If you have the money buy the one that has 72mm on it. - Dave
I use all kinds of lenses on my Nikons but my everyday work lenses are made by Nikon. That being said way do you want a 28 - 70 lens for portrat lens? Too short. Two of my go to lenses for portarts are Spiritones from the 1970s. A 135mm preset f/2.8 with great broca. and a 100 mm portagon with fixed f/4 lens. It has a single element so its sharp in the middle and fuzzy on the edges. They are T-mount lenses and will work on Nikons and many other camers with a T adaptor. They were under $20 and can be had for about that on e-bay. - Dave
Sorry folks but I like he first one best. I bet it is close to the real colors. To me the 2nd one makes her look like she has a sunburn or a fever. I love the B&W. Perhaps just a little more contrast wouls help it. Does everthing have to pop? To my taste very few pictures do. Some of the few are super. - Dave
Hope you will all will humor an old man. The bigger # does not coraspond with a smaller apature it just looks like it.F-stop is the measurement of this opening, expressed as the focal length of the lens divided by the diameter of the aperture. This makes it a fraction. So f16 is really f1/16 which is a smaller stop than f/8 which is f1/8. Ansil Adams and many other photographers noted the stop as F/8. Lens makers standardized the markings for the apature to 1.4, 2, 2.8, 4, etc to f/16 or even down to f/128 on large veiw camera lenses. These stops made it easy to double the exposure time if you stopped down a stop or cut it in half if you opened a stop. Since the new cameras set things for you they use what seems to be odd numbers like 9 or 13. Now so that everyone is in focus in the picture. Use a small f stop such as f/11 and focus on the person in the middle if your camera wont do it focus manualy. Dave
Go to the Ken Rockwell site. He has a download that he asks $5 for. You can look at it for free. When i got my D90 I bought three books and his down load was more help than any of them. He goes through the settings and tells how he sets the camera up. I dont agree with all he does but it"s a good start. - Dave
95% of your shots will be at the settings your camera will use. Now saying that you may want to go to aperature or shutter speed mode for some a certain look. I use aperature mode and have my lens wide open most of the time. I like people pictures and the background out of focus so this is what I use. On the other hadn if you want depth of field you would use a small aperature. If your doing sports you will want to use the sutter speed setting and use a fast sutter speed. Alway check your shots on the camera and adjust if need be. The only time I use full manual is when I use one of my old T mount lens like the Spiratone 400. That is the only way I can get these lenses to work on my camera. (I have a lens baby that will only work on Manual too) Then I use my camera for an exposure meter. I put on a lens and set the Apature made to the f stop I want to use and then see what speed it will use and then I put on my manual lens and use those settings. I hope this will help. - Dave
The smaller the F stop the more depth of field your get. Look on an old film slr prime lens and there is a scale that shows how big an area is in focus for each f stop. What I would do is set my lens on apature and use f16 or smaller (f stops are like fractions the bigger the number the smaller the opening) Then I would focus on person or object in the middle of the group manual if need be. Take the picture and all should be in focus. - Dave
Thanks for the problem it was fun to solve. First I formated a card in my D90 and then took one picture. Then I sent it to my computer. Opened the DCM file then opened the D90(or what ever your camera file is). Then I just drug the picture files I wanted to go back into the camera to the D90 file. Then I closed the D90 file and had the DCM file. I sent the DCM file to my card then put the card in my camera and the pictures were back in the camera. Hope this works for you. Dave
One way to put color in B&W is do the background layer in color do a copy layer on top of it that you have changed the color picture into B&W or Sipia or any other color you want and then erase the parts you want in color and the color layer will show where you have erased. I use elements 8 Dave
This is how I would do it. I would open the lens as wide as it would go. Set ISO to 1600. This way I would have a fast shutter speed and the background would out of focus. Then I wuold focus on the barrell and the wait action to get to the focus spot and hit the shutter. I would also try all the hints above and then see what worked best for me. Dave
optical I know of no dslrs with any other
Look at the Ken Rockwell site. He points out that your raw file are going to end up a Jpeg file in the end. If you do your work setting your camera to get the results you want in Jpeg you will not have to shoot raw. When I started in photography I did B&W using either 4"X 5" or 2 1/4" negatives. If I didn't get things right I could fix it in the darkroom. Then came 35mm and color and I had to send the negatives to the lab. So I learned to do it right in the camera. Same goes with RAW and Jpeg. If you want to fix your shots later shoot in Raw or do the work in your camera before you shoot and shoot Jpeg. - Dave
I would move to the right so that the tree branch and ground "frame" the manson. You also may have to get down on the ground to get more of the house into the "frame". You may want to open your apature wide so that only the building or the house is in sharp focus or you may want to stop down so that everything is sharp. - Dave