Are you using the right paper path, there's one top center and another towards the back. Check in your printer dialogue to see which one it's trying to use. Only one can be open while printing,

If you save the resized picture as a .jpg, open it in ps, or pse, and it will start printing much faster. Make sure to save it at the largest file size. You can resize in lightroom, ps, or pse very easily. In ps and pse click edit and choose resize from the dropdown, if memory serves this older mind. When resizing unclick resample. Leave the height and width so they scale when you resize, enter the length of the longest leg of the pic, the other automatically scale. You will be able to see the new true 'DPI' in the resolution window. Keep the printer set on best. 300 dpi is a great target, I find that anything over 180 dpi prints well on that printer.

I have owned and run frame shops for over 40 years, the old timers, back in the 80's always said that the drop bottom originated to compensate for the frame allowance.
The frame should have an added allowance of approx 1/8" , this allows you to fit your mat package and glass to easily fit in the frame, and allows for expansion from heat, cold, and moisture.
When you put your framed picture on the wall, the inside package slides down and rests on the bottom rail, covering up a bit of the bottom of the mat. A small drop bottom compensates for this.
It makes sense.
Nowadays, the drop bottom mat is also used for visually weighting the framed picture.
We often add a 1/2" drop bottom to a 3 inch mat, especially when French Matting, or when a picture is hung partially above eye level.
The drop bottom can be larger or smaller to please.

Inkjet paper has an inkjet receiver coating on it

I've been using Kase magnetic filters on my Sony rx10m4 with great results.

I recently found Kase magnetic filters for the RX100m7 on the Kase China site, they offer them in a kit with an adapter, CPL, UV, ND 64, and ND1000, a case, and a lens cap.
Here is a link to the site.

https://www.kasecn.com/en/show.aspx?ID=1309

They have the same specs as their other magnetic filters.

The problem is the only place I found them was on ebay from China, nobody sells them in the US. There are no reviews anywhere for this particular kit.

I took a chance and ordered the kit on ebay for $95, less than half of what BH sells the larger diameter filters for.

Has anyone tried these, or have any further info? It seems to be too good to be true, paypal has always refunded bogus goods purchases to me without too much of a headache,.

Segway came out with a small stand on scooter, it also works like a robot puppy dog and can follow you and carry a lot, on or off road - in the meantime I picked up an RX10M4 for those impossible all day walks, pick your battles and carry the right gear for your situation- and keep on shooting

The Canon pro 100 is on sale at BH for 349.00, I dont think anything compares in that price range, 13x19, really professional prints, and mine hasnt clogged in 3 years, even after sitting idle for a couple of months.

Be careful, if they dispute the purchase, paypal generally sides with the buyer.

A great alternative to a spray is UV Glass, and water white 99% UV glass, which is nearly invisible and does not reflect light. It is commonly referred to as `museum glass`.
Both TruVue and Art Glass manufacture it. They are expensive, they will also blow your customers minds. Art glass also makes a 70% UV water white which is cheaper and nearly invisible.

Resize the background image to the size you want it to match, do not click resample.
If the background image is larger, the dpi will increase when you reduce the size, as long as you dont resample.
Check the new size (dpi), now add the image you want to superimpose over the background and adjust it to fit.
Resize the resulting image to the size you want to print, again do not resample, check the size of the resulting file, and you can see the dpi.
You might be pleasantly surprised at the quality of a 150 dpi on a good printer can be.
Resampling to a higher dpi wont improve your print.

Best way to store lion batteries long term is at around 80% charge, and not to drain them dead every time,
I would stick with a reputable supplier, some of the no name batteries can be dangerous, or not be the correct voltage.
Don't use visibly damaged or swollen batteries if you like your equipment.

I find that saving my files to highest resolution jpg's before printing both speeds up the printing dramatically and reduces the need to calibrate the printer/monitor. I would try setting it to let the printer process the color. That being said, you can calibrate your monitor to your printer which is the gold standard.
If you have a copy of photoshop or elements both work great for printing with this printer.
Files with layers seem to slow things down, as does wireless.

The canon pro 100 can go long intervals between printing without clogging, really great for someone who doesnt print every day or even every month.
It handles color really well, and for the money it's the cheapest way into truly pro prints.
Stick with the OEM inks, the canon papers already are profiled, and really not expensive. 13 x19 sheets of pro platinum are under a $1.00, and there are usually deals on Amazon. Red River also has great papers that work with Canon paper profiles.
The prints are supposed to last a hundred years, I've been doing conservation framing for over 40 years,, and recommend UV glass for extreme long term protection. It will keep a newspaper from fading, which usually starts happening in a day of light exposure.

You've gotten a lot of recommendations for the Pro 100, I have been using one for three years, it just works.
In my case, I let the printer handle the processing and have never had to callibrate the color.
Never had a clog or paper jam, I use canon ink, and canon or red river paper, and a wireless connection. Saving large files to high quality jpg's will dramatically speed up things.
13 x 19 is a great size for a casual printer, I scan and restore old photos and print them with the pro 100, I consider the quality to be exceptional. I use it in a retail frame shop and have never had a complaint.
I would only get the 1000 or 2000 if you know you are going to print large, the larger cartridges will be expensive, although they are cheaper in actual use, $ per ml. The quality on the large models is amazing.
While the cost of ink and paper are cheaper by the ml. and roll, on the larger models, you could buy several pro 100's with ink, for the cost of a set of ink. I think the cartridges for the large printers run from around $90 to $300 each, depending on the size. I've never seen them on sale, other than in a bundle with a printer.
I think the cost of ink on the pro 100 is very reasonable for the quality of the prints, and its way cheaper than outsourcing.
Using this printer for day to day business printing is a waste of money, the eco 4550 or other eco tank models probably have the lowest cost per page, the tanks last forever. It is not meant for high quality photographs.
If I were in your shoes, I would buy the pro 100, get to know it and canon, then if you want buy one of the larger ones,then you will have a spare for very little. My reasoning is that you might find you dont need large, and the larger canons aren't great at sheet feeding, if you plan on printing on smaller paper, I would have one of these on hand for convenience sake.

if you format that card now, all will most likely be harder to recover, as others have said try recovery software. below is a short list of a few, also search google for sd recovery
Disk Drill. Pros: High success rate. Supports all file systems. ...
IObit Undelete. Pros: User-friendly. Quick scan. ...
Piriform Recuva. Pros: Text. Advanced options. ...
Recoverit Data Recovery. Pros: Deep Scan available. Clean design. ...
EaseUS Data Recovery Wizard. Pros: Simple interface. Good overall recovery results