Shooting people indoors in front of window
Feb 20, 2014 13:58:29 #
Whenever possible I try to get people/groups of people away from windows or other bright backlighting, but sometimes have to take the shot. What is the easiest way to do this. I am now using 1/4 flash and spot metering. People are okay but background highlight are still pretty much blown out. I also try pre-focusing on the area to the side of the window but this doesn't seem to work.
Feb 20, 2014 14:02:25 #
Pepper
Loc: Planet Earth Country USA
GayleSalamone wrote:
Whenever possible I try to get people/groups of people away from windows or other bright backlighting, but sometimes have to take the shot. What is the easiest way to do this. I am now using 1/4 flash and spot metering. People are okay but background highlight are still pretty much blown out. I also try pre-focusing on the area to the side of the window but this doesn't seem to work.
Is it the flash being reflected off the window that's causing you problems?
Feb 20, 2014 14:05:39 #
I don't know what kind of camera your shooting with but some cameras have a "backlite" mode for shooting subjects where the main light sorce is behind. You can also your flash.
Feb 20, 2014 14:10:59 #
GayleSalamone wrote:
Whenever possible I try to get people/groups of people away from windows or other bright backlighting, but sometimes have to take the shot. What is the easiest way to do this. I am now using 1/4 flash and spot metering. People are okay but background highlight are still pretty much blown out. I also try pre-focusing on the area to the side of the window but this doesn't seem to work.
Gayle, you need more light on the people. You need to balance your light output with the amount of light coming through the window. When that is correct, the people will be perfectly lit and the outside will look perfect as well.
Chimp until the exterior is correct, the people will be in silhouette. Then start adding flash power without changing any settings, untill the people are perfect as well. You will need to be on full manual to do that. So it will take a while.
If its a grab shot, you'll need to shoot it with the flash on ittl, probably on center weight metering.
Why don't you reverse tha, and put them with your back to the window instead? Good luck
SS
Feb 20, 2014 14:13:58 #
No, flash not reflecting off window. Usual situation is large groups in restaurants or other indoor places where I cannot get them to move to better lighting.
Feb 20, 2014 14:16:07 #
Feb 20, 2014 14:25:53 #
GayleSalamone wrote:
Whenever possible I try to get people/groups of people away from windows or other bright backlighting, but sometimes have to take the shot. What is the easiest way to do this. I am now using 1/4 flash and spot metering. People are okay but background highlight are still pretty much blown out. I also try pre-focusing on the area to the side of the window but this doesn't seem to work.
That's what you will get when the dynamic range is extreme...you generally can't have both...but this may help.
IF you want to see what's outside AND you want the room/people to be exposed well....then spot meter or just meter for the outside ONLY.
Then set your camera until you have a good exposure on the outside (the room will be dark or black) and then just add flash until the room exposure is raised up to match the outside!
EDITED to ADD: I see that sharpshooter suggested the same thing.
Feb 20, 2014 14:39:58 #
You can always fake it!
You need at least two flashes to do this. The setup for the following shot is as follows.
1) Speedlight outside the window wireless trigger. Fakes the sun coming through the window can caused banding on the couch and arm. The sun was not bright enough to be a light source So flash was used
3) A second Speelight(In a soft box hybrid) inside and just to my left for the main light. This creates soft beautiful light on the face.
This is a little more advanced setup but can be used no matter if light is coming through the window or not.
Note: I killed all ambient light by using a fast shutter speed. I also used TTL. So i didn't have to meter.
TTL is a mode you put your speed light in where it determines the subject exposure. Works good most of the time.
Ambient light is the surrounding natural light. You speed up your shutter in camera to cut down on ambient.
You need at least two flashes to do this. The setup for the following shot is as follows.
1) Speedlight outside the window wireless trigger. Fakes the sun coming through the window can caused banding on the couch and arm. The sun was not bright enough to be a light source So flash was used
3) A second Speelight(In a soft box hybrid) inside and just to my left for the main light. This creates soft beautiful light on the face.
This is a little more advanced setup but can be used no matter if light is coming through the window or not.
Note: I killed all ambient light by using a fast shutter speed. I also used TTL. So i didn't have to meter.
TTL is a mode you put your speed light in where it determines the subject exposure. Works good most of the time.
Ambient light is the surrounding natural light. You speed up your shutter in camera to cut down on ambient.
Fake window light
Feb 20, 2014 14:42:55 #
PalePictures wrote:
You can always fake it! br br You need at least t... (show quote)
This may not answer the OP's question but it's a great illustration of a neat concept...and a very nice image to boot.
Feb 20, 2014 14:46:15 #
rpavich wrote:
This may not answer the OP's question but it's a great illustration of a neat concept...and a very nice image to boot.
I was a little off topic just wanted to throw another idea.
You can always work with what you have..
Point well taken.
Feb 21, 2014 06:00:07 #
I do not know for sure if I understand but it seems as if you are having problems shooting people backlighted. It also seems as if you want good detail in the background and the people you photograph.
If my reasoning is correct what I do is to take a meter reading of the ambient light (background) and set my camera for that exposure. Then I use the flash in TTL and cut down the flash exposure by 1 stop.
It is very possible this can be done with TTL-BL but I am used to control my flash exposure as I have explained.
If my reasoning is correct what I do is to take a meter reading of the ambient light (background) and set my camera for that exposure. Then I use the flash in TTL and cut down the flash exposure by 1 stop.
It is very possible this can be done with TTL-BL but I am used to control my flash exposure as I have explained.
Feb 21, 2014 11:11:43 #
I have no idea what TTL is. I have an Olympus E-620. Perhaps TTL is something Canon or Nikon cameras have.
Feb 21, 2014 11:14:32 #
Well thought out set up for this picture. Made me think a little about the inside pictures I have taken using outside natural light. Results in your picture are very good.
Feb 21, 2014 11:17:57 #
GayleSalamone wrote:
I have no idea what TTL is. I have an Olympus E-620. Perhaps TTL is something Canon or Nikon cameras have.
I guess Olympus has their own proprietary wireless flash system
Quote:
Does the E-620 support the Olympus wireless RC fla... (show quote)
Feb 21, 2014 11:18:22 #
I enjoyed these tips. I usually use center weight metering and that works well enough for a quick grab shot.
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