When I rent a Nikon D800E, I record the raw files on one card and jpg files on another as backup. It's good "insurance." As good as in-camera processing can be, it is not perfect for every situation, so I prefer to work with the raw files as my primary source of material. I enjoy tweaking and perfecting the raw files to achieve a record of what my memory says and perhaps improve upon it. It's nice to have the camera-processed jpg files just in case I screw up.

This image of Yosemite Valley was made at 4:00 AM this past December. The jpg file was barely passable no matter how I adjusted brightness and contrast. It was shot at ISO 3200 for 30 seconds at f/2.8 with a 15mm Zeiss f/2.8 lens. Working with the raw file I was able to get the stars to shine crisply and clearly while getting a clean night image of the valley. I'm glad I had the jpg for reference, but I could only achieve the final result by working with the raw file.

You seem to be interested in ultra-wide angle lenses with a Nikon mount, and you like VR (which is not as important or useful with wide angle lenses as with telephoto.) I suggest you go to lensrentals.com and try out a few before purchasing. The best ultra-wide for Nikon with a fixed focal length does not have either autofocus or vr. It is the Zeiss 15mm f/2.8. For a zoom, the Tokina ultra-wide is also excellent.

Classic Camera repair will do a good job on ANY camera. I've had him do repairs on on a 75-year-old Zeiss folding camera as well as some rare cameras made later. He is fair, honest, and keeps you informed. Write him at classiccamera@comcast.net.

One way is to use Photoshop or Photoshop Essentials to create a transparent image and then insert it in the desired location. I scanned my signature, added the copyright symbol and my web page address, and saved it as a transparent png file. Then I use the PS selection to select an area of the image, and then insert the png image into the selection. Once you have the png file created, it is very simple to "sign" your image. It looks very professional as well. If the area where you want to insert the image is very dark, you can create a negative of the png file, save it separately as a png, and insert that image into the dark area.

On-camera flash is seldom effective beyond 10-12 feet (3-3.5 meters). While there are a few occasions when I use flash, I prefer to use a camera that has good low-light performance. I crank up the ISO as much as necessary, and I shoot with available light. When I do use flash I bounce it off the ceiling. Beyond simple snapshots, serious photographers often get amazing shots exploring available light.

I just got back from Yosemite, where I used a D800 that I rented along with a Zeiss 15mm f/2.8 and a Nikon 28-300VR. I took a number of 30-second exposures using the shutter delay (not self-timer), and with the 2-sec delay all came out sharp. I too wish the screen was articulated, but I loved using the built-in artificial horizon.

Other than a circular polarizer (which can be more than $50 if large), I would choose my beanbag pod. Several companies make them. Mine is small, with a tripod-threaded stud on top and a Velcro strap on the bottom. It is handy where a tripod cannot be set up. After screwing the threads into the tripod socket on the bottom of my camera, I can place it on a flat surface, and with a cable release or self-timer it is rock-solid. If there is a fence rail, branch, or pipe available, the Velcro strap can cinch it up nicely.

These are commandments of decorum and civility, but logic is another subject. Anyone who has had a course in logic will tell you the same. There are two foundational rules of all human logic:
1. Nothing can both "be" and "not be" simultaneously. As some are fond of saying, "You can't have it both ways."
2. All conclusions are based upon both facts and assumptions. For instance, if two people know the same facts but come to differing conclusions, it is because they make differing assumptions. Logic is weak when a conclusion is based upon more unverified assumptions than facts.
These are actual rules of logic, not rules of approach or rules of civility.

Yes, but (1) Sony makes (and designed) the sensors for the Nikon D800 and the Nikon D800E, and (2) marketing and sales do not necessarily reflect the quality of a product.

May I suggest you explore this page at Amazon --
http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=sr_st?keywords=beginner+digital+camera&qid=1386504854&rh=n%3A172282%2Cn%3A502394%2Cn%3A281052%2Cn%3A330405011%2Ck%3Abeginner+digital+camera%2Cp_72%3A1248879011&sort=price


:P :lol: :lol: :lol: :P

There are a few p/s cameras that "can" produce professional quality results if the photographer has some adequate skills. At the high end is the Sony R1, and there are two or three others that are almost comparable. There continue to be classic film cameras that, with proper exposure, good focus, and good composition, can produce images that professionals would consider worthy of praise. In the digital world, given a good lens and sensor, it is a matter of skill and technique more than money. This image was made on Ektacolor film two years ago with a camera for which I paid $150.

If you're going to go for a prime, the finest primes are made by Carl Zeiss. The wide angle prime by which other lenses are measured and compared is the Zeiss 21mm f/2.8. For an ultrawide, nothing can match the 15mm f/2.8. It has no measurable chromatic aberrations at any stop. The vignetting is only about 1.5 stops at f/2.8, and it is gone by f/8. It is so well-corrected that distortion is minimal. It is a truly amazing lens, but is quite expensive. Go to Ken Rockwell's page to see wide angle lenses compared.