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Posts for: Adirondack Hiker
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Feb 24, 2012 06:26:01   #
JayJay wrote:
Just had chat with Adobe and RAW plug in NOT available with PSE 9 . Must upgrade to PSE 10


This is my main complaint about Adobe, they force you into new software. May I suggest you try the trial version of Lightroom 3 to see if it is compatable. It is now on sale for about the cost of Elements 10, and will has a much more powerful RAW editor. Then you can save as a tiff to further polish in Elements 9.
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Feb 23, 2012 19:10:31   #
jackm1943 wrote:
Two minor comments:

One, I recommend manual focus because cameras use a different and less accurate auto focus method in Live View.

Two, I am using the 2 second option on my camera for HDR because I lost my remote shutter and haven't replaced it yet.


Live View, different method of focusing, YES, Slower, YES, less accurate, NO! Use it on any lens that does not have a distance scale to focus at the minimal required distance to get the maximum depth of field. It is a must have feature for landscape photography.
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Feb 23, 2012 19:03:55   #
bobmcculloch wrote:
Dacci wrote:
I have Photo Shop Elements 9. But the program will not open my photo if it was taken in RAW. What am I doing wrong?


Why not use the raw converter from the camera manufacturer, they designed the raw formulas, they should be the best at converting them, Bob.


The RAW editor that comes with the camera, does not even come close to what can be achieved with a program like Lightroom.
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Feb 23, 2012 13:49:40   #
larrydc46 wrote:
effrant wrote:
You don't mention what you have for glass now, going full frame might require new, expensive lenses. What isn't your D5100 doing?


The D5100 is fine just really notice when i am doing sports or even when i was doing the weddings a second camera would have been nice not to have to change lenses while working all the time and with sports i also video


I would look for a remanufactured 5100 or 5000 body. A D90 would also work nicely.
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Feb 23, 2012 13:27:58   #
You have to stay with the DX format, or scrape your glass. What do you hope to gain???
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Feb 23, 2012 11:14:04   #
I always use the exposure delay in my landscape work, Unlike the timer delay, any mirror shake is minimized.
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Feb 23, 2012 06:31:54   #
You have three options. First use a graduated neutral density filter. It will darken the sky by about 2 stops, while leaving the foreground intact. Second, is HDR. Shoot a series of 3-5 exposures and combine. Finally shoot in RAW and expose for the sky. At 12 bits, vs 8 bits for jpeg, you will be amazed at the amount of detail that can be recovered from the shadows using software like Lightroom.
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Feb 20, 2012 13:13:29   #
jaraborn wrote:
there are times when you go and google an item and the amount of information is overwhelming. Which site to choose can be intimidating for some people. Me I usually just wade through til I find one that works for me. As for answering questions that seem like beginners who are lazy well not all people are teachers of all levels. Some people can teach newbies with no problems and others work better with more experienced students. So pick one and work only with that group and ignore the rest. just a thought
there are times when you go and google an item and... (show quote)


There is a major difference between teaching a beginner, and spoon feeding someone who is too lazy to put any effort into it. That was the question at the start, but as usual, it evolved into something its own mother would not recognize.
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Feb 20, 2012 06:46:01   #
Roger Hicks wrote:
Danilo wrote:
. . . #2--A vast "general" audience that views every photo as a good photo. "Oh, Henry looks like a ghost in this photo with Vivian...that's funny, hahaha". . . . Is it good? Is it bad? The simple answer is Yes.


This is probably far more important than many realize. The way people perceive pictures is always changing. Most of us see very old portraits and wedding pictures as stuffy and unrevealing of the people's characters: too highly finished. It seems very likely that people who grew up with camera 'phones will perceive pictures differently from those of us who grew up with 'real' cameras.

Cheers,

R.
quote=Danilo . . . #2--A vast "general&quo... (show quote)


While how the subject matter is portrayed may change with time, proper lighting, composition and sharp focus never go out of style.
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Feb 20, 2012 06:05:56   #
jan457 wrote:
Ok folks, I'm kind of new to DSLRs, but I thought it was just the opposite of what was stated above. On a Full Frame DSLR a 10-20mm lens is 10-20mm, NOT 15-30mm.

On a Nikon D3100 cropped sensor, you use the 1.5 factor because the sensor is smaller and only sees the center part of the image produced by the lens. This center part makes it seem like you are "zoomed in," so the lens on a cropped sensor has a simulated LONGER focal length.

So, the 10-20mm on the Nikon D3100 would appear to function as if it was a 15-30mm. Is this right, or did I learn this backwards/wrong??

David
Ok folks, I'm kind of new to DSLRs, but I thought ... (show quote)


Yes and no. The field of view would be equal to that of a 15-30 mm on a full frame, but the depth of field calculations would still be based on 10-20 mm.
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Feb 19, 2012 19:55:15   #
I only shoot in RAW, and shoot at f/13. Leaving the white balance in Cloudy is a good starting point, but can easily be changed later. Also I spot meter on the brightest area, and watch the histogram and leave the preview in blinkie mode, to make exposure corrections. Bracket, Bracket, Bracket.
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Feb 19, 2012 19:51:13   #
That is why all my posts are low res, <100 ppi. You can see, but not get a decent print.
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Feb 19, 2012 19:44:57   #
It is a sign of the times, 9 out of 10 do not take pride in their work any more, they just want your $$. This is not only true with "professional" photographers. Auto repair, home improvement, customer service, doctors, teachers all come up short. That is why referrals are so important.
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Feb 19, 2012 19:33:13   #
ShakyShutter wrote:
I think it has a different meaning when working on layers in CS5.

No, the method was developed originally to increase the depth of field for images obtained from a microscope, and now has found its way into photography. Also called Helicon, after the processing software. It is most useful for images shot with a longer focal length lens on a close object. I use a free program called Combine ZM for processing, slow but does a great job.
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Feb 19, 2012 19:22:41   #
JMorris271 wrote:
That is really good to hear. I didn't want to have to buy another lens just yet.
Can you tell me what constitutes a lense being ULTRA Wide as opposed to being a wide angle lense?
Thanks again.


There was an article about this a month or 2 back in Outdoor Photographer. If I recall, it was a field of view of over 100 degrees, and on a Nikon DX, 10 mm focal length equates to 102 degrees. Enjoy the lens, it is rarely off my camera.
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