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Posts for: AdkHiker
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Mar 13, 2014 07:29:16   #
Mogul wrote:
You photos were copyrighted as soon as you took them. Ask your highly educated (probably tenured) instructor if he/she means your copyrights need to be registered? And if so, who is going to pay for the registration. By the way, if the school, a friend or a local charity pays for the registration, you STILL own the copyright - and your heir(s) will for 70 years after you are dead!


Exactly, you took it you own it. It's easier to prove if you can enter your copywriter when setting up your camera so it is written to the metadata. Even adding a signature to the photo serves to prove it is yours...sure it can be cropped out but you still can be protected
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Mar 13, 2014 07:21:22   #
rpavich wrote:
The flash is capable of flashing at any shutter speed.

Do you mean "slips below the sync speed"?

If that's what you mean, then you don't have to change to second curtain, but for people moving in flash pictures where there is a bit of smearing because the shutter is being "drug" (i.e. slowed down) then it looks more logical as the trails will be behind them instead of in front.

FYI: Some folks leave their camera's on 2nd curtain all of the time. At fast shutter speeds it doesn't matter and at slow ones it looks better.

But that's a personal preference.
The flash is capable of flashing at any shutter sp... (show quote)



Shouldn't High Speed sync be used rather than second curtain?
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Mar 13, 2014 03:35:49   #
Luggerbugs wrote:
First of all,thanks to everyone who has offered their suggestions and help.

This is just a thought and no more. I'd appreciate any comments or observations:

as I've previously mentioned, I have a Canon 430EX. If I was to get a previously owned 580EX mkii and another pre-owned 430EX, could I set-up the 580Ex mkii as a master and the two 430EXs as slaves. If so, would I need any other devises to make this set-up work or am I completely barking up the wrong tree.

My suggestion...use your existing 430 with your camera and a off camera ETTL or better a Sync cord. This is the less expensive way to go for now. Reading those books and watching the recommended videos play with one flash and available light.

Good luck and show us your results

Many thanks, Bob
First of all,thanks to everyone who has offered th... (show quote)
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Mar 13, 2014 03:33:59   #
Luggerbugs wrote:
First of all,thanks to everyone who has offered their suggestions and help.

This is just a thought and no more. I'd appreciate any comments or observations:

as I've previously mentioned, I have a Canon 430EX. If I was to get a previously owned 580EX mkii and another pre-owned 430EX, could I set-up the 580Ex mkii as a master and the two 430EXs as slaves. If so, would I need any other devises to make this set-up work or am I completely barking up the wrong tree.

My suggestion...use your existing 430 with your camera and a off camera ETTL or better a Sync cord. This is the less expensive way to go for now. Reading those books and watching the recommended videos play with one flash and available light.

Good luck and show us your results

Many thanks, Bob
First of all,thanks to everyone who has offered th... (show quote)
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Mar 12, 2014 05:59:59   #
Take a look at this one....it is a nice flash. Yonguno YN560 III is is a manual flash but it is a great flash Also look for radio triggers from the same manufacturer... I think they are around $32 for a pair. You can put one on you camera one on the 430 and. The YN 560 already has a transceiver built into it so it will fire along with it. More it can act as as slave to the 460. Buying an off camera ETTL cord for your 430 will give you greater off camera options.

I own the 580 EXiii and recently bought the YN 560 III. I am pleased with the purchase. They make other models that offer ETTL for about twice the price but unless you are shooting at varying distances they are not needed. Besides you have the 430 for that.

Don't be shy about using manual...you will learn flash photograph quicker

Here is a Speedlighters Handbook by Syl Arena will be helpful as well.
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Mar 10, 2014 08:13:10   #
jerryc41 wrote:
Finally! They key to great pictures: cheap camera with a Canon lens.


Be nice Jerry
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Mar 8, 2014 08:03:50   #
AdkHiker wrote:
Agreed. One can do a good deal in LR especially if the photographs are taken in RAW. Here is a site that one might think that he takes post processing over the top. Since he invites you to download his files and follow along with his tutorials. Doing this gives you control of the sliders and amount of processing. They are fun


http://photoserge.com
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Mar 8, 2014 08:03:28   #
jerryc41 wrote:
If by "editing," you mean light/dark, sharpening, etc., Lightroom is excellent. It sells for a little over $100, and it seems that there are sales occasionally.
http://www.amazon.com/Adobe-65215211-Photoshop-Lightroom-5/dp/B00CH6ATMO

It can be very complex and confusing, or you can do what I usually do, and work your way down the right column: White Balance, Exposure, Tint, Highlights, etc.

