just go to the set up (wrench) menu. scroll down to " non cpu lens data " and save your max f stop and focal length for your lens. You will have to do this for every non- cpu lens that you will use (I think 9 slots max) and manually change it for each lens every time you use it if you want the correct read out and correct EXIF data recorded. There are no electronics in the lens and your camera doesn't know what's being attached

It's a simple modification, however the location of the ground in relief is critical for the camera to accurately detect the lens opening for the meter. I am a professional handyman with over 30 years experience, yet I would not do it myself. Unless you are extremely careful and steady with your hands and have proper tools ,you will likely ruin the lens/ lens value e.i. the example posted above. It should be a $25 - 40 job to have it done properly.

So, can you play the guitar?
Your lenses are fine. Just forget the book.
The only way you'll learn to photograph better is by taking lots of pictures and studying composition and lighting. Compare your pictures with the ones you admire. Try to understand how they were composed. Don't obsess over the technical details. Pick a subject that you are interested in. Take your camera everywhere ( small lens is usually better for that). Be consistent . Be diligent. Narrow your focus. Specialize. Repeat .
Segovia only played a classical guitar, right?
Ansel Adams is primarily famous for his 8x10 B&W images of Yosemite and the Zone System , correct?
Rembrandt is famous for what? Rembrandt lighting?
Cartier Bresson is famous for B&W street photography. One camera, one 50mm normal lens?
Narrow your focus.
Specialize.
Learn one thing well.

Very nice!
So basically a 3 frame blend.
I've been doing this for years with my D7000.
So pray tell, why do I need a Fuji?

I used to shoot raw + jpeg because I like to use the Nikon picture presets as part of my workflow, well it turns out you can still apply them do your raw file in NX 2. So there is no longer any need for jpegs from camera

Nikon picture presets, such as: landscape, portrait, standard,vivid are often all you may want. If your camera is d7000 or higher, you may also upload other presets,film simulations, create, save own presets in your camera. NX2 allows you the option to see the results on a big screen, also to change the preset to a different one afterwards if you desire, if shot as RAW. I use it sometimes as a part of my workflow before further modification in other editors ( NX2 is rather basic for editing)

Good light is most important,
Then technique,
Then lens quality,
Finally the camera.

My$15, 6mp Nikon D70 takes great photos with 18-55 kit lens. The key ingredient is me 🌞

Rather than Elements, try Zoner 17. Jpeg only is completely free, while the paid version does RAW conversion, perspective controls etc. I use it semi professionally- no complaints . Only about $30 for full version. If you catch it on sale $17
Cannon 55 -250 is not sharp, you won't be happy for long. 18- 135 is very good, razor sharp . 18 -55 is mediocre - ok to start with.

If you're interested, I have an older dlr, a D70 Nikon with a newer 18-55 kit lens, in good condition. CF card and charger included. I'd let it go for 110.oo + shipping.
It can use all the older inexpensive screwdrive AF lenses, is backward compatible with almost all manual focus Nikon lenses back to 1970's , and to top it off a little known feature, high speed flash sync up to 1/500 sec with any flash. Nothing better to learn on than a real camera. PM me if interested

People learn in different ways. Some are great at following written instructions, others by watching the skill performed, still others by doing it and experimenting.
Me, I hate stumbling in the dark. I have no ambition to learn it myself. I am not great at following written directions. I am not fantastic at learning by watching. What I need is personal 1 on 1 instruction, a combination of watching and doing it myself.
Please find proper instruction for your style of learning. The rest is easy
I hope this is helpful
- Peter

Where can I get film processed for $2.oo a roll?

In the early 80s, I couldn't afford to shoot much Colour, but from what I remember ektachrome tended toward blue, fujichrome towards green and yellow, Kodachrome more towards red. Please correct me if I'm wrong. Personally I always liked the ektachrome the way it looked but apparently I am alone on this?

A Prime makes me more selective of the subject because of my limitation, it makes me think. A super zoom to me is just a giant point and shoot camera. Sure you can get some great shots with it, but in my opinion at least you are not as focused as when you are limited to a prime lens. Yes, you will miss many opportunities but not as many as you would think because you will be focused on what you can do

Trough trial and error I've managed to assemble a very complete DX kit of (in my opinion) great quality. Everything from 8mm fisheye to 300mm.
10-20 Sigma, 17-50 2.8 ,50- 135 2.8 55-300. 2 bodies and a giant carry all camera bag. There is a tool for every job. I have found the 17-50 most universal all-round lens for Dx.
However zooms make me lazy and less focused, less creative. I take my best,most creative photos when limited to a single prime. Usually a 28mm on Dx .

I replaced the screen on my D7000 with a $20 one from eBay, (split Image +microprism). Focusing with manual lenses is now perfect.
And no, it is not as bright as a discontinued $100 Katzeye , but good enough