sorry

The rail fence is my wall (see bear picture). I have seen no "walls" in our area. There is foliage & cover between most of the backyards allowing the animals to roam through. I have seen what appears to be the deer stopping and looking both ways before crossing the streets -- of course these are the survivors.

From the sliding glass door off my kitchen:
7 to 10 ft to the Fawn;
7 to 10 feet & up approximately 25 feet the Bobcat;
approx 30 feet to the bear.

just a brown bear. I do not think there are any grizzlies in this area -- except for the zoo.

I am just waiting for the next passer-by. Traffic has increased since the fire.

The following works on a Macbook Pro and you can view Live on a D5100.

http://www.sofortbildapp.com

It works for me.

dave

I am in the process of moving from a PC to MacBook Pro (w/ Retina display). Almost completed.

The PC had 2 good , but not high end, displays. I have been a PC user for may years. The PC I was due for replacement.

My trade-off analysis lead me to the following: instead of up-grading the display sub-system on a PC platform and a few other things in the desk-top, go the Mac route with retina display.

Note: I am told the MacBook cannot be upgraded in the future, so make sure you get everything you will need for the lifetime of the Mac.

I have also submitted and have received the results of my first ~2' X 6' photo to Reed Printing in Denver. I am very pleased with the results.

During the pre-submission processing, I had the opportunity to evaluate the differences between the PC and Mac and ended up submitting the MacBook Pro results. I attribute this to the differences in the quality of the display subsystems.

I am not saying you cannot get the same results using a PC, you just need a PC display subsystem as good or better than the Retina subsystem.

In my opinion --

If you do things right, as they should be done, on both the PC and Mac (w/ Retina display) platforms, the Mac system seems to out perform the PC system.

But, if you are only going to observe your efforts on a media that is of lower quality, then I believe you will not enjoy the results of a high quality product.

If on the other hand you may want to observe your effort in a high quality media , then I believe you need to have a high quality process and high quality equipment.

The quality of the final product probably will not be better than the highest quality of the lowest quality item in the process. Nothing personal, but this may the operator.

It seems everyone needs to establish their criteria for the quality they want in their output then identify the HW, SW, and training to help them meet their goals.

Sorry for being long winded.

Enjoy your hunt.

Being from CO I do not use tide tables to often -- but when I do I have found an app for my iPhone that provides the information I need, either while traveling or for planning purposes. My Garmin GPS also provide for tide, moon & sun rise and set information for the unit's location.

I suspect there is other free tidal apps available for any computer platform.

For sunrise and moon rise and set, I use The Photographer Ephemeris program for determining anticipated lighting and positioning planning purposes. I have not used this program to it fullest capability yet.




These work for me.

After trying several different methods of keeping track of charged/uncharged state of the batteries for my Nikon, flash, and petrel headlamp, i.e. paper slips, color coding, etc.; they all had some drawback or another as far as I am concerned.

I generally travel with 3-4 Nikon batteries along with some AAs & AAAs batteries for my flash and petzel head lamp. The Nikon batteries come with a cap to protect the terminal and to hinder accidental discharge. I have purchased, from a battery store, plastic containers for the AA & AAA batteries.

Here in the SW and in the mountains, the paper slips tended to blow away, the color coding was hard to determine in poor light, separate color coded containers usually meant more weight or bulk, etc.

My current solution is to use the thick rubber bands that come on some vegetables in the super market or that can be purchased at an office supply. I use the rubber bands around both the individual Nikon battery & cap and the AA & AAA battery cases.

IF the batteries are charged THEN I wrap the rubber band around the Nikon battery and cap or the battery case one time just to hold the cap on or the case shut.

IF the batteries need to be recharged THEN I wrap the rubber band around the Nikon battery and cap or the battery case twice twisting the rubber band to form a "cross or X". This pattern has a rubber band on all four sides of the batter or container.

I can now reach into the bag and determine those batteries that are charged or uncharged just by feeling the rubber band configuration.

I have learned carry a couple of additional rubber bands for those times one breaks while in the field.

This has worked for me for the last couple of years and is provided for your consideration.

It could be any politician regardless of the party, in that the politicians do not try to understand the system and the cause and effect on the system -- unless it is in their own self interest; i.e., the subsystem that gets them reelected or increases their benefit package(s) and which "we" let them get by with.

It could be any politician regardless of the party, in that the politicians do not try to understand the system and the cause and effect on the system -- unless it is in their own self interest; i.e., the subsystem that gets them reelected or increases their benefit package(s) and which "we" let them get by with.

Thanks for the personal experience review. I have also been considering the WalBal.

I use a Lowe Pro Topload Zoom AW, It is a big chest pack that counter balances a HAWG Camel back. I modified the carrying strap system by using the OP/TECH USA shoulder strap. This strap is similar to a shoulder holster / binocular strap system in that both shoulder and not the neck support the camera bag. I also got a strap to go around my body so the camera back would not swing away form my body. All straps have have Accoulock type snaps that allow me to remove the camera bag from me without removing the shoulder holster type straps. This comes in handy when driving a car from on site to another and having to add and remove the camers bag for driving comfort. They have an elastic one which did not meet my needs so I got the solid strap one which works better.

This allows me to combine or use separately the camera bag and camel back. I find it is best to put the camera bag on first and then the camel back when using them together.

I am 6'1" 225lbs and this may not work for smaller framed individuals.

In the LowePro I carry a Nikon D5100 with an AF-S 18--200 lens. I normally carry the lens shade inverted in the bottom og the carrier. I typically have 2 to 4 extra batteries 2-3 extra SD cards, a remote shutter release cable, Corkin grad neutral density filters & adapter, plus an instruction crib sheet. I hook my Garmin GPS onto the LowePro.

In the camel back I carry food, water,jacket/poncho (depending on anticipated weather conditions),first aid kit, extra batteries for the GPS, maps, Storm Jacket camera cover (which is shifted to the LowePro in Bad weather).

It works for me -- good luck on your search.

2 more cents.
How does this different from life??
There will always exist the good, the bad & the ugly -- which changes depending upon personal standards & criteria. I don't believe you have to accept the standards of others, but you should accept the diversity for what it is and live with it.
Besides, I believe this site provides more than enough good photography associated information to counter a few perceived affronts to any one set of standards. Pick and choose. Enjoy life.

I own a couple of cameras that have a swing-out display screens, e.g., a Nikon D5100 and a Canon SX10IS.
The displays approx. sizes are: 2.75" X 2" (with a 3.5" diagonal) & 2" X 1.5" (with a 2.5 " diagonal), respectively, and both swing around so the display can either face in or out.
I am looking for a thin, adhesive (that can be peeled off – when desired) type material. The material will NOT distort the color spectrum or distort a possible polarize filtered lens image on the display. The material is also protecting the display for scratches and eliminating display glare.
I would like to know what product you use that meets these requirements.

Thanks all. I have resolved my issue and I appreciate all the fine response. Have a good day.