You can buy lots of videos and books about how to use it, or you can use the free Adobe TV videos. Lightroom has gotten very popular over the years, probably because it can do so much for so much less than the cost of Photoshop.

http://tv.adobe.com/

There are many alternatives, as members will tell you. Very often, you can download and use one for 30 days. The problem with that approach is that it will take you some time to become familiar with a new program, so will you really be able to compare programs by using the free download feature? I don't know.
If by "editing," you mean light/dark, sh... (show quote)


Agreed. One can do a good deal in LR especially if the photographs are taken in RAW. Here is a site that one might think that he takes post processing over the top. Since he invites you to download his files and follow along with his tutorials. Doing this gives you control of the sliders and amount of processing. They are fun
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Mar 7, 2014 07:23:52   #
That is good advice. We don't know I'd the lens will open to 2.8. If the widest stop is 5.6 increase the camera to subject distance so that the background falls outside of the Depth of Field Range. If the lens is a zoom increase it to max with the apperature at the widest (5.6) then the smallest (22). You should see a marked difference

Good luck
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Feb 22, 2014 18:19:27   #
Try using manual on the camera. Set it to f11 for maximum sharpness. Set a speedlite to manual an f 11 and place it with a diffuser at the recommended distance (preferably off camera) then meter off of the window and adjust your shutter speed until you have the proper exposure... You should end up with a good exposure of your subject and the outside

I am sure Capt C can expand on this
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Feb 22, 2014 18:08:08   #
Boone wrote:
I don't know about the TTL Nikon setup, but I have four of the 560 III's. Great build quality, great performance. Very good optical slave. I use the Yongnuo 603 triggers with this unit and recently triggered the flash units from one hillside to another. The distance was (using a range finder) 268yards. They never missed a beat. Great buy! That's my 2 cents. Thanks, Boone.

PS: There are lots of guys here that I am sure will answer your Nikon TTL Question.



I just purchased the same set up. I also use the Canon 580 Ex II ant the 480EX II. I bought this setup on a recommendation from Improve Photography. And find the flash and triggers to work well. The speedlite has a built in radio receiver. I have been using it in manual...the GN is 58 when zoomed to 105mm but it seems strong enough. For the price I think it is a good purchase and using the flash in manual is not a bad thing as long as your camera to subject distance stays fairly constant
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Feb 17, 2014 05:53:21   #
tatebigpapa wrote:
I have a crop body. Canon T3i. This is entry level for me. I'm into landscape & sky photography. I was out hiking yesterday and found it frustrating that I couldn't capture a wide enough field.

PS, don't look down on me for my crop body. Had to start somewhere :-)



Nobody should be don on you...I use both the crop sensor and the FF. My suggestion buy the EF not only for this lens but for all other purchases incase you ever add a FF to your camera gear. A FF is not always my camera of choice
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Feb 15, 2014 07:58:29   #
Good one
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Feb 15, 2014 07:54:59   #
henryp wrote:
472065880
Thank you for your order and this feedback. We regret your dissatisfaction. The issue is not that we "would not," but that we could not. The current lower price is due to a Nikon USA rebate. When a US-warranted lens is sold with the lower rebated price, Nikon USA reimburses us for about 80% of the rebate amount. When we honor a lower rebate price for a transaction not otherwise eligible for the rebate, the whole rebate amount comes out of our pocket. That turns a sale with a reasonable profit into one with a loss.

Had you purchased a US (Nikon USA) lens we could have executed what we call a "virtual return," handling the return and resale at the rebated price electronically, but you bought the "IMP" or "grey market," version (http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/838798-GREY/). There is never any rebate on a "grey market" product. The ONLY way for you to get a Nikon AF-S 85mm f/1.8G Lens (our NI8518G) with the lower rebate price is to return the lens you have and have it exchanged for the US-warranted version (http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/838798-REG/). Since you already have our return authorization this should be a simple matter. The price difference would be handled as a refund.
472065880 br Thank you for your order and this fee... (show quote)



That's B&H for you....a great place to do business
:thumbup:
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Feb 8, 2014 07:29:17   #
jerryc41 wrote:
If your camera can shoot in raw, it can probably shoot in raw and JPEG. You have the JPEG for quick use and easy processing, and you have the raw for more extensive and more detailed processing.



Good Jerry....more since the stated "Newbie" shooting both formats offer the advantage to bringing the RAW file close to (and beyond) the JPEG in post processing...in a way it serves as a learning model.
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