field is the len's focal length. The shorter the focal length, the GREATER the depth of field. In other words, the more in focus the background would be. You want a larger depth of field, so using an 50mm lens would be better for you than say an 85mm or longer focal length.
You did not say what your subject is or what the background is, but the information I gave is the basics. Make sense? If not PM me.
Kozan
amfoto1 wrote:
She might have been fine if she'd only read the manual, bought a book or two about the camera and read those, and/or viewed some of the videos online about the Canon focus system.
BTW, it's super easy to "bump buttons" and change the focus point that way. On the models with a "joystick" (5D-series, 7D-series) there's the option of setting the joystick to directly access AF point selection (no need to press another button first.... which is faster but more prone to accidentally changing AF point selection) AND it's possible to set the joystick so that "clicking" it like a mouse button causes the AF point to immediately return to the center point.
I've haven't used 60D, 6D etc. with their slightly different AF control often enough to know what's possible with them. But I almost NEVER use my cameras set to All Points/Auto Selection (the way you set up hers). That leaves it completely up to the camera to decide where to focus and more often than not it chooses something other than what I want.
She might have been fine if she'd only read the ma... (
show quote)
In my opinion, it's just dumb not to read the manual for any camera no matter how simple.
vista wrote:
I currently use a Nikon D7200 and am looking for a macro lense recommendation. Does anyone have opinions on the Tokina 100mm f/2.8 AT-X AF pro D Macro? Appreciate any input. Thank you
That is a fantastic lens! I bought one directly from Tokina. It is great as a MACRO, and can be used for portraits, also. Sharp as a tack, too.
Chefneil wrote:
I am thinking about getting a Tamron 70-200 f2.8. There are 3 versions out there, The first, does not have Vibration Control (VC), bit is said to have great IQ. The second version does have VC and also has Great IQand the 3rd one ia out of my price range. Does any one out there have actual hands on experience with either of the 2 lenses? If so what do you think?
Not sure what your third lens is but I have the Tamron SP 70-200mm F/2.8 Di VC USD G2. I usually shoot baseball and football at f/2.8. The AF is fast and right on at any zoom setting. I check focus often by enlarging the view to 100%. It is tack sharp. I could not be more happy with this lens.
I know its more money but the G2 is well worth it.
rmorrison1116 wrote:
They're based in Great Britain I believe, also not sure but MPB may be the initials of the founder.
They are a part of Robert's Camera Company in Indianapolis, IN, USA.
dougnodine wrote:
Just upgraded from Nikon D 70 to a D 500 and I am enjoying the upgrade. I read a quick start guide about shooting with a manual setting with an auto ISO. This seems to fit my shooting preference but I have one question, is there anyway to see what ISO is being selected in the the viewfinder? I know I can see it on the camera display by pushing the “info” button but it would be faster if I could see it in the viewfinder. Thanks for the help.
It is shown right in the viewfinder next to ISO (a litle AUTO appears next to the ISO the camera selects).
I believe the OP is just senile and forgot he asked before.
When is the last time you defragged your computer?
If I had only had 1 tip to give it would be to learn the Exposure Triangle. This is most important in getting away from AUTO mode.
Barbershots wrote:
Opportunity has presented itself for a coworker needing senior photos for her daughter. She likes the sports work I do.
Gear and knowledge I have, just not sure of pricing, could lead to lot's of referrals,as her daughter is very popular.
Thanks in advance
I would charge about $175 for a basic package, such as two 8x10s and 16 wallets. That will cover your session fee and basic package. But offer more packages such as an 11x14, 3 8x10s and 24 wallets. You might add an album for more $$$. They almost always buy more.
The secret to selling involves having many choices. Have a flyer made up with different packages.
What if you put the horizon toward the top instead of the bottom.? To me that would be a more forced perspective.
Image #1 looks the best to me.
Also, I almost always use a flash outdoors as well as indoors. Some will disagree with me, but that little pop of flash, even at -3EV will make the image look better. Unless you are doing a landscape. But for portraits, it's a must. Trust me on this one.