Well Said, not only you but others on this thread. I haven't looked at any of the dates, but I agree with those that have gone digital. "Methods change, but art remains the same..." Claude Monet. That may not be the exact quote, but close enough!
In my opinion, sometimes people tend to overthink things. MoPic frame rate is 24 fps and video is 30 fps. So, staying with the 24 fps (because I was a MoPic photographer in my early days in the Air Force) every 24 frames you shoot is equal to one second of viewing time. So, in reference to my last post, overshoot, that is a short interval between shots, you won't regret it. Easier to shorten it up the it is to lengthen it. Good luck!
Here is what I have done. I did a time lapse on the construction of our cabin in Colorado. Mt intervalometer (homebuilt) was set for one shot every 15 seconds. It would run for about eight hours shooting .jpg files. That went on for about 30 days. It didn't do to bad.
After I bought my Canon EOS t-6, still no built in intervalometer, but I did purchase an external one for about $30. I did a time lapse of a Christmas cactus blooming here in Arizona. I set the interval for one second, used .jpg files again, using a 64gb card the amount of frames available was 9999. I just set it up on a tripod, framed my shot turned everything on and let it do its thing. As far as exposure went, I used aperture priority and auto focus. It ran for eight hours non-stop and it was a good thing as there were only about 30-45 seconds of usable frames of the actual blooming. Don't be afraid to "over shoot", the more frames the smoother the final product. I then assembled everything in Apple's Final Cut Pro X. Hope this helped, and good luck, I'd like to know ho things turned out for you>
Just a quick follow up, it turns out my slots for the miter gauge are not exactly parallel! with my somewhat crude way of measuring, or checking for them being parallel, they seem to be out just enough to cause a problem. I'd guesstimate less than 1/16th". Like I said a guesstimate. So I have moved onto using my miter saw to try and cut frames. I've used a triangle to set the 45 deg as opposed to using the detent, and Ive got a board setup with whatever else I need. So far so good. Plan on trying it out today.
I realize his is a fairly “old” thread, but I’ve got to throw my $20 (.02 cents adjusted for inflation). Like Bill, I’ve been in digital photography pretty much from the beginning. I still have my old cameras and once in awhile I’ll find one that catches my eye for some reason and add it to my collection. I helped drag the Army kicking and screaming into the digital age. At first I too was skeptical of going digital. It was really kind of a pain. Then we moved up from Aldus Photostyler to Adobe photoshop, upgraded to better computers, we started with 286’s and windows 3.x. I also had a complete darkroom in the basement and could do both color and b&w. I am and have been fully com mitted to digital and would never go back to film. It’s just not part of my life anymore! My biggest issue is I keep getting “lost in the weeds”, but that is part of the fun. I think the biggest thing that turned me fully on was the simple fact I could do all the different things with digital, that I could not do in the conventional world, either because I couldn’t afford the specialized equipment or the processes involved were beyond my limited capabilities. And once again I find myself starting to wander so I’ll say “goodnight Gracie”.
The slides will move the entire length of the slot smoothly with, no binding, until they are attached to the base. Attached to the base the entire setup will move about halfway on the out feed then bind up. Still working on alternative solutions. Thanks to all for the help and advice.
Actually it's heavy duty aluminum. It's a Kobalt product purchased from Lowe's. It seems to be built different than the ordinary portable table saw. I won't go into all the differences here, but the main reason I bought this particular brand is the slots seemed to be a little tighter than the others that I looked at. I've tried the double sided tape and the super glue thing to no avail. Right now I've removed one runner, I have not had the time to try out the accuracy of the cuts, when I do I'll post the results. Thanks for all the info and ideas.
Blade is fully retracted.
I've seen a past post from Jerry about building a cross cut sled for his table saw. Here is my experience for what it's worth. I've been trying to put one together to make picture frames. Watched a bunch of YouTube videos, seems simple enough, especially if you have fully equipped wood shop! Which I don't. Anyway, ordered a pair of "sliders" from amazon to fit the slots in my saw where the miter gauge would go. Had to do some sanding to make them easily slide without binding up, no problem they slide easy enough and don't wobble. Next step is to put together the base and fasten everything together. The issue is when I fasten the sliders to the bottom of my plywood and try it out on the saw about half way the sliders bind up. I've tried several different approaches, with the same result. My only conclusion is the slots are far enough out of being parallel that it is causing the binding problem. Of course my saw isn't a high dollar, precision tool that is being used in the videos. So I removed one slider for the time being. I'll follow up with the results after I get things together and have attempted to make a couple of frames. Keep Clicking!
I have on occasion, I find a lot of interesting things to shoot in the produce section. You should try it sometime.
Just an aside, may or may not be relevant. But is interesting from my pint of view. When I was active duty Air Force I was a MoPic photographer. My first duty station was Holloway AFB, NM. We did high speed work. We used cameras that up to 500fps, with our mainstay running at 240 fps, weighed 12 lbs, precision machined and cost a few thousand bucks apiece. My iPhone 11 is capable of the same frame rate, way cheaper and a hell of a lot lighter. Even these pale next to the high speed video cameras capable of a million fps! Like I said I find it interesting.
I’ve seen where people have removed the transformer and built a spot welder. I’ve wanted to strip the magnets out of the magnetron.
"Technique changes, but art remains the same." Claude Monet
Well said, put up or shutup!